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rec.models.rockets FAQ Part 07 - Scale Modeling |
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Mercury-Atlas ES 4 1/35; len=33in 50.00
Mercury-Atlas BOY
Mercury-Redstone BOY 5 1/17.5; 58x4 in.
Mercury-Redstone BOY 3 1/100; 9.75x0.736 in.
Nike Ajax MIM-3A K060 TLP 4 55" long 50.00
Nike-Apache COS 4+ 1/6;52.5x2.63in 55.00
Nike-Smoke COS 4+ 1/6; 36.5x2.63 45.00
Nike Smoke 1030 FSI 4 1/8; 72.6x5.1cm 29.00
Nike Smoke 2007 Q 2 49.5x3.5cm 7.00
Nike-Smoke SRW 3 1/30; 7.64x0,55in 6.50
Nike-Smoke BOY 1 1/22; 10.5x0.736 in.
Nike-Tomahawk 1023 FSI 5 1/8; 46.0x2.0in 34.00
Patriot EST 0896 ES 1 mini-motors; 25.4x1.878cm 4.40
Patriot EST 2066 ES 4 1/5;99x7.62cm; 4 motor clstr 60.00
Patriot K-85 NCR 4 1/4;140.7x10.2cm 60.00
Patriot THOY 4 1/4;132x10.2cm 60.00
Patriot PML 4 1/4;132x10.2cm 60.00
Pershing 1A BOY 2 1/30; 8.5x0.736 in.
Perseus TLP 3 26.25x1.6" 17.00
Phoenix EST 1380 ES 3 1/9 (semi); 76.2x6.6cm 21.50
Phoenix AIM-54C TLP 3 25.75x2.6" 29.00
RP-3 ASP 2
Sandhawk CLR 3 1/5; 2.6in diam. 38.50
Sandia Sandhawk 1031 FSI 5 1/6; 49.0x2.0in 33.00
Saturn 1B BOY 2 1/396; 6.8x0.736 in.
Saturn V BOY 1 1/396; 10.7x0.976 in.
Scimitar TLP 4 39.25x2.6" 32.00
Sea Wolf K052 TLP 4 1/2.72; 29x2.6in 33.00
Sergeant CLR 3 3.1in diam. 38.50
Sidewinder AIM-9L K030 TLP 4 36.0x1.6in 26.00
Space Shuttle EST 1284 ES 4 1/162; len=34.5cm 25.00
Sparrow AIM-7F TLP 3 46.75x2.6" 29.00
SR-71 Blackbird EST 1942 ES 3 semi-scale; len=48.3cm 16.00
Standard AGM-78 K032 TLP 4 1/5.2; 34.6x2.6in 29.00
Standard ARM LS-101 MRC 2 1/14 (sport);25x1.17in
Standard ARM CLR 3 2.6in diam. 32.50
TAN-SAM (Type 81) K045 TLP 4 1/2.42; 44.0x2.6in 31.00
Terrier/Sandhawk EST 2083 ES 4+ 1:9.8; 116.8x4.66cm 31.00
Trailblazer LS-104 MRC 4 1/17;34.3x1.75in
Type 30 Art. K049 TLP 4 1/4/54; 40.75x2.6in 25.00
V-2 MSHRK103 MSH 2 1/25sportscale;22.5x2.6in 22.00
V-2 MSH 3 1/16.25sportscale;31.5x4" 60.00
Vostok COS 5 1:33 scale 45x3.1in 130.00
Wasp 1024 FSI 5 1/8;34.75x2.0in 39.60
There are also a number of Ready-to-fly (RTF) and Almost-ready-to-fly
(ARTF) flying rockets, if you want 'minimal' build time:
Honest John 5050 COX 1 1/24;len=13in 17.00
Saturn 1B 5025 COX 1 len=21.5in 34.00
Saturn V 5075 COX 1 len=34in 54.00
X-15 5000 COX 1 1/24 21.00
Some recently discontinued scale kits which you can still
occasionally find on hobby store shelves include (all of the below
were in the 1991 catalogs or later):
Honest John EST 1269 ES 3 1/9;94x6.6cm 40.00
IRIS EST 2007 ES 2 1/13; 17.125x.976in 7.00
Little Joe II EST 0892 ES 3 1/100;26.7x3.91cm 12.00
Mercury Redstone EST 1921 ES 4 1/35; 28.75x2.0in 20.00
Patriot EST 2056 ES 2 1/10 (semi);54x4.16cm 10.00
Saturn 1B EST 2048 ES 4 1/100;67.2x6.65cm 42.00
Saturn V 25th Anv. EST 2001 ES 4+ 1/100; 109.9x10.0cm 53.00
Sidewinder TR108 MRC 2 1/4 (sport);30.28x1.325
Titan IIIE(1) EST 2019 ES 4 1/73; 71.1x5.64cm 26.00/19.00
You say you like scale models, but want something BIGGER?? Try one of
these:
AMRAAM PML 4 56x3in 80.00
AMRAAM PML 4+ 73x4.0in 100.00
Astrobee D 89015 AT 4 1/2.5; 173x6.7cm 70.00
Hawk CLR 4+ 4.0" diam.; 54mm 78.00
HV Arcas 89012 AT 3+ 1/1.666; 142x6.7cm 50.00
Jayhawk CLR 4+ 4.0" diam; 38mm 58.00
Patriot PML 4+ 1/2; 97x7.5" 260.00
Sandhawk CLR 4+ 4.0" diam.; 54mm 93.00
Standard ARM CLR 4+ 4.0" diam.; 54mm 78.00
Standard ARM CLR 4+ 7.67" diam.; 5x54mm 245.00
Sandhawk CLR 4+ 5.54" diam.; 54 + 2x29mm 185.00
Navy Strike CLR 4+ 4.0" diam.; 54mm 93.00
Nomenclature Key:
SL = Skill Level (1 = Beginner, 5 = Advanced)
Prices are approximate retail prices in U.S. dollars
Man = Manufacturer (Refer to Part 02 for addresses)
AAA AAA Model Aviation
ASP Aerospace Specialty Products
AT Aerotech
BOY Boyce Aerospace Hobbies
CLR Cluster R
COS Cosmodrome Rocketry
ES Estes Industries
FSI Flight Systems Inc.
MSH Mountainside Hobbies
PML Public Missiles, Ltd.
Q Quest
SRW Seatle Rocket Works
THOY Tiffany Hobbies of Ypsilanti
TLP The Launch Pad
VBR Vaughn Brothers Rocketry
NOTES:
1. Dual prices reflect last full retail price and special 'closeout'
price offered by manufacturer. Kits with both prices may still
be found on hobby shelves.
--------------------------------------------------------------
7.5 O.K., I've done all my research, collected all the data I can.
I've even built a couple of scale kits a a warm up. Now I'm ready
to build a model I can be proud of. How do I...?
Get rid of body tube seams:
Use silkspan, applied with clear dope, or .5oz. - .75 oz. fiberglass
cloth applied with epoxy. Silkspan will require a number of
subsequent coats of dope or primer to seal the surface and fill in
the fibers of the material, while the fiberglass should only require
a few coats of primer to fill in the weave. Really deep seams in the
tube should filled with your favorite putty beforehand. Tubes covered
with silkspan/fiberglass will be less likely to have the seams pop
later on.
The suggestions given in part 06 and 11 are both useful and applicable.
Sand sharp break lines in fins with diamond cross sections, like those
used on Nike motors:
You can't...use a built-up fin instead. Use 1/64 ply or thin plastic.
Cut out mirror images of the fin pattern, then score the breakline
with the back of an Xacto knife, being careful not to cut all the way
through. Gently bend at the break line. Use a spar under the breakline
to provide support and give the proper root to tip thickness
distribution. Glue the three pieces (two fin halves and spar)
together, and fill the open ends with wood and/or putty.
Form sharp edges on nose cone, transitions, etc. (when turning your own):
The most common material to turn these items, wood (balsa, bass)
just won't take a very sharp edge. Try forming the piece slightly
undersize, then apply several coats of epoxy (try to get the coats
as even as possible). Then use a sanding block to sand the surface
smooth, but don't sand all the way down to the wood. These steps
should be done without removing the part from the lathe. The epoxy
will hold a better edge than wood, and the resulting surface will
have a plastic-like feel. Make sure the epoxy you use will cure to
a hard surface in thin films...5 minute epoxy often remains somewhat
rubbery.
Simulate weld lines:
Thread can be used, but something with a flatter cross-section
usually looks more realistic. Try cutting very narrow strips
of thin plastic using two X-acto or razor blades glued together (may
need a plastic spacer between the blades to get the desired width).
The width and thickness of the strip will of course depend on the
size of the weld to be simulated, but a 2:1 or 3:1 width:thickness
ratio is about right. Paint the model body tube with primer
let dry and apply the plastic strip with a _small_ amount of liquid
cement. Use a strip of frisk film or masking tape to provide an edge
to insure the plastic strip gets applied straight. Then apply several
coats of primer to fair in the edges, sanding between coats. If
AmSpam ever gets around to publishing it, a future "Art of Scale"
will cover this in more detail.
Simulate screws, bolts, and rivets:
For large-scale models, you may be able to find small screws in sizes
0-80 or 00-90 that will do the job that will do the job (Small Parts,
Inc, P.O. Box 4650, Miami Lakes, FL 33014-0650 is one source). On
smaller models you can simulate screws by embossing slots into Sig
"scale rivets" with an X-acto blade. Sig scale rivets are available in
both round and flat-head varieties (Sig Manufacturing Co., Inc., 401-7
South Front St., Montezuma, IA 50171). To simulate really tiny screws,
emboss the shafts of the scale rivets. Socket head screws can also be
simulated using scale rivets by drilling or punching a hole in the
center of the head. Rivets can be simulated in a variety of ways. On
large scale models, Sig scale rivets may be appropriate. For small
models, the best (and most difficult) way is to emboss thin sheet
material (aluminum or plastic) using a punch and die. This method gives
very sharp definition to the rivet heads. An easier way that produces
less definition of the rivet head is to simply punch from one side of
the sheet only - no matching die is used. This allows the use of a
small spur gear (e.g. a watch gear or pounce wheel) as the punch,
thereby allowing a whole row of rivets to be punched very easily.
A sewing machine can also be used to punch a whole row in short order -
just grind down a needle to produce the correct size rivet head. Model
airplane types often use tiny drops of glue to simulate the rivet
(RC56 glue supposedly works well).
Make multiple copies of parts:
Often, an number of identical parts appear on a prototype, and it is
usually tedious to make just one of them. RTV rubber is a two-part
rubber compound that cures at room temperature. Space does not allow
a detailed discussion of the method here, but basically a high-quality
master pattern is made, over which the RTV is poured. When cured,
the rubber mold is removed. Epoxy or urethane resin can then be
poured into the cavity to make as many copies as desired at a small
fraction of the work needed to make the master. Fiberglass parts can
also be laid up in RTV molds (another yet-to-be published AmSpam/SRM
article). Check out back issues of "Fine Scale Modeler" magazine
for a number or articles on casting parts in RTV molds. This is an
_extremely_ valuable technique for the serious modeler.
Refer to sections 06 and 11 for other relevant tips.
--------------------------------------------------------------
7.6 What tools do I need?
Well, that's kind of up to you....and your checkbook. With lots of
ingenuity and perseverance, many things can be done with simple tools.
For example, nose cones and transitions can be turned with just an
electric drill (small sized ones at any rate), but it's sure a lot
easier with a lathe (see Alway's book for details on turning with a
drill). An airbrush is almost a must to have, since even the cheapest
spray gun will (with practice) give a much better finish than a spray
can. Cans of propellant to operate an airbrush are available, but are
expensive in the long run; a portable air tank (found in many hardware
stores) could provide a refillable, cheap (free from service stations)
source of air for under $30. However, having a compressor is by far the
most convenient (if you live in a humid clime, you will also need a
moisture trap). Any precision scale work will require some measuring
tools, typically a steel ruler with 1/100 inch graduations and a
caliper are sufficient. Enco Mfg., a large machine tool supplier, offers
a line of low cost rulers and calipers. Their number is 1-800-873-3626.
Those who are really serious about scale modeling and have the $$$ to
spend may want to consider a small milling machine in addition to a
lathe (small lathes like the Sherline or Unimat offer an optional
milling column). With a lathe and mill, almost anything can be
fabricated, subject only to the skill of the operator and the size
of the machine.
--------------------------------------------------------------
7.7 Where can I get more information on modeling techniques?
Since scale modeling is such a small segment of model rocketry, there's
not much "how-to" info in the model rocket literature. Peter Alway gives
some basic, low-tech tips in his book. For more advanced techniques,
look in magazines for the plastic model enthusiast: "Scale Modeler" and
"Fine Scale Modeler" are two examples. Useful techniques also appear
occasionally in the model airplane model and ship magazines.
--------------------------------------------------------------
7.8 Got any tips for generating scale plans from original dimensions?
Peter Alway (PeteAlway@aol.com) suggests an old fashioned shortcut for
generating scale plans:
I find a slide rule is better than an electronic calculator for
scheming up scale models. You just set the proportion of prototype
diameter to a standard body tube diameter and slide the sliding
doohickey back and forth to find dimensions of all the other parts.
Jack Hagerty (jack@rml.com) counters with a more modern version:
Not to sound too snobby, but I have an even better way to make perfect
scale drawings of every piece AUTOMATICALLY. Use a CAD system. Even
the cheap ones (cheap meaning ~$100) usually have a scaling function.
On mine its one of the commands under the "Copy" function.
CAD systems don't care if the screen is a mile across or .01" across;
it's all just numbers. When I did my Titan IIIB, the sceen was set to
be about 2,000" across (the Titan/Agena is about 1,700" from tip to
the bottom of the engine bells). You just draw in all of the peices
from your prototype reference data full size. Then, when you're done,
you invoke the scale command to do essentially what Peter alluded to
above using the diameter of the prototype and diameter of the body
tube you're going to use to set your ratio.
Continuing my example, the Titan is 120" in diameter and I used Estes
BT-80 (2.62" dia) to build it. Once I had drawn the prototype I
invoked "Copy -> Scale -> 2.62/120 -> All" and presto! Every piece,
every conduit, every strut was now the correct scale size. I just
plotted it full scale on my plotter and I had the perfect layout
pattern.
Mark Bundick (mbundick@inil.com) adds:
Try using a spreadsheet. They are particularly useful in cases where
there are station numbers instead of actual dimensions in the drawing.
In column 1, enter the part name or dimension. In columns 2 and 3
enter the station numbers from drawing. In column 4, enter a formula
to take the difference between the figures in column 2 and 3. In
column 5, enter a formula to apply your scale factor to the figure in
column 4.
If you want to model in a different scale, just change your scale
factor and new dimensions are generated for every part you need on our
upscaled or downscaled bird. I find it particularly helpful to just
add different body diameters in different columns and then print out a
whole page of dimensions for various sized birds.
---------------------------------------
Copyright (c) 1996 Wolfram von Kiparski, editor.
Refer to Part 00 for the full copyright notice.
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