quality will only be as good as the tuner in your head unit. Also, FM
is limited in its frequency response. There is usually a noticeable
loss of the high frequencies, due to the nature of transmitting via FM.
If you do not want to use an FM Modulated CD changer, some
manufacturers make controllers for changers that feature line-level
(RCA) outputs. This allows you to connect the changer directly to an
amplifier, bypassing the stock system altogether. Some models offer
line-level inputs, allowing you to connect the stock system to the
changer (so you can continue to use your radio/tape). Clarion, Sony,
and Kenwood make such units.
Your third option is to use the aftermarket changer that corresponds to
the stock unit in your car. Not all cars have this option, but it is
becoming easier. (see Section 3.25).
3.25 What kind of changer will work with my factory head unit? [PO]
=====================================================================
Many factory head units these days have the ability to control a
remotely mounted cd changer. Generally, the head will have a button
labelled "CD" to switch sources to the external changer. In this mode
either the radio preset buttons and/or the tuner up/down buttons will
control which CD and/or track is playing. Check your car's manual to
make sure your head can control a changer and how the buttons work.
Once you know your head can control a changer, you wonder "What kind of
changer will work with my factory head unit?" Of course, the one the
dealer wants to sell you will work. However, the dealer makes lots of
money selling you a changer, and there are often other after-market
solutions, usually involving an adapter cable and a name-brand changer.
The dealer will tell you that their solution is better and that's why it
costs so much more (often more than twice as much as an aftermarket
solution).
The car manufacturers are constantly changing the interfaces between
their heads and changers, in an effort to get you to buy their solution.
However, the after-market is constantly reverse-engineering the
interfaces and providing alternative solutions for the cost-conscious
consumer.
Two companies that make such adapters are Precision Interface
Electronics (or PIE, ) and Peripheral Interface
Components (). Check
their web sites to see if there's an adapter for your car's factory
head. They also list which changer(s) will work with their adapters.
For example, many of Honda's late-model heads were made for them by
Alpine, so the OEM changer you'd pay your friendly Honda dealer ~$700
for is essentially the same as Alpine's changers. The only difference
is the interface wiring, where they swapped two pins, specifically so
you'd have to get it from the dealer. (If you're interested in the
details, see
). The
after-market adapters for this head simply swap the pins back, so you
can use the regular Alpine changer, which can be bought for ~$300.
Once you know which adapter/changer combo will work, you can get it from
your local car audio dealer or favorite mail order place. The advantage
of getting it from a local dealer is that they'll be able to install it
for you. However, if you have the time and are at all mechanically
inclined, you should readily be able to install it yourself.
3.26 What are some good (and bad) brands of CD changers?
==========================================================
You will find that those companies who make high-quality in-dash CD
players will also make good CD changers. (see Section 3.19), for
a list.
3.27 Why do I need a center channel in my car, and how do I do it?
[HK, JSC]
====================================================================
If a proper center image isn't achievable via a two channel
configuration, installation of a center channel can help. Since the
majority of recordings are done in two channel, a two channel system
designed correctly should be able to reproduce a center image which was
captured during recording. A center channel is not simply a summation
of the left and right channels, like bridging an amplifier; rather, it
is an extraction of common signals from the left and right channels.
This usually means the lead vocals, and perhaps one or two instruments.
These signals will then be localized to the center of the stage,
instead of perhaps drifting between the left center and right center of
the stage. A signal processor is usually required in order to properly
create a center channel image. The image should then be sent to a
driver in the physical center of the front of the car, at an
amplification level somewhat lower than the rest of the speakers. The
correct frequency range and power levels will depend on the particular
installation, though a good starting point is perhaps a pass band of
250-3000Hz at an amplification level of half the power of the main
speakers (3dB down).
3.28 Should I buy a sound field processor? [DK]
=================================================
Sound field processors (also known as DSPs) are fun toys to play with,
and can have some use, but it is generally good to keep the KISS
principle in mind: Keep It Simple, Stupid.
The fewer signal processors (this includes equalizers, and active
crossovers) that are in your system, the less chance there will be for
noise to enter your system. You'll also save money, have a lower noise
floor. Surround sound processors and bass regenerators are nothing
more than bells and whistles and are totally superfluous in a properly
designed system.
3.29 What are some good (and bad) brands of signal processors? [IDB]
======================================================================
If you do decide to buy a signal processor, try to stick with reputable
brands like: AudioControl, Clark, Crystal-Line, Phoenix Gold, Rane or
Clarion. Try to stay away from brands such as Petras, Urban Audio
Works and Kraco.
3.30 I keep hearing that speakers for Company X are made by Company
Y. What's the deal? [IDB, DK]
======================================================================
Many of the speakers you've ever purchased or ever will purchase have
been assembled in plants "along side" speakers from other
manufacturers, but that does NOT imply in any way, shape or form
whatsoever that the two brands are even VAGUELY similar. This is often
done in order to reduce costs because purchasing your own gaussing
stations and mass producing your own drivers takes a LOT of money to
implement.
3.31 What is a Line Driver? Do I need one? [LC,IDB]
======================================================
A line driver is a device that amplifies a signal, such as the low-level
signal output from a head unit. Line drivers are made to amplify the
line level signal to as much as 10 volts or higher. This, of course, is
useless unless the receiving end can handle 10 volts as input. To solve
this problem, there are line receivers which bring the line level
voltage down from 10 volts or more to about 1 volt. Usually, the line
driver and receiver are placed as close to the sending signal source and
destination as possible, to minimize noise pick up.
The automobile is an inherently noisy electrical environment. So RCA
cables may pick up noise as it makes its way to the amplifier. Note
that noise here refers to the induced noise, not ground loop noise such
as engine whine. A simple way to fight against this noise is to make
the signal level carried in the RCA cable very high, thus increasing the
signal's resistance to induced noise and resulting in a higher signal to
noise ratio at the destination of the RCA cable. Most head units
produce a fairly low output voltage (< 1.5 V), although recently high
end head units advertise 4 volt or higher output, and won't usually need
a line driver.
The line driver will increase dynamic range in certain cases where
excessive noise is masking the lower level signals. However, a line
driver will not increase the dynamic range when used in a system with
little noise to begin with.
There is some truth to the claim that a line driver will let you play
your stereo louder since there are cases where the amplifier still
doesn't play at its full potential even when its gain is turned all the
way up and the volume on the head unit is maxed out. Adding a line
driver here will allow you to turn down the gain on the amp while using
a lower volume setting on the head unit.
But before you jump in with both feet, remember that all electronics
has their own inherent noise. Thus if you don't have a serious case of
induced noise, a line driver will do little good since it might add
enough noise to offset what little noise it "takes away."
The line driver is a patch to the noise problem rather than a fix so it
is still not the ultimate solution. My personal experience has shown
to ME that a properly installed system with none-malfunctioning
components will have little noise, even if you use low grade components
such as those made by the less desirable manufactures. Also, a lot of
crossovers and EQ units have rather high low-level output signals.
Some times as high as 8 volts. So be sure to take this into
consideration.
3.32 Can I play MP3 files in my car? [AK]
===========================================
In a few short years several products have hit the mainstream which
enable consumers to use digital music files instead of relying on fixed
media like tapes and CDs. The most popular format is MPEG Layer 3 or
simply MP3. Most aftermarket manufacturers produce at least one
product which will allow you to play MP3 files that have been copied to
a CD-R or CD-R/W, and to do so without converting the MP3 files into CD
Audio format. Some of these units will also play other formats, such
as WMA (Window Media Audio), or Ogg Vorbis.
Another option which is often less expensive is to use a portable music
player such as Apple's iPod or the Creative Nomad, and to use an
inexpensive FM modulator to broadcast the player's audio output over FM
radio. Then, you simply tune your headunit to the proper FM station to
listen to your music. The downside of this is that your overal sound
quality is limited not by the encoding of the file, but by the
capability of FM radio, which is significantly less than audiophile
quality.
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