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 rec.models.rockets FAQ Part 08 - Boost and Rocket Gliders

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    of the desired turn, or tilting the stab in the OPPOSITE direction. Turn can
    be increased by warping the trailing edge of the OPPOSITE wing down a bit. I
    try to avoid warping the inner wing panel trailing edges up at all, as this
    can lead to spiral dives. Turn can also be adjusted with the rudder.

    For a left roll on boost, warp the left tip of the stab trailing edge up,
    and the right tip down. This works at high speed, but has little effect at
    glide speeds. Use wing warp, stab tilt, and a bit of rudder to increase or
    decrease the turn as needed. 

    Try a few harder throws. The glider should quickly settle down into a flat
    gentle circle. Continue adjusting the surfaces until you get this result.

    Now you are ready for a serious hand launch. This is an art form in itself.
    Throw the model up as hard as you can, at a 45 degree angle up and to
    your right, and with the wing banked at the same 45 degree angle. The model
    should slowly roll to the left, changing from a right turn to a left turn.
    If you are lucky, the model will be gently circling 30 or more feet
    overhead. If not, it probably smacked the ground, so pick it up and try
    again. Go back and check the trim with a gentle toss, and if all is OK, try
    again. You may want to vary the angles between 30-60 degrees each, until you
    find what works best for you and your model.

    Now you are ready for the first launch. Pick a reduced power motor, just
    enough to get the glider to a reasonable altitude, and launch it. Use a
    power tower as described previously. Carefully observe the boost,
    transition, and glide. Watch out for a "death dive" where the glider never
    transitions and comes straight down. This can be fixed with increased stab
    incidence or warping the trailing edge of the stab up. Also watch for
    "spiral dive" where the model turns very tightly and crashes into the
    ground. This is caused by too much turn, or a wing that isn't producing
    enough lift. Try reducing the turn or warping down the inside edge of the
    inboard wing.

    Continue to adjust the flying surfaces until you get the flight you want.
    Now move up to the desired motor size, and fly again. Soon you'll need to
    read the answer to the next question.
------------------------------------------
8.2.16   My glider never came down and flew away. What is wrong?

    If it went in a straight line, you need to re-trim the glider to circle as
    it glides. Perhaps your field was too small. Find a larger place to fly.
    
    If neither of these is the case, you probably just found a thermal. Air is
    not static. It moves around due to uneven heating and cooling. A hawk
    circling overhead, without flapping its wings is in a thermal. When air is
    heated, it rises. Whatever is in that air goes up with it, be it bird,
    rocket, or airplane. If the air is rising faster than the sink rate of your
    model, the model will rise in the air. In general, this is good, as it
    allows your model to fly much longer. It stops being good when you lose the
    model!

    This is a "good" problem. it means you've solved most of the problems you've
    encountered, and have (had?) a pretty good glider. Picking thermals is an
    art that is beyond this FAQ. Now we have to find a way to get the glider
    back. These devices are called dethermalizers (DT) because they are designed
    to get your model out of a thermal. 

    This is done by transforming a good glider into a bad glider. There are two
    parts to this transformation. The first is some sort of timer, to cause the
    action to occur when you choose. The second is an actuating device that
    de-stabilizes the glide.

    Timers come in several forms. Most common is dethermalizer fuse. This looks
    more like cotton rope, and burns very slowly, typically 1/4" per minute. By
    having this fuse burn a string or rubber band, we can actuate a device in
    flight. Be sure to use a snuffer tube with the fuse, to prevent the fuse
    from falling free and starting a grass file. Other more sophisticated timers
    are built from small spring wound motors, or a viscous fluid like STP or
    silly putty with a piston slowly moving thru the fluid.

    There are many actuating devices used. The simplest is a drop weight. Since
    we often need to add weight to the nose of a glider when trimming, this
    weight can be dropped, with a string going either to the tail or INSIDE wing
    (if you go to the outside wing, all you will do is change the glider from a
    left turn to a right turn, or vice versa). By shifting the weight, the
    glider will now severely stall (tail), or spiral (inside wing) into the
    ground.

    The "beer can" DT was popular at MIT because of its first step, empty a can
    of beer! A piece of the aluminum can is deployed as a flap from the INSIDE
    of the fuselage. This acts as a drag break, and causes the glider to slowly
    spiral down.

    Often a DT consists of a flap, either on the wing or stab, that pops up and
    alters the trim of a glider, causing it to spiral dive or stall. One problem
    with these is that if not set properly, they can mess up the trim of your
    glider, eliminating the need for a DT in the first place. 

    Another problem with many DTs, especially those that produce a stall or
    gentle spiral, is that in a strong thermal, they may be insufficient to
    recover the model. Finally, the DT action may bring the glider down so hard
    that it is damaged on landing.

    I like the pop up wing DT used on the Gold Rush (Model Aviation May 1985
    page 64). The entire wing is hinged, and pops up about 60 degrees. This
    effectively turns the entire wing into a drag break, sending the fuselage
    straight down. The model lands nose first, protecting the delicate tail from
    damage. A variation of this totally cuts the wing loose, except for a string
    that ties the wing to the tail. The fuselage falls like an arrow, nose
    first, with the wing fluttering behind. Another nice feature for the serious
    competitor is that the hinge pin can be removed, making the model very easy
    to pack for shipping.
------------------------------------------
8.2.17  References: (kits, books, publications, catalogs)

    Kits:

        Apogee          Maxima A
                        Maxima B
        Eclipse         ???
        Edmonds         Deltie
                        Deltie-C
                        Deltie Thunder
                        Ivee
                        Ivee-C
        Estes
                #2075   ARV Condor
                #2097   Manta
                #1284   Space Shuttle
                #2086   Tomcat
                #2112   TransWing
        MRC             Thermal Hawk
        QCR             Auta Sight FWs
                        Easy Slide RGs
                        Edmonds Canard RGs
                        Folded Wing RGs
                        Never Loop BGs
                        Dethermalizer kit
        Quest   #3002   Aurora
                #3006   Flat Cat

    Plans:

        Name            Number          Source
        ----            ------          ------
        Athena                          NFFS plans
        Bo Weevil                       NFFS 1973
        Catharsis       BH-151          Bill Hannah ???
        Challenger                      MA August 1985 page 67
        Flip                            SIG kit
        Gold Rush                       MA May 1985 page 64
        Pigeon                          SIG kit
        Polly           AMA #263        MA May 1979 page 50
        Roll Out        AMA #201        MA 
        Roscoe 18       AMA #509        MA May 1986 page 60
        Semi Pro        AMA #124        MA January 1976 page 22
        Stomper         AMA #510        MA May 1986 page 60
        Supersweep 22                   NFFS 1976, AAM December 1974
        Sweepette 18                    NFFS 1982
        Thermic                         Jetco kit
        Wasp VI         AMA #343        MA August 1981 page 57, NFFS 85
        Zenith          AMA #705        MA December 1991 page 61

    Books:

        "Flying Hand Launched Gliders" John Kaufmann, William Morrow 1974
        (out of print, often found in the children's section of libraries)

        "Handbook of Model Rocketry", G Harry Stine, Wiley 1994,

        "Hey, kid, ya wanna build and airplane?", Bill Hannan, Model
        Builder

        "Model Rocket Design and Construction", Tim Van Milligan, Kalmbach
        1995 email: 102374.2533@compuserve.com

        "Throw it out of sight" Lawrence Abrams

        ???, Bill Winter, 1951 

    Publications:

        NARTREK, c/o Lew Proudfoot 310 Dover Court Allen, TX 75002 e-mail
        lewis_proudfoot@comsys.rockwell.com or Dr40Lew@aol.com

        NARTS, P.O. Box 1482, Saugus, MA 01906 e-mail
        73320.1253@compuserve.com 

        NFFS digest, 19 Frederick Dr. Newport News, VA 23601 $15/year

        NFFS plans, 10115 Newbold Dr. St. Louis, MO 63137

        NFFS publications, 4858 Moorpark Ave. San Jose, CA 95129

        Zaic yearbooks, Model Aero Publications, P O Box 135, Northridge, CA
        91343

    Catalogs:

        Apogee Components Inc., 19828 North 43rd Drive, Glendale, AZ 85308
            email: 71441.1111@compuserve.com

        Eclipse Components, 570 Buckeye Dr, Colorado Springs, CO 80919 
            email: 102100.1566@compuserve.com

        Edmonds Aerospace, 13326 Preuit Place, Herndon, VA 22070
            email:  RobEdmonds@aol.com

        QCR, 7021 Forest View Drive, Springfield, VA 22150

        SIG, 401 S Front St, Montezuma, IA 50171 (800)247-5008
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Copyright (c) 1996 Wolfram von Kiparski, editor. 
Refer to Part 00 for the full copyright notice. 



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