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Archive-name: autos/vw/performance-faq
Rec-autos-vw-archive-name: performance-faq
Posting-Frequency: bi-monthly
Last-modified: 1 December 1995
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Frequently Asked Questions
for
Water Cooled VWs
-- Performance --
rec.autos.vw
Date:
Version:
1 Feb 94 = Creation and copy from tech faqs.
1 Mar 94 = First posting.
1 Apr 94 = Conversion to MsWord for easier maintenance.
1 May 94 = Solo I & II added. Books to read.
1 Jun 94 = Relocating batteries, shock stiffness table,
lights, alignment
15 Jun 94 =performance updates, Sound insolation.
1 July 94 =Edits, stressbar updates.
12 Oct 94 = Lots of new stuff.
27 Jan 95 = Partially updated
10 Feb 95 = Finally included Mark's additions.
1 Oct 95 = Updated distribution, formatting.
1 Dec 95 = Updates (note formatting is a bit screwed up)
Moderator: Jan Vandenbrande, jan@ug.eds.com
See also the list of contributors at the end.
Please feel free to submit any additional info.
------------------------------------------------------------
Copyright Notice (c) -- 1994, 1995: All Rights Reserved
The information contained here is collectively copyrighted
by the authors. The right to reproduce this is hereby
given, provided it is copied intact, with the copyright
notice inclusive. However, the authors explicitly prohibit
selling this document, any of its parts, or any document
which contains parts of this document.
------------------------------------------------------------
Index:
======
GENERAL 1
Q: I want to go faster? Where should I start?1
Q:I'm interested in eventually changing from autox to obtain the SCCA
Competition license on and do some amateur weekend racing?. 2
Q:What type of car racing are available (for normal mortals) in the US?
2
Q: What is autocross (Solo II)?2
Q:What are the allowable mods for each auto-x category? 4
Stock: 4
Street Prepared: 4
Prepared: 5
Modified 6
Q: What are the Solo II Classifications for VWs?7
Q:What are the addresses for some of the performance related clubs?7
Q:What are the some of the performance driving schools? 7
Q: Will performance equipment void my car warrantee?8
CHEMICALS 8
Q: What is Rain-X? Does it work?9
Q: Can and should I use synthetic motor oils?9
Q: Is synthetic oil compatible with other oils.10
REFERENCE MATERIAL 10
Q: What are some of the Performance books to Read?10
Q:Whar are some of the Monthly/Quaterly Publications? 11
ENGINE 11
Q: How can I get more power out my VW?11
Q: What's a K&N air filter?15
Q: How do I service a K&N air filter?15
Q: How do I keep my engine cool?15
Q:How can I improve heat transfer/what are alternative coolant fluids?
16
Q:Do "Split Fire" (= name of a plug sold in the US, not a type of plug)
plugs live up to their advertised claims? 16
Q: What net wisdom exists on exhaust systems?17
Q:Removing the restrictor in a VW Fox to get more power? 17
Q:What is the relationship between torque and horsepower?17
Q: Should I remove the catalytic converter?18
Q:Are the performance chips interchangeable between cars with similar
engines, e.g., VR6 Corrado and Passat? 18
Q: Which performance chips are recommended for VWs?18
ELECTRICAL 18
Q:How can I improve night visibility/increase light output? 18
TRANSMISSION 19
Q: Should I change to a racing clutch?19
Q:What transmission fluid should I use (manual cars)? Why is it
important for racing? 20
Q:What's the difference between the normal wheel bearing grease and
Spectro SPL grease? 20
BRAKES 21
Q: What and why vented rotors?21
Q: Why cross drilled rotors?21
Q:Is it worthwhile changing my rear drums to disc brakes?21
Q:What are the benefits of steel braided brake lines? 21
Q: What pads should I use?22
TIRES/RIMS/SUSPENSION 22
Q:I want to improve the handling of my VW? Where should I start? 22
Tires & Rims: 22
Q: What are the rim width ranges per tire size?23
Q:What is the largest rim/tire sizes that will fit on my VW? 23
Q:What is rim offset? [D="EinpressTiefe" or "ET" Value] 24
Q:What are the "standard" VW wheel offsets (the amount the rim is offset
from the hub)? 24
Q:What is the proper tire inflation for my car for performance driving?
24
Q: What are examples of proper tire inflation autoX?25
Q:How can adjust over/under-steer behavior of my car? 26
Q:My VW lifts its rear inner wheel in sharp turns. Is this normal? 26
Q: Are VW rims interchangeable?26
Q:What are the current preferred tire choices for VWs? 27
Normal 27
Snow 27
Perfomance 27
Race 28
Q:What are "standard" (factory) tire sizes for my VW? 29
Q:How can I tell the characteristics of a tire by just looking at it?
30
Q: Will wider tires help my performance?30
Q: What is a performance alignment?31
Q:What does toe-in, caster and camber mean and how do they affect the
car's handling? 31
CAMBER: 31
TOE: 32
CASTER: 33
Q:My stock shocks are shot? What should I use to replace them with?34
Shock valving comparison chart 35
Q:How can I make my car quieter? What kind of sound insulation is
available? 39
Q: Is moving my battery to the trunk a good idea?
What effect will it have? 40
GENERAL
Editor's Foreword: This FAQ is geared at improving the
performance of watercooled VWs based on the Golf Chassis (A1-
A3: Golf I/Rabbit, Golf II & III, Sciroccos, Corrados,
Jettas, Ventos, Convertibles) using predominantly the "1600
type" and larger 4 cylinder engine block and the new VR6
2.8/2.9l engine. Because of this FAQ's origine, most
improvements are aimed at the US/Canadian market. The above
cars also share many components with Dashers/Passats/Fox's
(e.g., engines), though they differ in many other aspects
such as suspension and exhaust system. Some of these cars
may actually have more in common with Audis.
Performance improvements encompasses a wide field of
subjects, most commonly referred to in the context of
increasing power and improving handling. This FAQ intends to
go beyond these traditional meanings and include changes
that improve upon the stock design. Performance often is
achieved at the expense of something else often not
mentioned with the advertised component such as fuel
consumption, harsher ride or noise. This FAQ intends to
reveal some of these as well.
One of the things to keep in mind is cost. In some cases the
improvements will costs as much as a new stock part from VW,
but in other cases it costs more. Generally you will never
recover the cost of these improvements. Unlike real estate,
most cars are not investments and therefore the reason for
spending money is for pure pleasure. For that reason, you
need to make a decision on whether it is worth it to you for
the amount of time you want to keep the car. Also, it makes
little sense to buy the most expensive suspension system if
your engine is about to blow. Fix the rest first perhaps
with better components.
Not covered in this FAQ are the engines/fuel systems
available outside North America such as engines less than
1500 cc and carburetors/mono-throttle FI systems.
Another good thing to keep in mind is: "Speed costs money,
how fast can you afford to go?" [?]
Q:I want to go faster? Where should I start?
A:Yourself. Most people only utilizes a small portion of
their car's capabilities, and often do not know how the
car handles under emergency conditions. Almost EVERYONE
can benefit by taking a performance "Driving School" from
one of the local clubs (e.g. SCCA, ~1/2 day, inexpensive,
fun) or from a performance driving school (e.g. Skip
Barber, Bob Bondurant, etc, expensive, fun). It is
probably the biggest single improvement you can make and
it's a skill you take with you no matter what car you are
driving.. In every day driving it may make the difference
between an accident and avoiding one!
The next question you need to ask yourself is *why* you
want to improve your car's performance. Do you want to
impress your friends? Do you want to blow away other cars
on the street? Do you want to compete, and if so, what
type of competition? There are all kinds of car
competitions: Autocross, road racing, rally, concours,
drag race, and so on?
Will you be using this car for your daily commute or will
it be purely used for competitions? Depending on what
you want to do, you may want to follow a very different
path to enhance performance.
What runs well on a track may not be acceptable or barely
drivable for a street car (clearance, noise, hard ride,
rough idle, bent rims, the law...). Additionally, if you
want to race in a club, cars are categorized depending on
their power and handling, and to what extent they have
been modified.
For example, it may be better to leave your car stock
than to make certain modifications. Most classing
structures allow only certain modifications, and if you
do somethign else, you'll be bumped to the next category.
For instance, in SCCA Solo II autocrossing, Stock-
category cars must run on rims that are the same size as
the originals. If you go with a wider rim, you will have
to run in the Street Prepared category. There, you would
also have to lower and stiffen your car and replace your
entire intake system in order to be competitive.
Q:I'm interested in eventually changing from autox to
obtain the SCCA Competition license on and do some
amateur weekend racing?.
A:I'd suggest starting out in a Stock vehicle. An option,
if you really intend to eventually go road racing, is to
look for an inexpensive road racing vehicle like a Vee or
an IT car, and run it as an autocrosser while learning;
then when you're ready for SCCA racing school, you should
already have a reliable, well understood vehicle in your
possession. Note that it's *very* hard to learn to drive
in a formula car. People just starting in driving
competitions should be in two-seat sedan-type cars --
things happen more slowly, and they can take passengers
and ride as passengers with better drivers. Note that
formula racing is also a lot more expensive.
Q:What type of car racing are available (for normal
mortals) in the US?
A:The SCCA defined several types of racing, open to the
"public":
Solo I is a high speed event, using cars prepared to road
racing safety standards; it covers both hill climbs and
race track based events. Solo I (and Solo II) are time
trials; there is no wheel-to-wheel action involved.
Solo II is a moderate speed event; it corresponds roughly
to what other clubs call autocross. Safety equipment is
not mandated, except for roll bars in heavily prepared
convertibles (stock convertibles do not require roll bars
in Solo II.)
Q:What is autocross (Solo II)?
A:Autocrossing (or, Solo II) is timed racing in a
controlled situation where the agility of your car, and
your ability as a driver, are more important than raw
horsepower. Autox courses are usually setup in large
parking lots with orange traffic cones. Unless the course
is pretty long, only one car is allowed on the course at
any time, which means that there's no possibility of
going fender-to-fender with another car. Cars are
classed, either by the local group (if they're
independent) or by the Sports Car Club of America (SCCA),
according to their level of vehicle
preparation/modification called categories (Stock, Street
Prepared, Prepared and Modified, or S, SP, P, M) and by
their performance characteristics, i.e., class. There are
9 stock classes from SS (Super Stock) down to H Stock, SP
and M go from A-E, but P goes A-F.
There is a category that some SCCA regions are using
called SM or Street Modified (aka "Open Street Prepared"
in some regions). This is for cars that do not fit in
Street Prepared but are not competitive for Prepared
class. (Note that this is not a nationally recognized
class).
Stock class was originally intended to be a place for
novice autox-ers to "run what they bring", and many
local clubs have special classes for novice competitors
to compete in for their first year. The current
situation for the Stock Category is that it has become BY
FAR the most intense competition, followed by either
Street Prepared or Modified (depending whether you look
nationally or regionally).
The two other categories are Prepared (mostly race-
prepped production cars) and Modified (open wheel cars
and production cars with major engine transplants, etc.).
The preparation allowances for Stock Category are
somewhat more liberal than one might guess: any front
swaybar may be used, and adjustable suspensions are not
required to be adjusted to factory specs. As an example,
the VW GTI that I run typically is set to 2.25 degrees
negative camber and 3/16" toe out at the front. In
addition, you need autocross tires to be really
competitive, and these tires are worthless for any street
use. Most serious competitors in Stock Category buy a
second set of wheels and mount autocross tires. The above
notwithstanding, autocross competition is amazingly
challenging and fun, as long as you understand that you
won't be winning any trophies until you get some "seat
time". I highly recommend the activity.
At the beginning of the autox season most clubs also hold
novice driver and performance driving schools which teach
you the basics (how to follow the course, how cars are
staged on the grid, how to be a course worker, safety
issues, etc.). All you need to compete in most places is
a street-legal car that can pass a basic safety
inspection and a valid drivers license; you're required
to wear a helmet (Snell 75 or ANSI Z90.1b (1979)
approved) when you race, but there are usually loaner
helmets available for you to borrow when you're first
getting started. (Note: DOT only approved helmets are not
allowed).
There's an Internet-based group of autox-ers called
"Team.Net" (the "dot" is pronounced) who have a mailing
list and an ftp archive to promote discussion of autox-
related issues.
Send email to "autox-request@autox.team.net" or in case
of failure, use autox-request@triumph.cs.utah.edu (the
former hoosier address has been decommissioned) to be
added to the list. Their URL for WWW access is:
http://triumph.cs.utah.edu/team.net.html. They also have
a fairly extensive set of archives, pictures and mpeg
movies.
Also, call the SCCA ((303) 694-7222) and ask for the Solo
II contact person in your region; they should provide you
this person's phone number, and you can call this person
to find out when events are scheduled.
Contributors:
[Blake Sobiloff ]
[jay.mitchell@the-matrix.com (Jay Mitchell)]
[Jonathan Dove ]
[Mark Sirota ]
Q:What are the allowable mods for each auto-x category?
A:There are four major auto-x categories: Stock, Street
Prepared, Prepared and Modified. It is relatively
important to avoid spreading the misconception that the
four categories are a linear progression -- they're not.
Modified is not for "production based cars that have been
modified beyond Prepared allowances," because that
suggests that Prepared is beyond SP, and Mod is beyond
Prepared. It's not so. It's better to think that there
are two progressions -- Stock -> SP -> Mod, and Stock ->
Prepared -> Mod. I generally phrase the Modified
description as "two for production-based cars that only
barely resemble their original configuration."
Stock:
Cars must run "as specified by the manufacturer," with
the exception of specific allowances. These allowances
include [jay.mitchell]:
1.The use of any front swaybar.
2.Any suspension adjustment IF the manufacturer makes
provision for adjustment for non-competition purposes.
3.Any shock absorber that is does not change suspension
geometry or alter the range of travel (i.e., must use
original mounting position). I [jay.mitchell] use Konis
on my A2 VWs, and the Nationals-winning cars have all
used Konis as well.
4.An aftermarket steering wheel within 1" total diameter of
the stock wheel. Wheels with airbags may not be changed,
and cars made after model year 1990 must retain the stock
steering wheel. .
5.Road wheels of the stock diameter and width with offset
within +/- 1/4" of stock. This means that wheels with 6mm
less offset than stock are allowed, resulting in a track
width increase of 1/2"
For example, it allows wheels with 32mm offset on 8V GTIs
and Jettas (stock is 14x6 with 38mm offset), widening the
track by a total of 1/2".
6.Any brake lining material.
7.Certain engine "blueprinting" practices, although these
are rapidly being phased out. Balancing and blueprinting
is only allowed if done by the parts-bin technique; no
machining is allowed. Cars model year '92 and newer may
not overbore/balance, and all cars starting in 1/1/95
this is not allowed.
8.The use of any DOT-legal "street" tire. The hot setups
are BFG COmp T/A R1s or Yokohama A008RSIIs, and these
tires are stickier than pure racing rain tires were five
years ago! [Jonathan Dove]:
9.Ignition timing must be within factory setting
10Can change the exhaust system behind catalytic converter
(if equipped) or exhaust manifold.
11Allows the use of bolt in roll cages.
Other than the above modifications, you have to leave
your car pretty much as it was manufactured in Stock,
including the original driver's seat, body trim (you
could add non-aerodynamic appearance bits, but you could
NOT remove original trim), battery location and size,
except for loose items, such as the jack and spare tire
which may be removed.
Street Prepared:
(Basically the same as stock except for these)
Street Prepared was originally intended as an incremental
step beyond Stock prep levels. As it now stands, a really
competitive Street Prepared car may neither be street legal
nor practical for street use. (Note that older cars are
subject to less stringent EPA/NHTSA regulations and
therefore may be street legal in SP class). Tires must still
be DOT legal. In addition to Stock allowances, Street
Prepared allows the following:
1.Replacement or modification of stock springs. Replacement
springs must be of the same type (coil, leaf, or torsion
bar) and in the same location, as original, but the rate,
free length, and coil diameter may vary from stock.
2.Installation of camber plates in strut suspensions.
3.Installation of body stressbars. There are strict
limitations on the type of "strut brace" that may be
installed, but some of the most common ones (Neuspeed
front bars, for example) are legal.
4.The use of any wheel size and/or offset.
5 The use of any intake and/or exhaust system that will
attach to the original, unmodified engine, i.e., the
cylinder head may not be mcahined or drilled to accept a
non-stock manifold.
6 The alteration or removal of emission control devices.
7 The installation of any fully padded and upholstered
driver and front passenger seat.
8 The installation of any steering wheel.
9 The use of a limited slip differential with the same
factory ratio.
10The use of any flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, etc.,
that will bolt to the stock crankshaft.
11The use of any ignition system, including a crank fire
system on a car not originally so equipped.
12Ignition timing can be set outside factory specs.
Prepared:
Prepared Category is structured around SCCA club racing
preparation allowances for Production and GT class race
cars. Prepared cars typically have all interior trim removed
(not allowed in Stock or Street Prepared), roll cages, full
racing suspensions, highly modified engines, and they can
run on racing slicks. A list of allowances would be far too
long to itemize here, and you have to have both a Solo II
rulebook and the General Competition Rules to determine the
legality of any particular modification to a car.
The following was supplied by Richard Welty:
Production is a road race class; although stagnant for
many years, there is now change occuring here. the cars
in production are substantially
different from their road-going cousins.
GT: these are generally tube framed cars with sheet metal
that resembles a road going car; there are 5 classes, GT-
1 through GT-5. GT-1 contains corvettes, camaros, etc.,
and GT-5 contains things like Minis, and there are
various cars in between.
Sports Racers: these are single-seat, closed fendered,
special purpose race cars. there are a number of
subclasses which are quite different from each other:
Sports 2000, C Sports Racer, D Sports Racer, Spec Racer,
Shelby Can Am, and so forth...
Formula Cars: these are the single seat, open fendered,
special purpose race cars. like sports racers, there is a
lot of variation in the subclasses, which include:
Formula V (based on air cooled VW parts), Formula 440
(based on 2 stroke motors and CVTs), Formula Ford (based
on 1600cc Ford motors), Formula Continental (a
conglomeration of various older winged Formula cars), and
Formula Atlantic.
Showroom Stock: a class where theoretically stock
vehicles of recent vintage come together and do
experiments in clever, difficult to detect cheating.
Supposed to be cheap, but ends up being expensive.
A more elaborate entry by Bob April: SCCA has a form of
racing, Showroom Stock, that purports to be exactly that.
Outside of a roll cage, fire extinguisher, and
competition harness, the car is supposed to be dead
stock. Even the adjustments (such as front wheel camber)
must be set to factory specs. Cars must be relatively
new. In my experience (some years back) 1/3 of the cars
were legal, 1/3 had fudges which probably didn't matter,
and 1/3 cheated like hell. You can be in the first third
(I was) and still have fun. You get to race at places
you see on TV (Watkins Glen, Road America, etc.) I drove
the car to the track, put numbers on with contact paper,
and had a ball. In circa 50 races I had to get the car
towed from the track three times (one head gasket, one
destroyed clutch, one large hole in engine block with rod
sticking out), although I also once drove an X1/9 back
400 miles in 3rd gear (only), towing a small trailer with
race tires and tools. The driver must join SCCA, have a
routine physical, and have a helmet, firesuit, and
gloves. Figure $1000-$2000 to prepare car and driver.
Major maintenance costs are tires and bodywork, and you
have some control over the latter. Totalling the car is
rare, but it happens. Getting hurt is much rarer, but it
happens. You go through two weekends (schools) of
supervised practice and mock races and get to enter
Regional races. Successfully complete these and you get
to enter National races. Once you have the license, you
can show up in a Formula Atlantic (the worst safety flaw
in the whole thing).
Improved Touring: a class where battered, rusty sedans
built between 1968 and about 5 years ago come to trade
paint. Everybody is sure that the guy who just beat him
is cheating, but nobody can afford to post the tear down
bond. loads of fun, actually, but watch out for Volvos
from Hell.
Improved Touring allows for typical (wheels, bars, etc.)
mods. The drawback is you'll work on the car, and not
learn racing nearly as fast. Be like a Formula 1 driver;
just show up and drive. For more info, call SCCA. If
you can't find the number, you don't have the proper
attitude to do this; it takes a _lot_ of perseverance.
American Sedan: Big bore version of Improved Touring;
Five liter Mustangs, Camaros, and Firebirds trade paint.
Modified
Modified Category has five classes, including three intended
primarily for open wheel race cars and two for production
based cars that have been modified beyond Prepared
allowances. In this class, the sky is the limit (almost). In
my region, we have two Datsun Z cars with Chevy V8s and a
heavily turbocharged Miata in Modified, as well as a
fiberglass GT-40 lookalike kit car. Popular Modified cars
include Formula Fords, Formula Vees, and F440s.
The SCCA publishes the Solo I and II Rules in a book that
costs about $10 (for nonmembers, less if you are a member).
The rules are updated annually and the current year's rules
are available beginning in January. The above descriptions
are general and NOT comprehensive: if you are contemplating
modifications to your car for Solo competition, I strongly
recommend that you buy a rulebook. Happy conehunting!
Q:What are the Solo II Classifications for VWs?
A:Here is a list of popular VWs, along with their Solo II
Classifications:
Car Stock Street P Prepared
Rabbit/Jetta, GTI (A1) ES DSP EP
Rab PU/Fox HS DSP EP
8V Golf/Jetta, GTI(A2) ES DSP EP
All 16V ES CSP EP
Corrado G60 DS ASP EP
Corrado SLC (*) CS ASP EP
Passat GL HS DSP EP
Passat VR6/GLX GS DSP EP
Golf/Jetta III, HS N/A N/A
Note: Prepared is currently being massively restructured.
(*): Being considered for a reclassification in GS.
Q:What are the addresses for some of the performance
related clubs?
A:
Sports Car Club of America, SCCA, (General Car Club),
USA, (800) 255 5550
SCCA Cal Club, LA/OC area, Hotline (818) 988-RACE, or
contact:
Lin Jensen (818) 309 95 91
Renee Angel (909) 947 06 44
Ric (310) 496 39 50
Solo (714) 539 22 57
SCCA Cal Club, San Diego, Hotline (619) 441 13 33
Q:What are the some of the performance driving schools?
A:Some testimonials from Ed Priest:
If you can afford it go to a Track Time driving school.
Cost approx $500 for two days of instruction and time on
the racing track of your choice. You learn a lot and it's
a hell of a good time. I've gone twice at Road America
and am going to take the class at Laguna Saca this fall.
The cost is a lot less expensive then Skip Barber and the
rest because you drive your own car - which is what I
wanted anyway. It's really good to find out what your own
car feels like and does at the limit. The good news is
that most of the insurance companies cover you during the
class for no extra charge.
Comment from Mark Sirota:
I've taken both TrackTime and the BMW/Skip Barber
Advanced Driving School. I took TrackTime in 1988 and
Skippy in 1987, so things may have changed -- but I think
the two-day BMW/Skippy street-driving school is probably
the best for anyone who has never done any real racing.
It's currently $975, but worth every penny (and if it
saves you from one accident, it paid itself off). Next
time you buy a car, spend a thousand less on the car and
a thousand more on the driver. And you can take the
gains with you into every car you drive.
TrackTime and similar schools are great fun, and you can
learn things, but not the sort of things that Skippy
teaches. Skippy is much more applicable knowledge, and
just as much fun. Courses taught on real racetracks are
a blast, but are really only relevant if you're gonna be
racing on real racetracks.
Bondurant
Firebird International Raceway Complex
P.O.Box 51980
Phoenix, AZ 85076-1980
(602) 796 1111, (800) 842 72 23
Russel Racing School
Laguna Seca,
1023 Monterey Hwy,
Salinas, CA 93908
(408) 372 72 23, fax (408) 372 0458
Skip Barber Racing School
29 Brook Street
Lakeville, CT 06039
(203) 435 1300, fax (203) 435 1321
For additional Schools, see Drivi
ng Schools
Q:Will performance equipment void my car warrantee?
A:It depends on what and how extensive you modify your car
and whether the parts are street legal. It also depends
on what country/province/state you live in. In the USA,
car warrantees are not automatically voided if you use
street legal (i.e., approved by the applicable
authorities such as the EPA/CARB/NHTSA) components. For
example, changing to Bilstein shocks will not void your
warrantee and neither will changing your muffler to a
Leistritz or Gillette muffler. Things become a bit more
difficult with engine modifications.Your warranty is not
voided unless the dealer can prove that your modification
caused whatever damage your car has. However, it may be
extremely difficult to convince them to do so, and more
than likely they will not want to help you.
CHEMICALS
Q:What is Rain-X? Does it work?
A:It's a chemical to treat your windshield to repell water.
Above certain speeds raindrops will just slide off the
windshield making wipers almost redundant. This product
is used on airplanes. Peoples experiences vary with this
product. It works well on some windshields or types of
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