rec.autos.vw [W] GENERAL, FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTION (FAQ)

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rec.autos.vw [W] GENERAL, FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTION (FAQ)

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service literature may not be correct.

90-? Passat:
Rear window regulators. Service bulletin exists. See recall SW.

90-? Passat:
Mysterious gauge fluctuations on Passats and Foxes...
There is a VW service bulletin for the Passat showing a procedure to fix this
problem.
The voltage regulator is not usually bad, but they frequently is not well
soldered. The bulletin explains how to re-solder thge gerulator to the
circuit board. Since I mentioned that I knew of this bulletin,
my friendly dealer called VW and got the repair authorized under warranty...

90 Passat/Auto:
Car won't start: Replace transmission switch.

90-92 Corrado
87-88 Scirocco
88-92 Jetta
88 GTI
90-92 GTI & Passat
V28-91-01: No Start/Hard Start/Poor running
Problem: High tension arcing on distributor caps resulting in poor
starting and poor running.

90-91 Corrado (PG Engine)
V28-92-07: Cannot attain High Speed (supersedes V28-91-02)
Fix: Check knock sensor & replace if needed

90 Corrado
V24-91-01: Engine does not start at first attempt
Fix: Cut wire to digifant unit terminal 23 in ECU plug.

91 Corrado SLC/VR6, Passat
V34-92-04: 5 Speed Transmission 02A Gearshift Mechanism Modified
All transmissions as of 03 09 1 have the new mechanism (which includes
the counter weight). Old cars except for the G60 can be upgraded.

93-94: Jetta /// GL
Moonroof rattle. There is a TSB out on this.

CA DIESEL FUEL:
The environmentally friendly diesel fuel being sold in CA since Oct 93
is rumored to destroy the injector pump seals.
Call: Califronia Trucking Association, Mike Thomas, (916) 373-3534
who is collecting claims.
California Air Resources Board 1-800-952-5588 leave your name address,
etc and a complaint about what happened to your vehicle.
Gov. Wilson's office (916) 445-2841

In California, I've just read
that Univ of Dayton (Ohio) scientist has finally figured out what went
wrong with the Low-Aromatics-Diesel introduced in California. Apparently
the lack of armomatics and sulfur allowed oxidation of the fuel (when
meeting up with heat and oxygen) to form peroxide. This peroxide wasn't
detected in the fuel, but was found on the damaged oil rings. All major
refiners in Calif. are now blending anti-oxidant additives.
(per U.S. Oil Week 6/06/94)

Today's newspaper (9/3/94) reported that legislation to repay those of
us who have lost diesel injector pumps from the 'new and improved' diesel
fuel, has been signed by Gov Re_Pete Wilson.
Reimbursment of up to $450 bucks for cars and $550 bucks for trucks
will be alloted to those who have suffered damages.
Details on how to get reimbusrsed will be published in the newspapers later
this year. The Senate and Assembly passed the bill in August.

March 1, 1995 is the deadline for filing a claim with the State of
California for replacement or reimbursement for damages to your
diesel pumps. Trucks are entitled up to $1,000, cars are $450.
Call 1-800-272-2667 to get a form sent to you.

TSB ACCESS
==========

The Technical Service Bulletins are now to be had ONLINE for a small
fee from ALLDATA:

/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
For FREE trial access to the World's Largest Database of
Vehicle Repair and Maintenance Information, including detailed
information about any of the above bulletins, visit ALLDATA at:
WWW : http://www.alldata.tsb.com
GOPHER: gopher.alldata.tsb.com
or e-mail Theresa@alldata.com for more information.
\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/

NOTE that some car parts supermarkets allow you to retrieve and
print out this data for free as well.

Here is a sample of the free index available through WWW:

JETTA /// TSB
-------------
[jeremyh@ftp.amcc.com]

Year: 1994
Make: Volkswagen
Model: Jetta III
Engine: 4-1984cc 2.0L SOHC

JAN 94 1. OBD BASIC ENGINE SETTING AFTER DISCONNECTING BATTERY
JAN 94 2. POOR DRIVEABILITY
DEC 93 3. FRONT AND REAR VW EMBLEMS-REPLACING
DEC 93 4. WINTER TIRES/SNOW CHAINS
DEC 93 5. VACUUM DOOR LOCKS
NOV 93 6. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 096, VALVE BODY REPLACEMENT
NOV 93 7. HORN PAD REMOVAL
NOV 93 8. INDUSTRIAL FALLOUT, REPAIRING PAINT FINISH
NOV 93 9. GOLD PLATED TERMINAL REPLACEMENT
NOV 93 10. CLEANER FOR INTERIOR SURFACES
NOV 93 11. ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR (ECT) REPLACEMENT
NOV 93 12. IDLE SPEED HUNTS WHEN COLD
NOV 93 13. REAR TIRE WEAR
NOV 93 14. TROUBLE CODES 00533 & 2231 (ISC NOISE DAMPER CLOGGED)
NOV 93 15. WATER LEAK AT ENGINE BULKHEAD SEALING PROCEDURE
NOV 93 16. GUIDELINES FOR WARRANTY REPAIRS
NOV 93 17. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION REPAIR
OCT 93 18. LOANER CAR CHARGES FOR PAINT/CORROSION WARRANTY REPAIRS
OCT 93 19. M.Y. 1994 WARRANTY COVERAGE INFORMATION
OCT 93 20. NEW 16-PIN DATA LINK CONNECTOR - ACCESSING/CONNECTING
SEP 93 21. RADIO SECURITY CODE STICKER, NEW LOCATION
SEP 93 22. 1,000-MILE CONSULTATION PROCEDURES FOR 1994 MODELS
SEP 93 23. 1994 PDI PROCEDURE AND MAINTENANCE/LUBRICATION SCHEDULES

>>>>MORE???? Pls provide recall campaign & number & a 1 line description

Q: I heard there is a recall on my Golf/Jetta/GTI heater core. What do I do?
A: The recall affects only '85-'90 cars of the above models, although older A1
VWs have had heater cores fail also. For some time, VW was replacing cores
under a 'goodwill program', and now the recall is official.
VW recommends that if you are experiencing any of the typical symptoms,
take your car to the nearest authorized VW dealer.
If you paid to have the work before, AND you can prove it, they will
reimburse you.

Q: What are the symptoms of a leaky/bad heater core?
A: A smell of coolant coming from your vents when the heater is on, an unusual
amount of fogging of the windshield, and in some extreme cases, coolant
leaking into the inside of the car, burning the occupants.

There are many cases in which the front passenger or the driver
himself were hurt. First known cases in Japan, VW recalled the
questionable cars (only in Japan!). Later many cases in Germany,
too, but VW waited with a recall since Feb. (?) 1996.

Q: My A/C is smelly after use, especially during humid summer months?
A: A kit to alleviate this from (313)-774-4300, which removes mildew from
evaporators. Of course first you should try spraying 1/4 can of Lysol down
the fresh air entry vent, WITH THE DOORS AND WINDOWS OPEN!!

Q: My radio keeps on playing when the car is turned off?
A: This is normal. Most VWs sold up to 1992 will play with the car turned off.
You can change that by using the switched power wire instead of the "always
hot" wire. Newer VWs have found a compromise: The radio will play after the
car is shut off as long as the key remains in the ignition.
NOTE however...this will probably NOT work with coded radios.

Q: My oxygen sensor light has come on. What am I supposed to do?
A: Change the oxygen sensor (aka Lambda Sensor), and reset the oxygen sensor
light. Oxygen sensors are to be changed every 30k/60k miles depending
on your car. Many claim that the newer heated 3 wire ox. sensor can last a
lot longer than the designated 30/60 k miles. This is probably true, but
when it does go, your car will run very rich!
Some have reported poor running conditions, rough idle and significant loss
of power as well (recent news thread on r.a.t).
A bad O2 sensor will increase the catalytic converter temperature
significantly and could lead the substrate to loosen from the casing
(happened to me). You will hear a distinct rattling from your exhaust, and
eventually clog the exhaust system.
Note, engine temp will also increase, risking engine damage and possible
fire.
This increases back pressure and decreases the car's power to the point
where it may not sustain highway speeds.
Again depending on your model, a cat. conv. can be very expensive (US$400-
US$800 in my case), while the ox. sensor is about US$100. If you decide not
to replace the sensor, do follow Bentley's procedure periodically to check
whether it's still ok!

Note from M Sirota: I found a 16V converter at Wolf Sport for $365. I've
actually found a new 16V converter at Techtonics for only $125, but they
say it sucks.

Q: How do I reset the oxygen sensor light?
A: The oxygen sensor light is attached to a small odometer which trips a
switch every 30/60k miles. To turn the oxy light off, you have to reset
that odometer. VW has two locations for this unit: Either somewhere along
the speedometer cable, or as part of the instrument cluster.

A2 Jettas & Golfs: Remove the coolant reservoir to locate the box with the
white recessed switch. Push it in far until you hear a satisfying click.
You should only need to push once. The "box" is black, and the speedometer
cable passes through it.

Q: I have a Clock, not a tach, can I get a "new" instrument cluster?
[blu@cellar.org]
A: Yes! Any cluster from just about any late VW (Golf/Jetta2/Sirocco2), will
work with any other cluster. There were a few changes through the years,
but the speedo, tach, temp, fuel, and warning lights (ex. Upshift, and OXS)
will work. I installed a cluster from an 85 Golf in my 89 and it works just
fine. A "new" used unit can be installed in a Golf/Jetta in about 45 min,
with minimal hand tools. The new gauge cluster will plug right into the
existing hardware. It might make life a bit easier if you remove the
steering wheel, however, its not necessary.
While it *might* seem simple to just replace the clock with a tach, its
not, this is fairly complex, and time consuming. I know you will "loose"
your original mileage with the "new" used speedo, but trust me, its just
simpler to do.

Q: What's a good car cover for my car? Will it scratch or dull my paint?
A: Generally you are looking for a cover which is soft where it contacts
the car paint, resists water from penetrating, breathes (trapped
moisture dulls paint), and is mold resistant.
Car covers made out of "Evolution 3" made by Kimberly Clark, or Technalon
material seem to be the current favorites and satisfy the above. They do
get wet with heavy rain or when the water repellent stuff wears off after a
couple of washes.
(For a sample call in the US (800) 424 80 00, code= 44-12-36).
They are also pretty bulky, and if wet, heavy.
I hose my covers down every couple of months and occasionally wash them in
an industrial washer. Apply Scotch Guard to make it somewhat water
repellent again.

Nylon covers are next to worthless.
To minimize paint scratches, keep your car clean, keep the cover clean, and
"roll" rather than slide the cover on.
I have also found that rolling it on and of is by far the easiest way to
cover the car. Install from the front.
Get a lock, and the cover then serves as reasonable theft deterrent as
well.

Q: Whenever it rains, the carpet in my VW gets wet?
A: There are two sources of this problem: The front of the car, and the rear.
Front: Rust around windshield, antenna wire or other holes not plugged
right. Better fix this because if it leaks at the driver's side it may
short out your fuse box. Also check all the rubber grommets that plug the
holes.

[eldred@csi.jpl.nasa.gov] There are 2 water drain holes in the area just
below the hood vents forward of the windshield which tend to get clogged
with leaves. Make sure these are clear. If the water doesn't drain fast
enough it will come through the vent air intake.

[From finnegan@navo.navy.mil:]
A break in the plastic drip shield which runs across the top of the
firewall under the hood can allow copious amounts of water to flow into
the fresh air intake vent. Replace the shield.

Rear: Water leaks resulting in large puddles in the rear seat footwells are
generally caused by poor seals against the door windows, and broken seal
on the door liners.
The window seals are easily replaceable. To replace the seal inside the
door, you have to remove the inner door panel, which is quite easy as well.
Glue a thick sheet of plastic between the door frame and the door panel.

See tech tips for more detail

From Jens Knickmeyer: Every time I found water puddling in the car just in front of the drivers
seat, the seals inside the door were defective. I had this problem
on several cars (3 Polos, 1 Audi 80, 2 Golf). Thank heaven only
the Polos were my cars!

Q: My back up lights don't work anymore, but the bulbs are ok!
A: Most likely your back up light switch in the transmission is broken. In
some cars it will also disable the upshift indicator. According to
rgolen@smucs1.umassd.edu, short shift kits reduce the longevity of these
switches to 3-4 months.

IT'S A FEATURE NOT A BUG!
=========================

Q: During hard cornering my inner rear wheel lifts. What's wrong? Is this
bad?
A: This is normal behavior in all A-type (and probably other) VW's, and for
that matter many other cars as well.
VW dials in a lot of rear roll stiffness to reduce understeer.
This with the limited rear wheel shock/spring travel distance
causes the rear inner wheel to be lifted during hard cornering.
It does not reduce performance much because the inner rear wheel
has very little load at that point.
Many other cars have the same feature to some degree or another.
If you think a Porsche 911 will fix the problem, look closely,
they lift their inner front wheel during hard cornering.

Q: My VR6 equiped VW (Corrado, Passats) rattles in idle, but the sound
goes away when I push in the clutch!
Q: My VR6 equiped VW (Corrado, Passats) rattles when I take off
It sounds like "Krrrrrrr"
A: They all do that. According to Jens Knickmeyer:
This problem is well known at VW. The reason is the gear-box. The tooth
wheels (a pair for each gear) have too much space between the teeth
which results in the rattle. Nothing to worry about, there are other
cars with the same symptom (Polo-G40, Audi 100, VW LT28, ...)

Some reported similar problems with a heat shield ratteling
but in that case the sound will be independent of whether you
push the clutch in.

Q: The AC comes on when I turn on the defroster. What's wrong?
A: Sigh! Does anyone read the User's Manual anymore? The AC comes on to
eliminate moisture. Works real well too!

INTERCHANGING PARTS & TOOLS
===========================

Q: What VW parts are interchangeable between models & years? (This is for all
you junk-yard cats). Created on a suggestion by [dh3q@andrew.cmu.edu (Dan)]

A: General Rule:
All cars based on the same platform are mechanically similar. When the
engine is mostly the same, it'll share engine parts, exhaust, suspension,
transmission, brakes, rear axle beam, most electrical components, sway
bars. Different years may have different components, but the rule is
usually that G & J are about the same in one year while the S's and
Corrados are usually a bit ahead and occasionally share components found in
the next platform (e.g., The A2 based Corrados VR6/SLC have the A+
suspension found on A3 GTIs).

Note that in Europe the engine range is much larger than in NA, but
mechanically things are similar within the same engine range. Throughout
this document you will find other hints of interchangeabilities, for
example, look at the part numbers: S's have a lot of part numbers from R/Gs
(the second and third set of numbers are important), see also the list of
rims and wheels for interchangability. GTI/GLI rims are a nice upgrade for
most G & Js.

However the opposite is true as well...The same model of the same year may
have slightly different components. Essentially VW builds cars until they
run out of a particular batch of parts, or they make them for one region
but then send them elsewhere (e.g., Corrados sold with heated seats in
Southern California). Another example of this are radiators, don't ask what
radiator is supposed to be in your car because no one really knows...

A1: R=G I=Conv/S I & II/J I are all similar. Bodywise & interiorwise, the J
& R are most similar, except for the rear trunk, rear seats, & muffler. J's
used to have thicker sway bars, a good upgrade for an S & R. Final exhaust
sections also different. S's are bodywise & interiorwise different, struts
are different (?), mechanically things are laid out a tad different (air
filter). Convertibles share most with the R/G I, but later models have
similarities with S's (exhaust).

The Passat I/Dasher shares some mechanical parts with the other A1 cars
(e.g., 1600 engine), but otherwise shares more with the old Audi 80/Audi
Fox (NA). Note that the reverse is also true, some Audi 80/100 (4000/5000)
parts will fit in A1 VWs (e.g., the windshield washer canisters of a 5000 =
S). In Europe, the low end Audis share more mechanically with the high end
VWs, because they basically use the same engine block (1600/1800).
There are also some parts shared with Porsches, most notable the 924 & 944
series (locks, rack, steering (?)).

A2: G II/ J II/Corrado. The G & J are most similar, except for the obvious
differences. The dashes are very similar but there are some nuances like
the trim which is bolted in for J but snapped in on early US made Gs.
Corrados 16V (Europe) share the most with GTIs, but the G60s only share
some suspension components (rear axle beam). The SLC/VR6s don't share much
mechanical with other VWs but share a lot with the other C's (brakes,
interior & body). VR6 rims will not fit a G60.

Please add specific contributions:

Brakes: Most >81 A1/A2 VWs can be upgraded to newer calipers & rotors be it
in some cases with some additional modifications (VW&P/EuroCar has had a
bunch of article on that).

The biggest right now are those on the Corrados.

Cylinder Heads: Cylinder heads on 1.7 l A-1 cars from US '82.5 thru '84 are
interchangeable with earlier A-1 engines except a different tool must be
used to depress the lifters. GTI cylinder heads are incompatible.
[eldred@csi.jpl.nasa.gov]

Struts: R/G=J
Interior pieces: A lot will be interchangeable (R/G=J) but be careful a lot
of piece will look the same but won't fit.

Steering wheels are interchangeable up to 8/88? when they switched to a
finer spline. An adaptor
is used to make the wheels fit, so you can use any old wheel on a
newer car if you purchase this adaptor.

Alternators: Almost all are interchangeable, but some may require a
different harness. Usually go to a higher amperage, never lower. The 90A
are the current "hot ticket".

Starters are the same on the engines of one model of the A1/A2 cars.
Electrically no problems, just look at the mechanical requirements
before you go to the junk yard.

Q: Will Rabbit seats fit in a Scirocco?
A: Rabbit seats won't fit, the legs on the seat are too high. Try a junk yard
seat, or weld the adjusting mechanism to a height suitable to you.

Q: I need tool VW #xyz. Is there a suitable replacement?
A: Often yes. Here are some:

Remove grease cap from rear axle tool:
Adjustable pliers, screwdriver
Timing belt tensioner pulley tightening tool:
Bend a section of coat hanger into a U shape of the proper size for
the holes in the pulley. or (lousier) two nails & a screw driver.
Upper strut bolt tool:
Air impact wrench, or grab a socket with a vise grip with the allen key
through the top.
From [Ken_Tsai@qmgate.arc.nasa.gov]: The Oxygen Sensor Socket from Lisle
will work. The socket has a hex at the top so you can use a combination
wrench to loosen the strut nut while holding the center rod stationary
with a 6 or 7 mm allen wrench.
Spring Compressor:
ALL SUBSTITUTES ARE DANGEROUS! Buy the real thing for ~US$40.
Remove radio tool:
use a coat hanger, make 4 cuts, so each piece is a "U". Stick them in
the holes, and move the hanger pieces "out" to the left and right,
while pulling the radio out by the tape entrance.

Remove Valve Adjustment Shims:
For changing valve shims, a valve depressor is necessary, but the funny
special pliers are not. All that is needed is a small "jeweler's"
screwdriver. File the blade until it is narrow enough to fit flat into
the slot in the shim bucket. Then file it until there is a nice knife
edge on it. Depress the valve, and stick the screwdriver through the
slot on the bucket and under the shim at the same time. It will just pop
right out, though oftentimes it helps to wiggle the valve depressor
around to help out. [Borowski]
Pin Wrench:
From: tedcrum@garnet.berkeley.edu (Ted Crum): A pin wrench (pin spanner)
is needed change strut cartridges, adjust [W] cam belts, etc. I've used
this trick from Popular Science for years: Make a pin wrench from an
adjustable ("Crescent") wrench with two holes drilled into the sides of
the jaws, near the tips. With pins placed in these holes, it is a strong
adjustable pin wrench. A second set of bigger holes can go a little down
from the tips and further from the nut-turning faces:
__
/ o |
/ |
/ |
|______|

Timing plug removal tool:
Use the handle of a stubby craftsmen slot screwdriver (or the lug wrench
from an old Bug).

Transmission plug tool:
I use a 17mm wheel lug bolt... They're plentiful: if you don't have any
spares, [some] bone-yard will be more than happy to let you paw around
their wrecks and carry away as many as you can hold.
You can either snap a pair of vice-grips onto the bolt's shaft
(tightly, mind you- those plugs can be VERY tight...) or do what I did,
and weld a nut onto the end of the bolt.
This allows you to use a socket and breaker bar or flex
handle to loosen the plug, then switch to a ratchet to spin it off.
It also allows you to use a torque wrench to re-install the plug to
manufacturer's torque specs.

[David M. Duma]:
Go to the section of the hardware store where they sell angle iron and
threaded rod. Buy a "coupling nut" for the threaded rod (basically a very
long hex nut). I found that the nut for 1/2" rod was 11/16" across the
flats, which is about 17.5mm . Walk over to the tools aisle and check the
coupling nut with a 17mm wrench to be sure. This fits my car's transmission
plug perfectly. If yours is snug a few minutes with a coarse abrasive stone
should produce a custom fit. You can then put the coupling nut into a
socket or box end wrench whenever you need it.
The same principle allows you to buy some of those power screwdriver bits
and put them into a 1/4" socket to use with your ratchet handle.
I'm still looking for a BIG nut to fit into the timing mark hole plug on the
transaxle.

>>>COME ON, THERE MUST BE PLENTY MORE

Q: My factory VW radio is CD changer ready. What unit other than the VW one
can I use?
A: The ones that can control a CD changer are made by Panasonic for VW.
The VW changer is also made by Panasonic for VW.

The head unit will only control the VW changer -- it won't control
other Panasonic changers. In other words, you are stuck with VWs changer.

FUEL INJECTION
==============

Q: What are the FI types used by VW?
A: [From TomH] First, let's remember that "CIS" is really Bosch K-Jetronic,
and "CIS-E" is KE-Jetronic. Now, as for the US GTI/GLI injection systems:

83-84 8V K-Jetronic
85-87 8V KE-Jetronic
87-89 16V KE-Jetronic
88-92 8V Digifant II
90-92 16V Motronic

KE-Jetronic is basically a K-Jetronic with ignition control and a knock
sensor, while Motronic has full engine management capabilities.

Note that the above data is for the US GTI/GLI series cars. The US GT/GL
models for example in 85-87 use CIS [kokerj@rpi.edu].

Digifant is a pulsed injection system (rather than continuous, like the
Bosch K series), which is in principle better. I'm no big fan of (at
least the early versions of) Digifant, I don't think it has horrible
reliability problems, either. You *will* need to run injector cleaner
through the engine more frequently, though, or performance and mpg will
drop right off the scale.

[From Jens Knickmeyer]:
The Digifant was developped by VW because the Bosch L-jetronic had
too small arrays, in VWs opinion. So they made their own system and
included the Dignition which lead to the motormanagement system
Digifant. I do not know for other contries, but here in Germany the
system has a communication bus called ABUS (Automubile, Bitserielle
Universelle Schnittstelle - automobile bitserial universal interface).
It is used to connect the diagnostic computer to the Digifant which
has a built-in automatic error detection (can detect defective temp.
sensor and knock sensor. If the latter is detected, the Digifant will
cut off fuel at high loads approx. every 5 secs.). The Digifant uses
ABUS also to exchange data with DIGIFIZ and maybe other future
components.

Polo injection systems:

Engine ID l kW / hp build FI-system

AAK 1.05 33 / 45 11/89- 7/90 Bosch Monojetronic
AAU 1.05 33 / 45 10/90- Bosch Monomotronic
NZ 1.3 40 / 55 2/87-12/90 VW Digijet
AAV 1.3 40 / 55 1/91- Bosch Monomotronic
3F 1.3 55 / 75 10/89- 9/90 Digifant (MAF)
3F 1.3 55 / 75 10/90- Digifant (MAF)
PY 1.3 85 /115 3/87- 7/90 Digifant (MAP)
PY 1.3 83 /113 1/91- 8/94 Digifant (MAP)+knock sensor

RECOMMENDATIONS
===============

Q: How do I take care of my car to make it last long?
A: Here are a couple of one liners, some of which are explained in more
detail elsewhere?
- Check fluids often (oil, coolant, PS fluid, brake fluid, battery)
- Follow recommended maintenance
Change oil & filter 3000 miles/5000km or 7500mi/12000km with synthetic oil
Use the correct weight of oil for the climat
Change coolant when it looks dirty (or every 2-4 years) and use phophate
free coolant mixed with distilled water
Bleed brakes yearly. Use Dot 3/4, Dot 4 or Super Dot 4 fluid
Change fuel filter (at least every 30k miles or 50k km)
- Use OEM, MANN or Bosch filters.
- Change the oxy-sensor at the recommended interval (if you don't
you may burn your cat. converter which is A LOT more expensive to replace)
- Reset mechanical trip odometers when the car is stationary
- Warm up your car by driving gently until your oil temp is 80C
- Check your CV boots for breaks often and replace as soon as they crack
(this will prevent having to replace the whole joint)
- Use fuel injector cleaner every couple months
- Check tire pressures periodically. It's better to over inflate than to
underinflate (I run 40 psi on my G60 with little effect on wear)
- Garage the car, leave it out of the sun
- Replace all gaskets and seals if you take something appart.
It's a small cost in comparison to the cost and time to take
something appart
- Cars with solid lifters: Adjust valve clearances as recommended
(if you don't, you may burn your valves).
- Replace all belts every ~60k miles/100k kms
- Replace all hoses every ~100k miles/160k kms
- Replace vacuum hoses as they get stiff and brittle
- Learn how to rev-shift to save clutch wear
- Check transmission level periodically. Familiarize yourself
first what that level should be for you car.
- Stay away from low quality parts, especially for CVJoints and axles
Do not use remanufactured parts, only OEM
- Run your AC at least once a month for a couple of minutes
to lubricate the bearings and prevent the seals from drying out

Q: Should I warm up my VW?
A: General recommendation is:
- Let it idle for a bit (couple secs, 1/2 minute)
- Then drive the car easily, rpm < 3000 or so.
- When the car is up to operating temp (80C oil or water needle 1/2 way)
you can increase rpm.
Why? Part of the reason is lubrication. Cold oil is not as viscous.
Oil pumps are constant volume pumps (at a specific rpm) and therefore
may produce excessive pressures when cold.
The second reason is thermal expansion. An engine is made to be driven
at operating temperature, and therefore things will not fit or seal
as well when cold. In addition, engine components expand at different
rates (e.g., cast iron vs aluminum, small vs large volumes) and the
slower this process occurs the smaller the expansion differences.
Idling your engine may warm up the engine too fast, driving hard
immediately will produce reduced lubrication and excessive pressure.

Q: Which is better High or Low revs when driving? Will either one damage the
engine?
A: The answer is to avoid extreme stress on the engine, neither excessive high
or low revs are advised.

Low Revs: You are putting a lot of torque on the engine with a low oil
volume & pressure. This can lead to damage. Generally stay above 1500 or
2000 rpms.

High Revs: VW engines are rather comfortable in the higher ranges. However,
at high revs you have a lot of (transient) thermal effects taking place
which are not always healthy (valves, head) in addition to certain harmonic
vibrations in all the shafts that spin, sometimes also the pistons
(motorcycles tend to have that problem more).
So far I have found VW engines to hold up well.
These cars were designed to sustain fairly high speeds in Germany.
However I have also found that the periphery does not always hold up:
Waterpumps tend to leak a lot quicker when you rev high.
Now what's high? Generally near redline is high, and it's not advised to go
over, or stay there for long.

Normal non-aggressive driving should be done between ~2000rpms & max torque
which is usually around 4000 rpms, resulting in "normal" wear.

Q: How do you break into all A1 & A2 VWs (exc. Corrado, Passats, A3) w/o
breaking glass in under 10 secs? (Verified by Jan, in a junk yard of
course).
A: This has received some protest, but I decided to post it anyway to make
people aware of the ease with which one can break into a VW, and because
advertisements for the deterrent actually has a picture on how to do it.

Punch a small hole with a screwdriver directly underneath the doorhandle
(underneath the lock) and move screwdriver up and down to unlock.
ADP armor door plates are the only safeguard. (800) ADP-LOCK, about $50 per
pair. Install in 5 minutes with just a screwdriver. Other brands exist.
Stay away from flimsier products though.

An alarm with engine lockout is also HIGHLY recommended.
Newer VWs come with such an alarm! Apparently very effective.

Q: What gas (petrol) should I use?
A: Very tough to answer! Generally stick with the better brands because they
take better care of the quality of the gas, keep their tanks cleaner, etc.
Note however that many brands share gas in rural areas to reduce
transportation costs (though they may add different additives).
It's also recommended to stick with one brand. Apparently the additives

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