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   It is a 2-part putty that is essentially a rubber Bondo.  I [Craig] have
   used it several times and am quite happy with it.  I believe that
   the kit costs about $15.00 at your local body shop supply store.

   I [Jan] have used Shoe Goo at times to fix portion of my chin spoiler.
   Works rather well.


Q: I cracked my windshield, what should I do?
A: If the crack is small (<2 cm in diameter) and either out of your line of
   site or away from the wipers, you could have it filled
   with an epoxy compound. Some have reported good luck with this, I have
   not been very lucky.

   If the windshield starts cracking, you could try to drill a hole to
   stop the crack with a tungsten carbide drill bit, bit in all likelyhood
   it's not going to do much good. You still need a new windshield.

   I personally do not like the majority of aftermarket windshields.
   They are either weaker (crack much quicker), show distortions, introduce
   more wind noise, cause water leakage and therefore
   I usually get the windshield at VW or order the OEM windshield
   (Securit). They are more but I think they work better and seem to
   hold up better to stone chips.
   You may have to fight it with your insurance co though. I tell them
   that the aftermarket windshields are not E2 certified and therefore
   do not meet OEM specs.

   The windshield on older VWs are just held in place with the rubber
   molding, while the newer VWs have bonded windshields with a substantial
   higher installation cost.
   As always, you should replace *ALL* old seals when replacing a windshield,
   it's worth the extra cost to avoid leaks and rust.

   Look for a reputable place to install the
   windshield because in the newer cars the windshield is part of the
   structural integrity of the car.
   Some of the mass market and cheaper place DO NOT BOND THE WINDSHIELD
   ADEQUATELY. All they use is Butyl Tape, which stays soft and will
   pop out the windshield in the event of a roll-over. Windshields Of America
   lost a multimillion dollar law suit in Colorado because of this
   (I mention them because I am EXTREMELY dissatisfied with them as well:
   It took them 4 tries to get it right, and I am not even sure they
   used anything but butyl tape).
   According to the place I now go to (I loose one windshield every couple
   years) recommends P255FC Urethane for bonding the windshield.
   It becomes very rigid and you cannot prick it with a pin after it cures,
   while butil tapes feels soft and goo-y.


Q: My seat material has ripped, how do I fix it? This is mostly dedicated
   to those with 85-87 GTIs. :-<
A: Excerpts from the group:
   My 87 GTI 16V needed replacement 3 times.  The first two were under
   warranty, the third time I decided on the DIY route.
   I checked the re-uphostery option, but was too much of an unknown
   result.
   I decided to buy the dealer part and do it myself.  Took the seat out
   and removed the old bolster.  As it turned out, there was a sharp
   weld bead right under where the rip always started!
   A few wraps of ye ole duct tape fixed that.  I then re-installed the
   new bolster cover over the old foam bolster itself.  This was a pain
   in the ass, because there are these sharp upholsterer's clips you
   have to re-bend into place (there may be a tool to ease this, but I
   used pliers).  The whole thing took a couple of hours.
   Anyway, it held up after that.  I'm convinced it was that sharp weld
   in the seat frame that caused it, and if you have a grinder you may
   want to grid it down to smooth it for extra insurance.

   Ok, here's two different versions of fixit solutions: #1 find a GTI with
   the same seats and get the passenger's seat $35 around my parts for a GOOD
   one with NO TEARS or Wear. Then disassemble it and re-cover your driver's
   seat with its parts. it's a little more complicated than just taking one
   out and swapping the other in as things like the seat belt and slider rails
   aren't exactly the same. (they are Really close, but not the same when you
   consider things like the seat belt mount point...)
   #2 Take the entire seat apart and recover it in a BETTER material. I've
   been running my butt across a material called Sunbrella (designed for use
   as boat cushion/boat top material). At first, it didn't seem as comfy as
   the original, but then again the other original wore out and has since
   been covered to match. Mine are done in black which ought to absorb as
   much of the scorching South Florida sun as anything, yet they are never
   hot like vinyl even when I have the glass sunroof removed at noon. I would
   hate to think what an upholstery shop would have charged to do the work my
   mom did re-covering my 2 fromt seats because this fabric is VERY un forgiving
   when you start stretching it over the frame. There were a few stitches that
   mom had to dismantle and re-sew to get to fit just right, but everyone who
   looks into my interior comments on my seats. (the rear seat is still done
   in the original fabric which is now starting to show its age 12+ years)

Q: How do I treat my leather interior?
A: I have so far not found any "miracle" solution.
   A variety of suggestions however exist:
   - Vacuum all the dust and sand from the seam (it causes the seams to tear)
   - Moist rag for occasional cleansing
   - Meguire's leather treatment
   - Saddle Soap and Mink Oil
   - Lexol Cleaner and Conditioner

Q: How do I fix damaged undercoating?
A: From JL Foster: According to VW:
   "Any detected damage to the undercoating should be
   repaired.  Oil based protective sprays must not be applied.
   Only tar or wax based anticorrosion protectors are compatible with the
   factory applied undercoating."
   VW sells the product, but I have also found after market products
   in Europe by 3M that also meet this requirement.
   Note that VW "Sealwax" (AKR 321 M15 4) or 3M Rustfighter-I is the stuff
   they spray inside the cavities.


MISCELLANEA
===========

Q: When my Corrado spoiler retracts, it squeaks. What do I do? 
A: VW recommends to "Lubricate" the two "stalks" with Talcum or Graphite powder
   after thoroughly cleaning them.

   Note that baby powder used to be talcum, but because of the naturally
   occurring asbestos with talcum (I know, we are all doomed), baby powder
   sometimes contains corn starch instead.

   Note: Silicon spray is rumored to dry out rubber and is not recommended.
   *However* I have been using 100% Si spray and so far it's
   the only product that has worked the longest. In addition, I found
   that talcum powder tended to "bunch" up.
   (Note, that some Si sprays contain pertoleum destilates...you do not
   want that).

   You also DEFINITELY DO NOT want to use any grease, WD-40, Tri-Flo, etc.
   This stuff is incompatible with the rubber seals.

Q: Are those ventilation filters sold by APS any good?
A: They are pure CRAP!!! They are too restrictive according to Roc Goolen. [If
   you really want to filter your air, go to a hardware store, buy a furnace
   filter for a couple $$ and rig it up somehow. Jan...later I tried that,
   and wouldn't you know, that too restricted the airflow!
   At least I only spent .40 US$ finding this out.]

   Note that the filters that APS used to sell were made by Climismann (sp?);
   they are now selling units made by Bosch and make the claim that they "work
   much better." [Hmmmmm.... Ed.]

>>>> SUGGESTIONS/COMMENTS/CORRECTIONS? send e-mail to above address

Contributors (not exhaustive):
------------------------------
Note: Quoted contributions imply possible conflicting pieces of advise
with other contributors.

jmm2948@zeus.tamu.edu (Jeffrey M. Mayzurk)
mshaw@netzone.com mark@wdc.sps.mot.com (Mark Shaw)
dilmore@techops.cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
tgpt_ltd@uhura.cc.rochester.edu (Tom Guptill)
rgolen@UMASSD.EDU (Ric Golen)
cdg@sei.cmu.edu (Craig Gary)
borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
tomh@wes.on.ca (\tom haapanen)
teek@kingcong.uwaterloo.ca (Prateek Dwivedi)
gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (ANdy)
eric@quantum.qnx.com (Eric Johnson)
dans@ans.net (Dan Simoes)
dilmore@techops.cray.com (Robert J. Dilmore)
tedcrum@garnet.berkeley.edu (Ted Crum)
crawford@fido.econ.arizona.edu (David Crawford)
sirota@greenwich.com (Mark Sirota)
blu@cellar.org (Dan Reed)
scottz@pangea.Stanford.EDU (Scott Zeller)
christos@wucs1.wustl.edu (Christos Papadopoulos)
neves@anchor.cs.colorado.edu (NEVES RICHARD K)
rkast2+@unixd.cis.pitt.edu (Rajiv K. Agrawala)
wolfsond@cse.fau.edu (Dan)
borowski@hpspkla.spk.hp.com (Don T. Borowski)
jjmacklo@infonode.ingr.com (Jim Macklow)
ilh@lcs.mit.edu (Lee Hetherington)
ke05@ns1.cc.lehigh.edu (KIRBY ERLANDSEN)
mhembruc@tsegw.tse.com (Mattias Hembruch)
ptong12@ursa.calvin.edu (Peter Tong)
morton@quack.kfu.com (Brent Morton)
chan@seattleu.edu (Anthony)
gjm@macsch.com (Greg Moore)
thogard@wrdis01.robins.af.mil (Cont Tim Hogard)
mshearer@math.ucla.edu (Michael Shearer)
squiec@vccnw04.its.rpi.edu (Craig L. Squier)
jdouglas@mitre.org (Jason Douglas)
jay.mitchell@the-matrix.com (Jay Mitchell)
pk16@frc.ri.cmu.edu (Paul Keller)
keys@csmes.ncsl.nist.gov (Larry Keys)
scornelius@ws11.iac.honeywell.com (Steve Cornelius)
lito@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Lito Lucena)
cfm@cbnews.cb.att.com (conrad.f.matter)
chneide@world.std.com (Eric G Schneider)
Volney.Spalding@Corp.Sun.COM (Volney Spalding)
rbriber@eng.umd.edu (Robert M. Briber)
frank.sikernitsky@mail.trincoll.edu (The Catt)
tcora@Pica.Army.Mil (Tom Coradeschi)
eschwa@csn.org (Emerson Schwartzkopf)
cremelie@ibmsp.elis.rug.ac.be (Nick Cremelie)
seibed@lamar.ColoState.EDU (Edward Seibert)
lsharkey@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu (Sharkman)
Eric Lee Green    elg@usl.edu
Tom Huppi thuppi@delphi.com
Greg Welch, welchg@cs.unc.edu
scornelius@server2.iac.honeywell.com (Steve Cornelius)
jdr40@juts.ccc.amdahl.com (John Ritter)
Craig D. Gary" 
Mark (mbernier@aol.com)
garrick@cfd19.eng.buffalo.edu (Sean)
gsdiseth@efn.org (Gregor)
pmd11@phy.cam.ac.uk (Peter Dickson)
MHC@ussu.Ciba.Com (Michael Chin)
"Daniel J. Stern" 
vyeung@bmerha11.bnr.ca (Vincent Yeung)
John Leipsic 
gajewski@ug.cs.dal.ca (Andy)
Charlie Crutchfield
JBratek@aol.com
jtracey@pts.mot.com (James Tracey)
RHOVNANI@STDNTMAIL.LMU.EDU (RAFFI HOVNANIAN)
zrxh0370@baracke.rus.uni-stuttgart.de (Ulli Horlacher)
dlgoodri@iastate.edu (Dennis L Goodrich)
JBratek@aol.com

Jens Knickmeyer 
johnd@netcom.com john denny
Matthew Jelavic 
jlfoster@siu.edu JOHN L FOSTER
Ed Wodzienski ewodzien@phoenix.calpoly.edu
 Bill N Gallas
EIPTUNING@aol.com (RICH)
"Chen, Karl" 
jwarren@x31.infi.net jeffrey warren
Mark Komosa komosa@ibm.net
TAY Chek Hee s2800021@singnet.com.sg
Cyberanne cyberann@his.com
Andy  
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Disclaimer: My employer has nothing to do with this.
      Use any info in this posting at your OWN risk.
      This is public information and should not be dissiminated
      for profit.
-- 
              o   ___|___    [\\]    | Jan Vandenbrande jan@lipari.usc.edu
   __0    /\0/   /-------\      _    | http://alicudi.usc.edu:80/~jan/ 
   \<,_  O  \\  (_________)  .#/_\_. | If you are still in control, you are
(_)/ (_)    //  [_]     [_]  |_(_)_| | not going fast enough.

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