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Archive-name: boats-faq/sea-kayaking
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Last-modified: 12/04/00

Sea Kayaking Frequently Asked Questions:

Copyright 2000, Todd Leigh. Copyright applies to compilation and sections where
another author is not noted.  Authors where noted retain their copyrights.
Rights granted to copy as desired for non-profit activities.  All other rights
reserved.

Usually, questions, comments, criticisms, and other good advices are happily 
accepted.

None of the information in this FAQ will make you a good kayaker. None of it is
guaranteed to be correct, and much of it is subject to opinion. Take it for what
you paid for it.

Todd Leigh - FAQ compiler
toddleigh@hotmail.com

Thanks to: Chris Bell - suggestions
           Sam Crowley - history and hypothermia
           Ralph Diaz - folding kayaks
           George Dyson - history critique
           Jackie Fenton - good suggestions and hypertext formatting
           Alex Ferguson - history and good suggestions on everything else
           Edward Hasbrouck - airline baggage restrictions
           Preston Holmes - hypertext formatting and web posting
           Bob Myers - suggestions, faq submission criteria, invaluable aid
           Kirk Olsen - suggestions
           Nick Schade - kayak building and kits
           Greg Stamer - history critique and suggestions

Note the inclusion of a controversial topics section. Please don't send me email
to argue about these. Constructive criticism will be accepted though.

If you want to add references, please include publisher information. If anyone 
can fill in the publisher information that's missing currently, please send 
email.

If you know of a club, outfitter, or manufacturer that should be listed, send a 
blurb in the format shown, and I'll add it. Same with places to paddle.

This FAQ is not currently available on FTP.  If anyone out there can host it on
an FTP site, please let me know.  Thanks to California Kayak Friends for many 
years of hosting.

On the Web, the URL is:
http://siolibrary.ucsd.edu/preston/kayak/sfaq/credits.html

or
http://www.gasp-seakayak.org/faq/credits.html

********************************************************************************

Section 1: Buying a Boat

What is the best boat?

Every boat is different and there is no best boat for all paddling conditions. 
Any boat is a trade off, features that work well in one set of conditions can 
compromise performance/handling in another set of conditions. You have to know 
what type of paddling conditions you want to paddle in before selecting a boat.

Multi-day expeditions dictate a different boat than morning explorations of an
estuary or surf-zone excitement or teaching others to kayak.

One fundamental trade-off in boat design is tracking vs. turning. Generally a 
boat that tracks well (goes straight) does not turn as well as a boat that does 
not track well. There are varying degrees of these two characteristics in all 
boats, and some boats that track well can be made to turn better if you are 
willing and able to lean them when you turn, but if you're going to be turning a
lot, buy a boat that turns, if you are going straight all day, buy a boat that 
tracks.

Another characteristic to consider is the initial stability of the boat. Initial
(or primary) stability is the ease with which a boat starts to tip. Low initial 
stability will make the boat feel 'tender' or 'tippy'. A boat that is tender to 
sit in is going to be much more difficult to fish or take pictures out of, so if
that's what you want to do, consider a boat with more initial stability. A boat 
with very high initial stability will be more difficult to handle in big waves, 
because it will tend to try to sit flat relative to the water rather than the 
horizon. The consequences of this tendency are left as an exercise for the 
reader.

Another thing to consider is the final stability of the boat. Final (or 
secondary) stability is the ease with which the boat tips all the way over. High
final stability is desirable for any boat, but it may take some time to develop 
the balance and skill to take advantage of it.

Paddlers are all different. A boat will perform/handle differently for a tall
person than for a short person, and for a heavy person than a light person. The
fit of the cockpit will vary from boat to boat. A person's requirements for a 
boat may change as the person's skill level changes. Often, a person with 
advanced skills will be interested in different boat features than a person with
beginner/intermediate skills.

********

Should I start in a 'beginner' boat, or should I buy an 'expert' boat and hope I
can 'grow' into it?

Often people want to purchase a boat they can 'grow into'. This implies a 
distinction between boats that are comfortable for beginners and boats that are 
comfortable for experts.

The biggest perceived difference in 'beginner' boats vs. 'expert' boats is in 
initial stability. 'Expert' boats generally have lower initial stability than 
'beginner' boats, and 'beginner' boats often increase initial stability at the 
expense of final stability. Advanced paddlers generally want a boat with high 
final stability because it is needed in more difficult sea conditions. Advanced 
paddlers (and beginners) also want a fast boat, and in many boats initial 
stability is traded off for speed.

If, as a beginner, you are willing to put up with some uneasy sensations early 
in your paddling career, you may wish to purchase an 'expert' boat and 'grow 
into' it, assuming the 'expert' boat has some other characteristics that you 
find desirable. Keep in mind that low initial stability, the hallmark of 
'expert' boats, is not a desirable characteristic in and of itself. Find a boat 
that you like, and think you will continue to like as you become a better 
kayaker, and purchase that boat. If it happens to be a boat that is outside of 
your comfort level now, ask yourself honestly if it will ever be in your comfort
level, and either purchase it now and put up with the difficulties, or 
rent/borrow boats until you are comfortable in your dream boat, then buy it.

Don't buy a boat just because someone tells you it is an 'expert' boat. Find out
what you like in a boat and use your own judgement in your purchase.

Do not confuse how many years a person has been paddling with advanced skills. A
person's skills will only increase if they work at increasing them.

********

Should I get plastic, fiberglass, wood, fabric or something more exotic?

Plastic is heavier, more resistant to damage, harder to repair.

Fiberglass is lighter, easier to repair, results in finer lines, but is more
expensive. Fiberglass is generally more rigid than plastic, which can result in
a faster boat.

Wood is labor intensive but relatively easy to build (a little less labor 
intensive if built from a kit), light, easy to repair, needs maintenance. There 
are also a few companies that manufacture wood/epoxy-construction kayaks, but
they tend to be more expensive.

Fabric is labor intensive to build though a little less so than wood, fragile, 
and needs maintenance.

Folding boats are a form of fabric boat that collapses for transport/storage. 
They are generally more expensive to buy than any other kind of boat, but there
are other considerations that may make them a better overall value. See section
5, folding kayaks, for more information.

Inflatable boats tend to be much less expensive than any other sort of boat.

Rigid boats may perform better than folding or inflatable boats. Folding and 
inflatable boats have the advantage of easier portability and storage. If you 
plan to travel with your boat, a folding or inflatable boat will be easier to 
get on airliners. If your home is tight on storage space, a folding/inflatable 
boat will be easier to store than a rigid boat.

More exotic materials (like kevlar, carbon fiber) tend to be lighter and
costlier.

********

How should the boat fit?

You can pad any boat, but it should fit you fairly well to begin with. Your
contact points with the boat are your feet, your knees (on the underside of the
deck), your hips (on the sides of the seat), and your butt (on the seat). Some
boats fit big people better, some are better for small folks. The size of your
feet is a consideration too. In general, a sea kayak needs to be comfortable
because you are going to be in it all day, perhaps without a break. Some people
prefer a looser fit in a sea kayak than in a whitewater boat, allowing space to
stretch and move about.

Another thing to consider is cockpit size. A larger cockpit can make it easier 
for a person to enter and exit a boat. A smaller cockpit is preferred by some 
because it is considered more watertight.

********

How should the boat be rigged?

Deck lines that run along the edges of the deck from the bow to the stern are
important safety equipment. Bungies that cross the deck in front of and behind 
the cockpit are handy for stowing gear where it is easy to reach. Some paddlers
prefer to have built-in compasses and pumps in their boats. Tow systems may be 
necessary for aiding other paddlers.

Different boats come with different kinds of deck rigging. Anything it doesn't 
have that you want you will have to add. Are you willing to go to that trouble?

********

How big of a boat do I need?

The volume of the boat you need is dependent on how much stuff you are going to 
carry in it, and on how big you are (see 'fit' above). Overnight trips do not 
need as large a boat as week-long outings. You can, of course, pack light and 
get more stuff in a smaller boat (heck, Paul Caffyn has done some monstrously 
long trips in a Nordkapp, not the largest volume boat that's available out 
there), but for some people part of the joy of sea kayaking is in the amount of 
(luxurious) stuff they can bring. If that's you, you need a bigger boat. A 
bigger boat will also be easier to paddle in bigger seas than a smaller boat. 
Also, the way the volume of the boat is distributed is important in dictating 
how the boat handles, as more bow (and stern) volume helps to prevent the bow or
stern of the boat from diving into the trough of waves in surf.

********

Should I get a single or double?

Single kayaks provide greater maneuverablity than doubles. Doubles can be faster
than singles. Doubles may be able to carry more gear, but keep in mind that they
need to carry more than twice as much gear for this to be true. A double will 
require the use of a rudder to steer. A double on a trip can provide an 
ill/injured person with a safer place to sit than in a single being towed. Some 
doubles are more stable than a single but will be more difficult to rescue and 
pump dry.

********

What kind of hatches should I get?

There are lots of different hatch designs out there. Considerations when looking
at hatches are watertightness, resistance to breakage, and size. If you want to 
bring the kitchen sink, you'd better not just have a 9 inch round hatch. 
Consider also that heavy seas and surf can break or blow off hatch covers, so 
consider how they are attached to avoid losing them, and don't depend on them 
for floatation of the boat. If the compartments aren't full of gear, use float 
bags.

********

Will I have enough cargo space?

Cargo space is related to size of the boat, but also to position of the 
bulkheads (if there are any). The cockpit can also be used for cargo, but keep 
in mind that it may not stay dry, it may impede your exit if that becomes 
necessary, and it may fall out if you do exit. Keep in mind also that a leaky 
hatch or bulkhead may compromise the watertight cargo compartments, and pack 
accordingly.

Some sort of floatation is required for safe paddling.  A "proper" sea boat 
should either have bulkheads that you can rely on for integrity and
water-tightness, or the space forward and aft of the cockpit should be filled
with secured floatation. Keep in mind that float bags take up stowage space and 
that stores by themselves don't fill the "holes".  A sea sock is a valuable
added safety measure in a boat without bow and stern bulkheads.

Almost all plastic boats have bulkheads that leak. The leaks can be repaired
temporarily, but they will eventually start leaking again. Leaking bulkheads can
compromise the safety provided by the added bouyancy of the watertight 
compartments. Expect to spend some time patching the leaks with a plastic boat.

********

Do I need a rudder?

This is one of sea kayaking's religious debates.

You might need a rudder to go straight, or the boat might need a rudder to go
straight, or you might just want a rudder so you don't have to worry about 
steering. Look for a design that is durable, easily stowed, and which has a 
footbrace design you can live with. Like rigging, this is something you can 
modify if you are willing to do the work. An alternative to a rudder is a skeg, 
either permanent or retractable, which is basically a fixed rudder. It will not 
help steer, but it will help go straight. Both rudders and skegs are subject to 
breakage/jamming. In many rudder systems, a failure may result in losing support
from your foot braces. A properly designed rudder should be able to stand up to 
a lot of abuse including resting the kayak on end on it.

A rudder should not be necessary for you to control your kayak, and you should
learn proper kayaking technique without the rudder becoming a crutch.

Two boat characteristics that a rudder or skeg can help with are the boat's 
tendency to weathercock, and the boat's tendency to broach.

Weathercocking occurs when there is a wind in the front quarter or beam of the
boat. Because of their aerodynamics/hydrodynamics, many boats will tend to try
to turn into a wind when they are moving forward because the bow of the boat is 
held in place by the bow wave generated by the boat's forward movement, while 
the stern is free to pivot. A boat that weathercocks is safer than one in which
the bow is blown downwind as it is very difficult to turn a boat with this
characteristic into the wind.

Broaching is the boat's tendency to turn sideways to a wave coming from the 
stern or rear quarter of the boat. This happens because the water in waves is 
moving more slowly in the trough of the wave than at the crest, making the stern
of the boat try to 'catch up' to the bow.

********

How much of a consideration is the weight of the boat?

If you need to haul the boat on and off the top of the car, carry it any 
distance, or portage, this is an important characteristic. Lighter boats also 
tend to feel livelier in the water and are faster, although this is not as much 
of a consideration when you've got 300 pounds of boater and gear in the boat. In
general, plastic is heavier than fiberglass is heavier than exotic materials 
like kevlar, carbon fiber, etc., but there are exceptions.

********

How important is the durability of the boat's construction?

If you want to drag your boat over rocks or drop it off a pier, this is an
important consideration, but even if you don't abuse your boat, it wears in 
normal usage as well, so consider durability in your selection. In general, 
plastic stands up to abuse better than fiberglass, but is harder to repair. Keep
in mind that in fiberglass construction, heavier is not necessarily stronger.

********

How much should I spend on a boat? (USA prices)

Buy a boat you can afford, but if you find a boat you really like which is too
expensive, it may be worthwhile to save your pennies until you can afford it. If
you have a fixed price range you are interested in, it may be a good idea to 
only try boats in that price range, so you are satisfied with what you get. 
Plastic boats run $700-$1500, Fiberglass $1300-$2800, other materials tend to 
cost more. Sometimes you can find boats sold used for less, especially if a shop
or outfitter is selling old boats from their rental fleet.

********

What should I look for when I'm trying a boat out?

The best way to choose a boat, and the only way to determine its paddling 
characteristics, is to try it, and you should take opportunities to try as many 
boats as you can to decide what you like. Many shops have demo days, and 
symposia are good opportunities to try boats. Try to find an opportunity to 
paddle in the conditions you are planning on using the boat in. Also, consider 
how the boat handles when it is loaded as well as unloaded. Things to think 
about when you are trying the boat are:

Does it feel comfortable just sitting in it?

Lean the boat onto it's side. Does it stop leaning or keep going and tip over?
Is there a point where the resistance to leaning increases?

Paddle the boat into the wind, across the wind, with the wind behind you. How 
easy is it to keep on course? Does it turn into the wind (weathercocking) or out
of the wind excessively? How fast is it?

How easy is the boat to turn?

These things test some of the fundamental characteristics of boat handling:

Speed - a function of length, width, and hull shape.
Tracking - ability of the boat to go straight.
Maneuverability - ability of the boat to turn easily.
Initial or primary stability - effort it takes to lean the boat off of an 
                               upright position.
Final or secondary stability - effort it takes to tip the boat over.

Typical trade-offs:

Tracking vs. Maneuverability
Initial vs. Final Stability
Speed vs. Stability

********************************************************************************

Section 2: Learning to Sea Kayak

How do I learn to kayak?

There are lots of options:

1. Buy a boat, take it out and paddle, teach yourself from harsh experience.
   Books and some videos are available. See the list at the end of the FAQ.  
   Seidman's _The Essential Sea Kayaker_ and Foster's _Sea Kayaking_ are 
   particularly good for beginners.  This can be a dangerous way to go.

2. Go on a guided trip. Most outfitters provide guides, equipment, and 
   instruction.

3. Take a class. Many shops that sell sea kayaks have an instructional program.
   The American Canoe Association and other national paddlesport organizations 
   also offer sea kayak instruction.

4. Join a local club and paddle with some experienced paddlers. Many clubs offer
   some level of kayak instruction.

********

Am I ready to go kayaking on my own?

Turing test for sea kayaking, or, are you ready to do a coastal kayaking trip on
your own?

These questions are not intended to tell anyone that they can or can't go out 
kayaking on their own. They are simply a quick survey of the knowledge/skills 
that are helpful in coastal kayaking. You have to decide for yourself what you 
are capable of.

Equipment
   Do you own your own boat(s)?
   What kind? 
   What size/kind of hatches does it have?
   Does it have watertight bulkheads?
   What sort of deck rigging has your boat got?
   Does it have a rudder?
   Can you fix your boat if it breaks?
   Do you have a spare paddle? 
   Do you have a paddle float?
   A pump?

Loading and Camping
   Have you ever paddled a loaded boat?
   Have your ever loaded a boat?
   What sort of camping equipment do you own?
   How comfortable are you camping in bad weather conditions?

Cold Water
   Have you ever dealt with cold water conditions?
   What kind of paddling clothes do you have to deal with cold water?
   What are the effects of cold shock?
   Do you know how to prevent it?
   What are the symptoms of hypothermia?
   What about hyperthermia?

Travelling in Seas
   Do you know how far you can travel in a day with a loaded boat? 
   How about in a headwind? 
   How about with following seas?
   Do you know your limits with respect to wind/weather/sea conditions you are 
   comfortable paddling in, or have you only paddled calm seas?
   Would you know when it is not safe to paddle?
   Have you ever paddled in surf?
   Do you know how wind/weather/topography/tides affect sea conditions? 

Signalling
   Do you own a weather radio?
   How about a marine VHF 2-way radio?
   Do you know different ways to signal for help if you need it?
   What types of signalling equipment do you own?

Rescues
   Do you know how to reenter your boat with or without assistance should you 
   tip over and have to exit?
   What sea conditions are you capable of doing this in?
   Have you ever tipped over and exited your boat?
   Do you have a roll?
   How are your braces?

Navigation
   Can you navigate in a kayak if you can't see your destination? 
   Do you own a compass?
   Hand held or deck mount?
   Do you know how to use a nautical chart and protractor?
   Do you know how to correct for magnetic declination?
   How do you decide when not to go?

Tides and Tidal Currents
   What do you know about tides and tidal currents?
   How do they affect sea conditions?

Injury
   Do you know what to do if someone gets hurt?
   Are you prepared to tow?

Experience
   Have you ever taken a coastal kayaking class?
   Have you ever gone on an extended kayaking trip?

********************************************************************************

Section 3: Equipment

The essentials - 
boat
paddle
sprayskirt
PFD : personal flotation device (life jacket)

safety gear - 
spare paddle
bilge pump
paddle float
weather radio
emergency shelter and rations
first aid kit
tow system
helmet for surf conditions

signalling - 
flares : handheld and aerial
smoke canister
flag
mirror
whistle
flashlight
marine VHF radio
strobe
EPIRB

navigation - 
compass : hand-held and deck-mounted
charts
chart cover
course protractor
tide charts and tables
wristwatch

clothing - 
paddling jacket
wetsuit
drysuit
polyester, nylon, or wool insulating garments if it's cold or the water is cold
cotton garments for cooling/sun protection if it's hot and the water is warm
headwear : balaclava, beanie, or neoprene hood, sun hat, rain hat, etc.
handwear : gloves or pogies
footwear : booties, neoprene socks, aquasocks, sandals, rubber boots, etc.

camping - 
sleeping bags
sleeping pads
tents or bivy sacks
stoves
pots and pans
dry bags for gear stowage
etc.

********************************************************************************

Section 4: Sea Kayak Construction
Author: Nick Schade

How do I build a kayak?

Strip-built (SB) and Stitch & Glue (S&G) are two methods of home-building a 
kayak. There are also several methods of constructing "traditional" skin covered
kayaks, some other techniques for plywood, and you can also use a mold. One 
method of building skin and frame boats is described here.  Other methods may be
added to the FAQ at a later date.

Strip Built Vs. Stitch & Glue:
The two building processes SB and S&G are quite different. In SB you bend narrow
strips around a form. With S&G there is no form. You take shaped plywood panels,
stitch them edge-to-edge, then glue them together. What this means is that with 
SB you can make smooth rounded shapes. With S&G you end up with angles running 
lengthwise for a "hard-chined" shape. Both shapes are good. Some people prefer a
hard-chined boat.

Neither method produces a "better" boat. Strip Built gives more design freedom 
(you can make it hard-chined if desired.), and looks nicer (plywood looks 
alright but strips of cedar, redwood and pine are beautiful). SB can make a 
lighter weight boat but S&G can also be light. 

S&G is easier. There is less setup involved and somewhat easier finish work.

The Process:
The following are outlines for each process:

                        STRIP-BUILT
=======================================================
The basic process for a strip built kayak is this:
1. Draw out the forms full size,
2. Paste the drawings to cheap plywood,
3. Cut out the forms using the saber-saw or band-saw,
4. Cut a hole in the middle of the forms,
5. String the forms on a straight two-by-four,
6. Lay 3/4" x 1/4" strips on the forms and staple in place,
7. Add strips, gluing edge to edge, and stapling,
8. When stripped all the way around, pull the staples,
9. Plane smooth,
10. Sand smoother,
11. Fiber-glass the outside,
12. Remove the shell from the forms in two halves (deck and hull),
13. Plane and sand the inside,
14. Fiber-glass the inside,
15. Glue the deck and hull back together,
16. Sand,
17. Varnish, go to 16 and repeat until bored,
18. Paddle.

This process shouldn't take more than three months. The weight of these boats 
with a good protective layer of glass is 45 lbs or less. Materials cost about 
$300 US total.

                    STITCH AND GLUE
=======================================================
The basic process for Stitch & Glue is:
1. "Scarf" together several pieces of plywood (Make one big sheet out of several
   4x8 sheets)
2. Draw the parts full-sized on the plywood.
3. Cutout the parts.
4. Drill small holes along the edges of the parts ever 3" to 5".
5. With wire "stitch" the panels for the hull together through the drilled 
   holes.
6. Glue the interior seams with a "fillet" of thickened resin covered with
   'glass tape.
7. repeat 5 & 6 for the deck.
8. Bond together the deck and hull in a similar manner.
9. Cut the wires and pull them out or sand them down.
10. "Radius" the corners.
11. Glass the outside. (optional but recommend on the bottom)
12. Sand and Paint.
13. Paddle.

This process takes about 1 to 1 1/2 months worth of weekends and evenings. 
Weight with glass on the bottom is about 40 lbs. Material cost about $200 US.

                   SKIN AND FRAME
=======================================================
The basic process for Skin and Frame is:
1. Cut two gunwhale pieces, symmetrical about the grain, from a 16ft. plank.
2. Cut and plane an identical angle in both ends of the two pieces so that when 
   they are placed in a 'boat' shape, they meet flat.
3. Tie the ends together and establish your shear-line shape by putting spacers
   between the two pieces. Peg the ends of the gunwhales together.
4. Cut about 12-15 deck supports to hold the shape of gunwhales. One serves as
   a footbrace, one is right behind the cockpit as a back support, and the two 
   in front of the cockpit should be arched to provide knee room and easy entry.
   Peg or mortice-tenon these supports in and lash them to the gunwhales.
5. Cut slots in the bottom of the gunwhales for ribs.
6. Cut stem and stern pieces from a plank. These should meet the gunwhales 
   smoothly and provide an attachment point for the keel. Lash them to the
   gunwhales.
7. Steam, cut, and bend ribs. The ribs will establish the bottom shape of the 
   hull. Peg the ribs into the gunwhales if desired.
8. Cut chine stringers and a keel piece to fit, peg to the ribs if desired, peg
   and lash to the stem and stern pieces.
9. Skin the boat with your choice of material.
10. Cut and bend a cockpit coaming, sew it to the skin.
11. Paint the skin to waterproof it if necessary.
12. Paddle.

This is obviously a much-simplified list of steps. It takes about 100 hours to
build a boat this way, about 3 months of weekends. Weight is less than 40 
pounds. Material cost is about $200 US.

********

Where can I get a kit to build a kayak?

Strip Built:
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Guillemot Kayaks

Nick Schade
10 Ash Swamp Rd, Apt I
Glastonbury, CT 06033
Phone: (860)659-8847
Internet: info@Guillemot-Kayaks.com
http://www.guillemot-kayaks.com/

- Unique performance kayaks. 7 designs and growing
- Sea kayak plans and kits,
- Spooned & feathered paddle plan
- send $2 for more info

--------------------------

the Newfound Woodworks

RFD #2 Box 850
Bristol, NH 03222
Phone: (603)744-6872
Internet: sales@newfound.com
http://www.newfound.com/

- Kayak and Canoe kits
- Cove and bead strips
- Epoxy and glass

--------------------------

Bruce Winterbon

RR 1 Deep River,Ont.
Canada
K0J 1P0
Phone: (613)584-3930
Internet: bk850@FreeNet.Carleton.CA

- plans for double-paddle canoe
- boat design program for PC
- polyester resin, glass cloth, footrests,...

--------------------------

Henry (Mac) McCarthy

1705 Andera Place
Sarasota, Fl 34235
Phone:(813) 953-7660

- Wee Lassie

--------------------------

Outer Island Kayak

c/o Jason Designs
230 East Main St.
Branford, CT 06405
Phone:(203) 481-6815

- 1 West Greenland style design

--------------------------

DR Designs

821 Dock St. #3-6
Tacoma, Washington 98402

- four models, patterns and instructions

--------------------------

Minnesota Canoe Association

P.O. Box 13567
Dinkytown Station
Minneapolis, MN 55414

- instructions & plans
- canoes & kayaks

--------------------------

Laughing Loon

Rob Macks
833N Colrain Rd.
Greenfield, MA 01301
Phone: (413)773-5375
Internet: laughing_loon@shaysnet.com
http://www.shaysnet.com/~robm/

- Kayaks and Canoes

--------------------------

Loon Kayaks

HCR 32 Box 253
Semasco Estates, ME 04565
Phone: (207)389-1565

- Several models

--------------------------

Redwing Designs

John Winters
Box 283
Burk's Falls, Ont
P0A 1C0
Canada
Internet: jwinters@ONLINK.NET
http://www.onlink.net/~jwinters/index.htm

- Kayaks and Canoes

--------------------------


Stitch and Glue:
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Chesapeake Light Craft, Inc.

1805 George Avenue
Annapolis, MD 21401
Phone: (410)267-0137
Internet: kayaks@clcinc.com
http://www.clcboats.com

- About 10 Models
- kits, plans, and finished boats
- Ocoume Plywood
- epoxy, fiberglass, hardware, seats, rudders
- other stuff for kayak builders

--------------------------

Glen-L Marine

9152 Rosecrans Ave.
PO Box 1804WA
Bellflower, CA 90706
Phone: (562)630-6258
FAX: (562)630-6280
Internet: info@glen-l.com
http://www.glen-l.com

- A 17' Touring Sea Kayak-one person(stitch-n-glue)
- 19'9" Sea Kayak Two-two person (s&g also)
- 13' or 15' Flat bottom kayak (standard sawn frame construction)
- 12' or 14' Canoe/Kayak "Can-Yak" (standard sawn frame construction)
- 9' Kid's kayak "Kid-Yak" (s&g)

--------------------------

Rob Bryan

Kennebec Designs
P.O. Box 475
Woolwich, ME 04579

- Seguin

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Spring Harbor Kayak Company

5156 Spring Court
Madison, WI 53705

- Ganymede (single)
- Gemini (double)

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Pygmy Sea Kayaks

P.O. Box 1529
227 Jackson St.
Port Townsend, WA 98368
Phone: (360)385-6143
Fax: (360)379-0227
Internet: pygmy@mail.olympus.net
http://www.pygmyboats.com/index.htm

- Multichine kits

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John D Teitsheid

Star Rt 2, Box 175
Crescent City, FL 32112

- Double paddle canoe

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Hudson Canoe

14 Hillside Avenue
Croton, NY 10520
Phone: (914)271-5387

- Angmassalik

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Jim Michalak

118 E. Randle

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