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you have the whole tire made in two halves and you will
see a mold line running along in the center of the tread.
The shape of tires also differs between manufacturers.
Some tires have a square cross section: |__| (e.g.,
Pirelli P600) while others use more rounding towards the
tread: (__) (e.g., Michelin MXV). It's unclear which is
better. The square profiles assumes that the tire is
stiff enough not to flex too much, while the rounder
profile assume that the tire will roll sideways under
hard cornering and therefore these tires often have tread
patterns on the side of the tires. It's unclear which
works better in reality (though the above two examples
should be used for comparison).
Q:Will wider tires help my performance?
A:There is no straight answer! There are really three main
factors that determine handling (disregarding suspension
changes for now): 1) Frictional coefficient between the
tire and the road, 2) Contact patch size and geometry, 3)
Tire sidewall stiffness. If you keep the frictional
coefficient constant as well, you have two parameters to
play with: Width and Sidewall stiffness. Wider tires will
change the contact patch from an oval to a more elongated
oval, which generally improves handling, but increases
steering effort, and makes the car more prone to
aquaplaning (hydroplaning) in wet weather and in snow it
never gets to through the snow. In snow conditions the
best way to go is small rims (13" for A1 & A2) with a 165-
175/70/13 tire on it.
However, another, perhaps more important factor is
sidewall stiffness. The stiffer the sidewall, the less
the tire will flex sideways which improves turning,
transients, steering accuracy Therefore going from a
175/70-13 tire to a "plus 1" 185/60-14 or a "plus 2"
195/50-15 tire will elongate the contact patch, reduce
the sidewall height ==> increase side wall stiffness and
therefore improve handling. However changing from 185/60
to a 195/60 may or may not do much good: The contact
patch is more favorable but the sidewall is also
increased in height ==> more flex. Test by VW and EuroCar
have shown that an A2 GTI with 185/60 tires handles about
the same as one with 205/55. Note that they were using
the same car for this test, with the same suspension. (VW
sold the A2 GTIs with wider tires purely for looks and
customer demand despite the fact that it did little or no
good in handling). To make use of wider and lower profile
tires the suspension needs to be matched to the tires.
But there is more to it as well! Tires, even within one
type & size, may have different sidewall stiffness (e.g.
HR vs VR), and compound! A softer compound will grip
better, but wear faster.. Wider rims make a big
difference due to a better lateral support, effectively
increasing sidewall stiffness. NEVER use 5.5" on a 185/60
or wider tire; the wider the better, at least within
reason. A 7" rim would probably be ideal for a 195/50R15
tire for the street.
From Roy Kao: wider tires may make a marginal improvement
in transient cornering responses, but how often do you
make radicalattitude changes on the street?
In summary [From Mark S]:
Cost: worse
Ride quality: worse
Tramlining: worse
Handling quickness: better
Handling limits: better
Safety in standing water, mud, or snow: worse
Looks: better (imho)
Steering feel: probably worse
Braking: can't say for sure
Power application: probably worse
A lot of the above depend on tire choice, too. Note that
choice of tire will have a much much larger effect than
changing wheel size on handling. Alignment also has a
huge effect, as does tire pressure.
Q:What is a performance alignment?
A:A performance alignment means a little more toe out than
stock, for better turn in, and more negative camber than
stock, for obvious reasons. I wouldn't recommend it.
Unless you plan to devote you life to autocross (and
people do) you will not notice the difference.
This will however result in much quicker street tire wear
so you will have to balance this with your desire for
autocross. I would suggest getting everything else right
before you start worrying about alignment though.
However, call Eurotire for details about having a car
aligned to Andy King's specs. The mild neg. camber does
not show up much on the tire edges.
Note from Jan: this needs work. A performance set up can
be achieved w/o sacrificing tire wear by increasing
caster angle, which unfortunately is not adjustable on
most VWs.
See also the archives on alignment.
Q:What does toe-in, caster and camber mean and how do they
affect the car's handling?
A:This is borrowed from the "alignment" archive:
CAMBER:
The camber angle is the angle a tire makes with respect
to a vertical line.
Positive Camber = Tops of tires point outward. If you
look at the front of the car you'd see:
V
FRONTAL VIEW __ ( ) W ( ) __
Tire \ \ ---------- / / Tire
-- --
Too much positive camber ==> Tires wear on the OUTside
(away from the car) more than the inside.
Negative Camber = Tops of tires point inward.
Too much negative camber ==> Tires wear on the INside
more than the outside.
Camber affects directional stability and tire wear. A
difference between the front wheel camber settings will
cause your car to pull to one side. I also believe it
will cause torque steering to become more noticable. It
is therefore very important to keep camber for BOTH tires
as close as possible.
Your car will also perform differently with different
camber settings. For street use, follow manufacturer's
setting, for race use, use more negative camber
(basically so that the inboard tire will be flat on the
road in sharp curves). Naturally, more negative camber
will wear the insides of the tires quicker.
Note however that the terminology used is often very
confusing, here is a sample (for either a GTI or Scirocco
I think):
>--<
[Jan]
> Camber = -.17 to 0.83 Degrees; which seems to imply
that they want > positive camber (tops pointing AWAY).
That doesn't sound right.
> To make matter worse, in Greg Raven's book, when he
talks about
> 2.5 Degree Camber he means NEGATIVE camber = / \. Can
someone please help
> me out with this one?
[Mark]
Right. Negative camber helps cornering power and turn-
in. The reason that they recommend positive camber is to
ensure understeer for the "average" driver. At the end
of last season, I had settled on about 2.2 degrees
negative camber while I was autocrossing.
>--<
The rear camber is not normally adjustable on most FWD
VWs.
TOE:
Toe = distance between the front of the tires and their
rears.
Sometimes express by an angle instead.
(Negative Toe) = Toe OUT = distance between the front of
the tires > rears If you were to look from the TOP:
Front
================== Bumper
TOP VIEW __ __
Tire \ \ / / Tire
-- --
(Positive Toe) = Toe IN = distance between the front of
the tires < rears
Unlike the camber settings, the individual toe of each
front wheel is not as critical (because of the steering
mechanism), but the TOTAL toe is (Toe = distance rear -
distance front of tire). Usually only one side is
adjustable, which then results in the "crooked" steering
wheel problem.
For the rear wheels the individual toes are however
important. If that's off, your car will be driving "side
ways". But you do not have to worry about it because the
rear toe is not adjustable on most watercooled FWD VWs
(w/o special equipment).
Too much toe in or toe out will also wear your tires
prematurely. The wear pattern is called "feathering" and
it will show up as a slanted wear or zig-zag accross the
tread of your tires. If you were to take a cross section,
you'd see something like (a bit exagerated due to the
limitations of this format):
_ _ _ _ _
TIRE CROSS SECTION / |_/ |_/ |_/ |_/ |
| |
Also here things get a bit confusing:
>--<
[Jan]
> The specs for Toe are even more confusing: -15'+10' = -
.25 + .17 Degrees.
> I assume the "+" is used instead of a "+/-" which
results in:
> -.25 to -.08 degrees, a slight toe in, which is more
what I'd
> expect. (Greg Raven however recommends 1/8 inch [yes,
inch] of toe OUT).
[Mark]
Right. So negative is toe-in. The only car on the
market today that comes from the factory with toe-out is
the Acura NSX. Toe-out also helps turn-in, but does
increase tire wear and gives the car a little bump steer.
It may also wander a bit on the highway. I was running
1/8" (yes, inch) of toe-out during the autocross season,
but now I'm running zero toe.
The reason that toe is often given in inches is because
it's much easier to measure that way.
>--<
CASTER:
Caster = The angle your wheels pivot about wrt to the
vertical when you steer (= the angle of front
struts/shocks wrt to the vertical?).
__
/ \ SHOCK TOWER
SIDE VIEW //|
// | angle
STRUT //
O Wheel axle
Affects of caster: It keeps the wheels running in a
straight line and causes them to straighten when coming
out of a turn. Increasing caster also provides better
handling w/o the tire wear.
Too much caster causes hard steering, too little causes
your car to wander. Caster settings do not affect tire
wear.
If you look at a car from the side, caster is the angle
the front strut makes with a vertical line, similar to
the fork on a bicycle. When you turn, the axis of
rotation of the wheels is not perpendicular to the road,
but rather at an angle:
V
FRONTAL VIEW __ ( ) W ( ) __
TURNING LEFT Tire / / ---------- / / Tire
-- --
The result is that the tires "brace" themselves against
the cars sideways movement ==> better cornering! I
believe this is one of the reasons why a Corrado SLC
(with > 3 degrees of caster) feels more stable in a
straight line, and corners better than a G60 (with ~1
degree of caster) if you ignore the softer springs and
shocks of the SLC.
Caster angles are not easily adjustable on most A1-A3
VWs. So if some shop tells you they did, question their
abilities... Note: Still under investigation! By changing
the subframe to that used on an SLC, a greater caster
angle can be achieved. More drastic changes involves
moving the shock towers.
Q:My stock shocks are shot? What should I use to replace
them with?
A:VW shocks don't last very long (30-50k miles). The OEM
shocks are from Sachs or Boge (note: they merged in 1994)
and similar to the Boge ProGas shocks. Stiffer shocks
reduce roll, improve handling but also make the ride
harsher. Most competition & longer lasting shocks are
called "gas shocks" because they contain a gas filled
chamber that keeps the shock oil under pressure. This
pressurization prevents cavitation and foaming which
increase wear and reduces the shock's effectiveness.
A compromise to using stuff shocks is to use adjustable
shocks. Most popular competition oriented shock brands
are: Koni & Bilstein (debatable which is better), then
Tokico.
From M.SirotA: For non-competition, I'd rank them
Bilstein, Sachs, Boge, Koni, KYB (initial quality
problems), Tokico (harsh).
A note from ND's BBS: We have had many problems with
Tokico and do not sell them anymore except for some of
the jap cars. They use to have the worst warranty claim
problems. They had a plating problem on the shafts and
would turn down warranties saying customers were using
vise grips on the shafts. Now I have seen what vice grip
marks look like as we do get idiots who do that but these
were a manufacturer defect. So we decided not to sell
them anymore. Koni, Bilstein, Sachs and Boge have very
good warranty procedures and we will continue to offer
them to our customers.
[Note: Tokico Illuminas have reliability problems and a
particularly painful failure mode, but the non-
adjustables are probably fine.]
From M.SirotA: Koni makes three types of shocks: Red,
Sport Yellow, and Sport/SS. The Reds are the softest,
Yellow are next, and Sport/SS is the stiffest. The "SS"
stands for "Showroom Stock", as in the racing category.
The Sport/SS shocks are usually also yellow. Bilstein
makes at least two: The HD (Heavy Duty), the Sport and
the Race. The Sport is the stiffer one. To complicate
matters further, not all versions are available for all
applications, at least not off the shelf. And old shocks
can be revalved, or new custom ones can be made.
As with engine modifications that can be measured on a
dyno, suspension is very subjective as what may give you
the best lap time at the race track may make you VW
slower on a bumpy mountain road. That is why each persons
driving habits and location of most of their driving is
so important to a proper selection. Many VW owners
autocross in addition to regular street use and they may
sacrafice comfort to have a better handling car on the
track.
From the AutoTech Catalog:
Shock valving comparison chart
OE Soft Race
Stiff
------------------------------------------------------------
-
[]
[< Tokico HP >]
[< Tokico Illumina Adj >]
[< Bilstein Sport >]
[Bilstein Ralley/Race]
[< Bilstein Race
>]
See also the archives on Suspension_Mods
Sway bars: (Anti-roll bars)
Reduce side to side roll. Essentially they increase the
spring rate when you turn, but leave the bilateral
compression rates unchanged. This also means that ride
comfort is hardly affected, in general a win-win situation.
Most newer VW have sway bars, but aftermarket ones are
stiffer (thicker) and are attached better. I personally
prefer sway bars that mount in almost stock positions (e.g.,
VW, Neuspeed, AutoTech) because they are easy to install and
do not require major modifications. There are other bars
made by H&H and Suspension techniques that have gained some
following. The general recommendation is to change the rear
sway bar first to reduce oversteer, or to replace them both
simultaneously. More recent sentiment has shown that for
certain cars (Corrados) the front camber changes are
significant and a front roll bar is the first to change
rather then the rear. Always keep in mind the racing
regulations in this regards.
From M. Sirota:
Conventional wisdom says that changing the rear swaybar
is a good thing. A bigger rear sway bar will move the
handling more towards oversteer, and will also help in
putting the power down on the way out of corners because
it will help to keep the inside front tire planted.
However, empirical evidence for A1 & A2 VWs shows that a
big front sway bar helps quite a bit, probably because it
pays big dividends in limiting camber change. A big rear
bar might do the same, but I've never tried it since I
only raced my VW in Stock category, and it wasn't legal
to change the rear bar. In short, on an A1 or A2 VW in
Stock-category autocrossing (where you are not allowed to
change the rear bar), run as big a front bar as you can
find.
[At a later date he adds]: Talk with any SCCA Solo II
autocrosser who runs a VW successfully in the Stock
category. In Stock, you can play with the front bar but
not with the rear -- and the secret is to run as much
front bar as you can. Makes the car MUCH MUCH MUCH
faster, *and* easier to drive. It's a big win. This is
a well-known fact. If you're not racing, or you're racing
someplace where it's also okay to change the rear bar,
then I can't offer any particular advice -- except that
you need more roll stiffness than VW provides, for sure.
In an ideal world, we'd only have one sway bar, and it
would be in the rear for a FWD car. However, in reality,
we almost always use two. If you could change everything
else (suspension type, pickup points, spring rates,
damper rates, geometry, corner weights, ackerman, roll
centers, CG positions, and a host of other things) you
might be able to design a perfect system where a rear bar
only would be a good thing. However, this is generally
impossible on production cars, and so we end up using two
bars just so that we can reduce roll without completely
screwing up the handling balance. As a side note, I use
both bars on my Formula Ford, too. I find that even
though I can tune it to be neutral with just one bar, it
feels much better in transients with two, probably
because the roll *rate* is more similar at both ends that
way. And I think they use bars at both ends even on
Formula One cars.
Stress bars:
------------
Stress bars reduce body flex by connecting either the top of
the free standing shock towers, or by connecting the
mounting points of the "A" arms. A1 VWs are in most need of
a lower front stress bar, while all A1 & A2 VWs could
benefit from an upper strut tower stress bar. (A2 cars have
a lower subframe and therefore do not need a lower stress
bar).
The advantage in installation of Neuspeed stress bars over
the Autotech bars is that you are not required to work on
the inside of the wheel well. The Neuspeed bar comes with
these "nutserts" that essentially create a thread in the
shock tower to bolt the bar to. The Autotech bars, as I
recall, require you to put nuts on the bolts from the inside
of the wheel well (they do claim to be a more positive
structural connection, which may be so). The Neuspeed bars
have also been superb quality and finish-wise.
Sporttuning tip from AutoTech: One warning sign of excessive
chassis flex is stress cracking of paint around the upper
front strut towers. This may eventually lead to the shock
towers breaking through. Stressbars can eliviate this
problem while also reducing chassis movement.
The rear upper shock tower stress bar is mostly for
*extreme* race purposes. Robert Collins (see archives)
argues that the rear stress bar is pure hype.
The effect of a stress bar is somewhat subtle, and does not
always translate in a significant performance gains. Both
the lower and upper front sway bar have subtle effects. The
cars feels "calmer" there seem to be fewer vibration
transmitted, and the car feels more confident in turns.
Springs:
--------
Springs don't normally wear out. However, there are
competition oriented springs that usually also lower the car
or progressive rate springs that offer a soft ride for
normal cruizing but non-linearly stiffen up as they are
compressed.
One of the things to keep in mind is that springs and shocks
need to be matched to some degree or ride may suffer. Most
engineers are probably familiar with the equations of a
spring and damper combination. Depending on the selected
spring and damping constant (and mass) the combination will
either be underdamped, overdamped, or oscilatory. Using
sport shocks with stock springs may not always be the best
combination, nor may sport springs with soft shocks.
Sporttuning Tip from AutoTech: Do not cut or heat sag
springs to reduce ride height because it does not increase
spring rate increasing the chance of bottoming out and the
chance to damage the chassis. The problems associated with
these modifications include broken strut housings,
misalignments, and broken windshield due to body twist. Heat
sagging also causes the spring material to become brittle
reducing the life of the spring. Stayaway from bargain
springs that use substandard wires.
**WARNING**: Suspension changes will affect the way your
car handles, especially under emergency maneuvers. Therefore
it is highly advised that you familiarize yourself with your
car before you use it in normal traffic conditions. Taking a
performance oriented driving class sponsored by one of the
car clubs is therefore highly advised.
>>>THIS NEEDS TO BE IMPROVED/REWRITTEN A BIT. SUGGESTIONS?
KEEP it short....
BODY/INTERIOR
=============
Q:How can I make my car quieter? What kind of sound
insulation is available?
A:There are a variety of products available on the market
that you either glue on the car's inner body panells or
spray into cavities. These products are available from
either car audio stores, or electronic stores. Do shop
around because price varies alot.
The effects of this insulation varies with the type of
material used and how and where it was installed.
Generally, the more you cover up, sometimes even doubling
up in certain areas, the greater reduction in noise. It
will also improve the sound quality of your car due to
the fact you have lowered the resonance frequency.
VWs generally produce most of their noise in the engine
compartment, followed by the entire exhaust system, the
wheel wells (rear), and after that it's probably a toss
up whether your doors or your roof makes the most noise.
For the more recent models, VW actually did a fairly good
job at insulating the car, however, there is always room
for improvement.
Start with the easily accessible areas that have bare
sheet metal, and that sound "tinny" when struck. Most
people start by insulating the trunk floor, rear wheel
wells, the spare wheel well, and underneath the rear
seat. Those areas are right above the muffler or the
wheels with little or no insulation. In my Corrado G60, I
noticed a reduction in buzzing coming from the rear. The
car is now noticeably quieter in the rear versus the
front, while previously it was about the same. Some have
reported results up to 10 dBa reduction, which is rather
significant (a 3dB reduction = 1/2 the noise).
If you are more ambitious, go underneath the carpets as
well. However, depending on the model of the car, VW
probably beat you to it already and it's unclear whether
it'll make much of a difference.
The next areas to treat are harder. If your car does not
have foam underneath the hood, add it. Next try
insulating the fire wall, but be aware that that area
gets very hot and you need suitable materials for that
area.
The top is like a bloody drum, in some respects, and
anything done here to deaden it or change the harmonic
frequency helps. Note that the foam insulation that vw
uses deteriorates after a period of time, especially the
headliner.
Cut the mats to size, than pull of the adhesive cover and
stick it to the body panel. Some products require a heat
gun (hair dryer works too) to establish a firm bond, or
to get the material sufficiently pliable. Some apply
additional glue, such as 3M "Spray 99 adhesive" to get a
good bond.
Probably the most popular product in the USA is that made
by Dynamat. Another brand name with a similar product is
AccuMat by Scoshe Industries. Both Dynamat and AccuMat
sell a variety of types, the thin sheets are generally
for covering body panels, the thicker for under carpets,
and a high temp mat/foam sheet that can be used in the
engine compartment. Other brand names are: Kentamat,
Sonex, a foam padding, designed much like the walls of
an anechoic chamber, available in various thicknesses and
densities, and used to deaden or absorb sound in rooms,
chambers, or instrument areas.
Dynamat is some kind of asphalt sheet with glue on one
side, while AccuMat is made out of latex and the thicker
ones out of foam. Some speculate that Dynamat is nothing
more than Bitumen roofing paper, and therefore any dense
material would work. Some have had limited success with
using asphalt roofing material such as "Elastophene Flam"
which is an SBF membrane roofing material (it's black,
heavy, fireproof, 1/8" thick and relatively cheap) or
simple vinyl floor tyles which the AccuMat thin product
resembles.
I have used the thin sheets from both Dynamat and
Accumat, and they both have pros and cons. Accumat costs
more, adheres better but does not dampen as well. Dynamat
does not adhere well at all (unless you use a heat gun or
spray on adhesive), dampen better than Accumat
(subjective opinion) but out of the box, Dynamat STINKS
majorly. Applying this fresh dynamat over a surface that
get hot (i.e., above the exhaust system) will noticeable
smell up your car. The problem goes away over time, but
it's better if you leave the sheets to bake and air out
in the sun for a couple of weeks. Dynamat does sell a low
oder version, but that's even more expensive and smaller
than their regular sheets.
ADVOTECH (CA) sells a product called RattleTrap which is
a rubbery goo (it reminded me a bit of Plummers' Putty
actually) you squeeze into cavities that buzz.
Q: Is moving my battery to the trunk a good idea? What
effect will it have?
A:[From Jeff Mayzurk]: Yeah, it's a great idea. I did it in
my Scirocco and was very pleased with the results. Before
you do it, though, take your car to a local truck stop
(or any other certified scale) and get the weight for
both axles, and then compare afterwards so you can figure
out how much of a difference it made.
In Greg Raven's "Water-Cooled, Front-Drive Performance
Handbook," he discusses the effects of moving the
battery on weight distribution. In his example, moving
the forty pound battery (mine weighs 38 lbs.) to the rear
moves the center of gravity back only 1.9 inches, but has
a much larger effect on weight distribution.
In my car, I bought a $10 plastic battery box, about 20
feet of 2-ga wire, and a few battery terminals. It's
mounted right behind the rear seat on the passenger side,
and is grounded at the right-rear seatbelt mount
(underneath the cushion). I ran the positive cable along
the doorsill, underneath the carpet, through a grommet in
the firewall, and to the alternator. After adding
additional engine-chassis ground cables, I've had
absolutely no problems with charging.
Holes can be drilled through the floor of the trunk
inside of the battery box between the battery box wall
and the battery. Make sure nothing is in the way below
the floor of the trunk when you drill the holes.
If you know your car extremely well, you will notice the
difference right away -- I did. You have the be really
sensitive to your car's behavior in transitions, but the
difference is there. My car rides better and dives less
under braking. Handling feels just slightly more neutral
overall, but traction under full throttle in low gears is
more of a problem now. (This is the only drawback I can
think of, and is definitely something to consider if you
have a very light car with a strong motor.)
By the way, make sure you have some provision for holding
the battery down in the event of a rollover. If your car
ever gets upside down (god forbid), you don't want that
forty-pound weight flying around in the cockpit.
NOTE: Relocating the battery may put you in a different
auto-x category!
MISCELLANEA
>>>> SUGGESTIONS/COMMENTS/CORRECTIONS? send e-mail to above
address
Contributors (not exhaustive):
------------------------------
Note: Quoted contributions imply possible conflicting pieces
of advise with other contributors.
See the lists in the other FAQs.
mgm@royko.Chicago.COM (Marty Masters)
Blake Sobiloff
jay.mitchell@the-matrix.com (Jay Mitchell)
Jonathan Dove
jstulen@eis.dofasco.ca (James Stulen)
Jeffrey M. Mayzurk
drbob27@aol.com (Bob April)
welty@balltown.cma.com (richard welty)
e0ewqbwu@tuzo.erin.utoronto.ca (Roy Kao)
(Bob April)
Michael R. Kim
priest@flame.engr.sgi.com (Ed Priest)
rchambers@aol.com (RChambers)
ptong12@ursa.calvin.edu (Peter Tong) '82 2.0 8v cabby --
highly modified
TURBOTIM at ND's BBS (Tim Hildebrand)
lindi@monk.bose.com (Matt Lindi)
cmhewitt@mtu.edu (Chad Hewitt)
harry@alsys.com (Harry Kimura @ignite)
donald@sq.sq.com (Donald Teed)
mbernier@aol.com (MBernier)
Bryan D. Boyle bdboyle@erenj.com
whong@ida.org (William Hong)
Michael R. Kim mrkim@uci.edu
a-mikem@ac.tandem.com (Michael McKay)
soo@bmerh989.bnr.ca (Wei Soo)
chrub@CAM.ORG (Chuck Rubin)
cocw@hk.super.net (Mr Chun Wong)
monster16v@aol.com (MONSTER16V)
MICHAEL H. CHIN"
h2only@aol.com (H2ONLY)
------------------------------------------------------------
--------
Disclaimer: My employer has nothing to do with this. Use any
info in this posting at your OWN risk. This is public
information and should not be dissiminated for profit.
--
o ___|___ [\\] | Jan Vandenbrande jan@lipari.usc.edu
__0 /\0/ /-------\ _ | http://alicudi.usc.edu:80/~jan/
\<,_ O \\ (_________) .#/_\_. | If you are still in control, you are
(_)/ (_) // [_] [_] |_(_)_| | not going fast enough.
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