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elderberries can be toxic.

The short answer is NO. People have been making and drinking it for a
long time without adverse effects -- at least, not beyond the expected
ones from overconsumption. :)

If I remember correctly, you must be careful about which parts of the
plant you may use in order to avoid using the toxic parts. Use the
berries only.

Elderberry wine recipes can be found, among other places, at:

ftp://ftp.cam.org/users/malak/wine/

Rhubarb is safe for winemaking as well, though care must be taken to
cut off and dispose of the leaves as the leaves only contain oxalic
acid which is toxic; as a sidebar, the leaves may be boiled up in water
and used as an ecofriendly pesticide.

G39. KOSHER WINES/WINEMAKING/BEER/BEERMAKING

I (Don Buchan) contacted Rabbi Jaffe at the Jewish Community Council in
Montreal and asked him about making kosher wines and beers.

Rabbi Jaffe told me that as long as the wine or beer is made by a Jew
with no non-Jewish contact it is considered to be kosher. Nothing
special needs to be added or done.

As a non-Jew, I would surmise that any cleanliness practices that may
exist in Kosher law would also have be to be practiced, though Rabbi
Jaffe did not mention this nor do I know for certain.

If you (as a Jew) follow all the cleanliness suggestions in this FAQ,
you should be able to consider your wine or beer to be kosher.

Rabbi Jaffe also told me that all domestic (Canadian, and presumably
American) beers are considered to be kosher.

Note that this all sounds contradicting since the lines are not drawn
as to where
begin with the growing of the ingredients or only with the actual
production of the wine, etc., as well as not defining where it has to
stop. I (Don again) have been told that it starts at the growing of
the ingredients and continues to even the serving of the wine.

The following is a synopsis of an article from the March 24, 1991 Los
Angeles Times by Dan Berger about Kosher wines.

1. Standard kosher wine: Standard kosher wine has to be produced in its
entirety by observant Jews. Even the spigot has to be turned by an
observant Jew to draw a tasting sample. Standard kosher wine may be
consumed by any (Sabbath) observant (orthodox) Jewish person, but it
loses its kosher certification if it is opened and served by a non-
observant Jew.

2. Mevushal wine. Mevushal wine has to be heated to a specified
temperature. It remains kosher no matter who serves it. Weinstock
Cellars heats the grape juice prior to fermentation to 170F and then
chills it again instantly.

I would recommend that if you need to absolutely certain that your wine
or beer is kosher, consult your Rabbi before starting your batch.

G40. WHAT AMOUNT OF GRAPES SHOULD BE USED?

{Someone is being generous enough to give me some wine grapes and I
need to know what amount I need to make five gallons.}

It is suggested that 100 lbs. (45.36 kg) of red grapes (ie., grapes to
be pressed after fermentation) and 125 lbs. (56.70 kg) of white grapes
(pressing at or near time of crush) for 5 gallons of finished wine in
the bottle. These quantities usually produce two or three bottles more
than five gallons, but you then will be sure to have enough to stay in
a five gallon carboy throughout the process even with a bit of spillage
and sloppy racking. These recommendations assume that you are using a
conventional stemmer-crusher and something like a basket press.

It depends upon the kind of grape, the vintage (annual variance in
cluster size and juiciness), how hard you press the must, if you barrel
or not (if so for how long), etc.

A rough number is 32 pounds of red wine grapes per 12 bottle case of
finished wine.

* with red wines, you can figure that 1 Ton (2000 lbs.) produces 200
gallons of crush for primary fermentation.
* 200 gallons of crush presses out to be about 160 to 170 gallons of
raw wine.
* 1 year's worth of barreling, racking, and evaporative losses (through
barrel staves) results in about 90% of this making it to the bottling
line (i.e., about 150 gallons per ton).
* there are 5 X 750 ml bottles per gallon, or 2.4 gallons per 12 bottle
case.
* so, 62.5 cases per ton of red wine grapes is the planning figure I
get.
* 2000 pounds divided by 62.5 cases = 32 pounds per case of red.

White wines will require more pounds of grapes per case of wine, about
42 pounds per case.

* with white wines, you can figure that 1 Ton (2000 lbs.) produces 125
gallons of crush for primary fermentation (if you avoid pressing too
hard -- i.e. over 1 atm of pressure).
* all else is roughly the same (racking, barreling, evap. loss, etc.)
ending with about 112 gallons at the bottling line, or about 47 cases.
* so, 47 cases per ton of white wine grapes is the planning figure I
get.
* 2000 pounds divided by 47 cases = 42 pounds per case of white wine.

G41. HOW CAN I CONTACT PRESQUE ILE WINE CELLARS OR ANYONE ELSE?

This is not a commercial endorsement by the editor/compilor or most (if
not all) of the contributors.

Presque Isle Wine Cellars
9440 Buffalo Rd
North East PA 16428 USA
Voice 1 814 725 1314
Fax 1 814 725 2092
prwc&erie.net (&=@)
Orders can be called in at 1 800 488 7492.

For other suppliers, check:

http://alpha.rollanet.org/infobase/supplierlist/SupplierList.html

G42. DOES ANYBODY HAVE A RECIPE FOR {INSERT WINE TYPE HERE}?

Check

ftp://ftp.cam.org/users/malak/wine/

I've been archiving virtually all the recipes posted in r.c.w. since
about September '95.

Archive policy:

>the files contain many many recipes, some of which are problem postings
>asking for help. I was looking more for a recipe which someone has
>perfected and is really happy about and wouldn't mind sharing.

Many of the recipes that end up in the archive present themselves in the
form of "Here's what I did, do you think I did it right?" or "What did I
do wrong?"

While in the 00INDEX.TXT file there is an explicit disclaimer on the
fitness of the recipes in the archive, by virtue of their being there
there is an implicit "nod of Don's head" that they should work, without
even attempting to guess at what may be wrong; a good part of that
implicit nod further implies a degree of understanding of winemaking,
this required level occasionally varying greatly from one recipe to the
next.

Which is why there are sometimes a dozen or more recipes of each kind;
by reading through each you start getting a feel for how to go about
things and see the basic trends required for each kind of wine. When
things contradict, you can always ask the originator of the recipe, if
their email address hasn't changed, or ask the group, or check in this
FAQ.

Other places to check:

http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/chris_browning
ftp://ftp.stanford.edu/pub/clubs/homebrew/beer/
(gopher) wiretap.spies.com | Wiretap Online Library/Articles | Food and
Drink | Mead Recipes
http://alpha.rollanet.org/
http://www.tiac.net/users/drbeer/BeesLees.txt
http://www.alcasoft.com/renfrow/
http://www.geocities.com/NapaValley/Vineyard/1762/wine.html

G43. REMOVING CARBONATION FROM WINE

The easiest way to remove carbonation is to filter your wine using a
vacuum pump to force the wine through your filter pads. This is done by
means of attaching the pump to a glass carboy with an adapted bung that
has an in and out tube -- one which leads to the vacuum pump and one
that comes from the filter. The filter system then has tubing that
connects to the carboy and another leading into it to which you attach
your J-tube that you place in your wine.

The pump creates a relative vacuum that creates the necessary pressure
differences to force the wine through the filters and, since the lower
pressure is subatmospheric, any carbonation in solution comes out in
the process.

You can also attach a vacuum pump directly to the carboy of wine but
this may create the possibility of overfoaming.

If you don't have access to this system, vigourously stir your wine for
5 minutes a day after fermentation but before clearing for three days.
You can also attach a carboy cleaning brush to a drill and, putting the
brush into the wine, turn the drill on low for a few seconds at a time.

Bulk aging and a couple of rackings will also get rid of almost all
carbonation.

{I transferred it to the secondary and by day 12 the bubbling has
pretty well stopped and the SG is just above 0.990. My question is
whether or not I should stabilize and de-gas it now or wait 10 days or
so like the instuctions suggest?}

This is a great question because it illustrates how winemaking is a
complex psychological process as well as a fermentative one. There is a
lot of activity at the start of making wine, all the more so in seasons
when grapes have to be crushed under threatening skies. Even in a kit,
wine fermentation is rapid at first and requires close attention. We
all tend to get a bit caught up in the process at that stage, but with
experience we learn that it slows down all by itself, that there is a
natural progression to things that starts with a dizzying rush of
alcohol and carbon dioxide and then leads to settled torpor. You learn
that a few days more or less on the lees is usually no great matter,
that air contact is both good and bad, that kit wines are fairly
insensitive but by the same token somewhat indistinct, especially as
compared to fruit wines.

In general, time is one of the greatest resources available to the
winemaker. It could even be said that most winemaking techniques exist
to create more time for the wine to develop its potential. Otherwise,
we'd just let the grapes ferment, wait a couple of days, and then
yahoo! What is sulphite except a way to buy time against oxidation and
bacterial instability? Time spent in maceration extracts tannins that
take increasing time to age. We allow time for clearing and
stabilization, perhaps we allow extended time for lees contact, or time
in barrel to pick up oak flavors, time to recover from bottling, and
time in bottle to age.

To answer the question as stated, it's probably best to just stay with
the program. Things are going fine, so why make short of a good thing?
It's going to taste better after a few months anyway.

G44. CLEANING OUT DIRTY BOTTLES, CARBOYS AND THE LIKE

After a while, it is quite possible that your glass carboys in
particular, your plastic containers and other pieces of equipment have
a light, white coating. This is typically scale. While completely
harmless in and of itself to your wine, what it can do is harbour dirt
and/or spoilage organisms that may be hard to remove by usual rinsing
and cleaning techniques, including the use of chlorine bleach.

To get rid of this, you can do any of the following:

A) Use vinegar. This may only be partially effective as your wine is
already an acidic environment, and you may need to use a lot of vinegar
for it to be effective.
B) Ask your supplier for a food grade phosphate based cleaner
specifically designed for this, and let it sit in your container for a
few days, then rinse it thoroughly several times before putting wine in
it.
C) Go to a hardware store and get some tri-sodium phospate. Use
according to the instructions and let soak for a few days.
D) Put some small pebbles or white sand sold for aquaria along with soap 
and shake it vigourously.

G45. Why am I getting headaches?

It has to do with histamines and NOT with sulphite. This of course
assumes that you aren't referring to a headache from overconsumption. :)

G46. I want to make some Sherry. Do I require a special type of yeast?

In 'fino' sherry Flor Yeast forms a floating film on the surface of the
wine. It protects the wine from oxidation, as well as imparting special
flavours. Alcohol levels, though, must be 14 to 16%. Below 14% vinegar
bacteria can take over. Above 16% yeast cells will die and this would
then become 'oloroso' style sherry.

Because the yeast uses a lot of alcohol, the produced water would
acetify in contact with stainless steel tanks. In wooden barrels, there
is enough evaporation that counters the drop in alcohol, therefore
producing the Sherry flavour.

G47. SWEETENING WINE

There are many ways of sweetening your wine.

A) When your wine has reached about 1.000, put in your sulphite,
sorbate and clearing agent. This will usually give you only a slightly
sweet wine.
B) Ferment your wine dry, then stabilize it with your sulphite and
sorbate, and add your clearing agent. Filter the wine. Then add a 2:1
sugar/water (or wine) syrup that contains sulphite and sorbate.
C) Add some glycerine. This technically won't sweeten the wine but it
will add to your perception of sweetness.
D) Blend the stabilized wine with a stable over sweet wine.
E) Add sugar to the wine just before serving. Two teaspoons per bottle
will increase the sugar content by 1%, and 4% will approximate port.

As far as what degree of sweetness you want, add a little bit at a time,
and stop when it tastes like it could use just a bit more.

Sweetness:

< 0.5%; <1.000 SG; 1 = dry
< 3%;   <1.010 SG; 2 = medium dry
< 5.5%; <1.020 SG; 3 = medium sweet
< 8%;   <1.030 SG; 4 = sweet
<10.5%; <1.040 SG; 5 = dessert

1.23oz of sugar/gallon raises your brix One point.

G48. "STRENGTHENING" A WINE

{I have about 240 litres of a light red which saw insufficent skin
contact coupled with a wet summer which lead to large berries. The wine
has no major fault apart from the fact that it is weak.}

A good way of "strengthening" the wine would be to do the following:

1. You don't say how 'weak' is weak, but it may not matter to the
procedure other than adjusting the sugar level. Get 70-80 lbs of dark
raisins and start fermenting in a primary with as little water as
possible (no more than 10 litres). It's better if you can crush the
raisins. Don't worry about the seeds because you haven't much tannin in
your original wine. Use a Prise de Mousse (Premier Cuvee) or Lalvin EC-
1118 yeast.

2. After a couple of days following the start of fermentation,
introduce your wine into the ferment, 10-15 litres at a time. Twice a
day.

3. Depending on the alcohol level you want to achieve, you can feed the
yeast by adding some sugar. Probably 30 to 40 lbs in total, at regular
intervals during fermentation.

4. You can make any acidity adjustments at the end, but if you know
your original acidity, it would be preferrable to adjust prior to
fermenting the raisins.

5. When ferment reaches SG 1.000 or lower, rack into secondary, attach
airlock, and rest 4-6 weeks.

If you are referring to body, not alcohol, then you could approach the
problem by bulk ageing the wine with elderberries, raisins or other
dried fruit with strong flavours and deep red colour. These should be
dipped in a sulphite solution prior to use to avoid spoilage, and can
be added to the wine in a nylon straining bag to make removal easier.
The wine should subsequently be allowed to ferment the added sugars if
you wish a dry wine and fined to remove any cloudiness.

G49. Humidity & Storage

Some debate exists about proper humidity levels required in storage.
Excessively humid conditions may bring about problems with mouldiness
on the corks and help to deteriorate the label, while excessive dryness
may lead to a dry, rotten cork. Whether or not humidity actually
affects the wine may be dubious.

Temperature of the storage area is important, however. Wines are more
susceptible to oxidation above temperatures of 75F (24C); they are also
adversely affected by conditions in which the temperature fluctuates
quickly over time.

Bottles should be kept on their sides to keep the cork moistened; by
drying out the corks may become more susceptible to leakage and allow
for the incursion of too much oxygen that may spoil the wine, as well
as, in very extreme situations, allow for some wine loss (and as such
oxygen incursion into the bottle) through evaporation.

The advice of keeping the labels up is primarily useful for identifying
the kind of wine you have in a given bottle -- ie the upwards-facing
label is easier to read. Also, if there is sediment in your bottles,
you can carefully handle the bottle such as to avoid mixing it into
your wine.

Keeping your wine in a north facing room against the north wall (or
south in the southern hemisphere) generally is a myth. It is useful if
your southern-exposed room becomes excessively warm from the sun (see
above regarding storage temperature).

Light may also contribute to the premature ageing and deterioration of
the wine, and prolonged direct sunlight may cause undue temperature
fluctuations.

For your convenience, your labels should also either clearly indicate
the wine type, its age, and any other information you decide is
relevant, or at least an identification code which is clearly explained
in a handy log book.

G50. KNOWING WHEN TO PICK YOUR GRAPES

{Is there any way of determining the right time to harvest grapes save
purchasing the commerical product telling the sugar content? I don't
have that many vines to warrant the expense.}

A couple of interesting suggestions have been made by Cox in 'From
Vines to Wines.'

One is to measure the ratio of Brix to TA. Harvest when the ratio is
between 30:1 and 35:1, and don't go beyond 35:1 unless you're making
botrytized or sweet dessert wine. His caveat: if you are living in a
cold region where high acidity is a problem, you may not get to 30:1.
For example, the grapes may only get to 25:1 and stay there. He
suggests suggests to check the pH. If it's approaching 3.2 to 3.3 for
whites and 3.4 to 3.5 for reds, harvest, no matter what the Brix and TA
are doing. The pH gives a check against total reliance on the Brix:TA
ratio.

The other, and Cox says this is more accurate, is to multiply pH by
itself, and then multiply that by Brix. Harvest whites when the number
gets as close as possible to 200, and reds when the number approaches
260. And try to keep pH below 3.3 for whites and 3.5 for reds. If it
goes higher than those, harvest.

He summarizes: "Keep measuring. Don't let the pH go above 3.3 with
whites or 3.5 with reds. Harvest when the Brix:TA ratio is as close as
posible to 30:1-35:1, and when Brix times pH squared is as close as
possible to 200 for whites and 260 for reds."

One other suggestion is that the winemaker can consider the prospective
alcohol content of the finished product. If he decides, for example,
that his white table wine tastes best with an alcohol content of 11.2%,
he would pick at 20 Brix, because he knows that the finished product
will have approximately 56 percent by volume alcohol to the original
sugars (i.e., 20 Brix times 56% equals 11.2%).

A theoretical "ideal" red grape: 22.5 Brix, .7 TA and pH 3.4. Ratio is
32.14; Brix(pH2) is 260.1.

T51. WILD YEASTS

Some people try to use the yeasts/bacteria that come on the grapeskins
as the primary fermentation organisms. The most important thing to
realize is that with the "natural" method you're not fermenting the
sugars and digestable acids with monocultures but with a broad
polyculture of various yeasts and bacteria. It seems that this
polyculture is as much a part of the "terroir" of the site as the soil,
exposure, etc.

It is suggested that you do the following:

1. Use grapes that are in good condition (little mould.)
2. Make sure pH is correct to avoid over population of bacteria.
3. Cap the must with CO2 after crush until the ferment is producing
enough CO2 on its own to protect from oxygen contact.
4. Monitor ferment closely.
5. I like to ferment reds hot (85 - 90 F).
5. Cap with CO2 at the end of ferment until you press.

Many find that the polyculture and the longer, drawn out ferment will
yield a more complex wine. A good experiment would be to split your
grapes and ferment each half with each method and see what you like
best. You may or may not enjoy the "complexity" that results from the
"natural" method. Practical Vineyard and Winery has a bunch of detailed
articles about this subject.

Others feel that the low cost of a packet of yeast -- about USD$1.00 at
most -- and some sulphite at the beginning is a good investment in
making sure that you avoid potential problems in lost wines to
unpredictable polycultures. A good yeast to use is a "Killer Yeast"
such as Lalvin K1-1117.

G52. ARE ANY OTHER WINEMAKING TOPICS COVERED SOMEWHERE?

Go to http://www.pobox.com/~malak/mailwine.zip. Don has been privately
answering all sorts of winemaking questions by email over the years and
has compiled almost all of them since sometime in 1995.

http://nanaimo.ark.com/~jziebart/ (British Columbia Amateur Winemaking
Association, which has some pages covering all sorts of topics,
including sulphite.

G53. COLD STABILIZATION

{I am making a wine from a kit - Pinot Noir from Cuvee Vendage
(Vinotheque). I have read about the benefits of cold stabilization, so
I want to cold stabilize my wine. (The kit instructions, or any kit
instructions I have read do not mention cold stabilization).}

You shouldn't need to cold stabilize kits.

{Should I do my cold stabilization before or after adding the
clarifiers?}

After, though if you want to minimize such additions then waiting
around an extra two weeks won't hurt the wine.

{I still need all of these clarifiers. If I am letting my wine age
longer then the 45 days the kit calls for and am cold stabilizing? I
just started a Chardonnay kit. Is anything any different for white
wines?}

45 is too long for cold stabilization; you only need 14. However the
wine will benefit from the ageing.

{I am doing my cold stabilization in the unheated back porch of my
house. Should I wrap the carboy in a blanket to protect it from
draughts and to help insulate from temperature swings? What is the
minimum temperature wine should cold stabilize at? If we get a really
cold snap and my porch goes down below 32F (or 0c) is this a problem?}

No wrapping is needed as the thermal buffering you will need for the
wine will be somewhat taken care of by the fact that the porch is
protected from sudden temperature changes and wine.

It should go down to 28F (-2C). It shouldn't freeze unless it really
gets cold (-10C for long periods of time) at which point the wine might
begin to slush up.

G54. HOW MUCH PECTIC ENZYME SHOULD I USE?

1/2 teaspoon per gallon of pectic enzyme (powder form) is an acceptable
general rule of thumb for all fruit wines.

G55. GETTING RID OF EXCESSIVE PULP

{I made the mistake of not racking off the fruit pulp before I went to
my primary fermenter. I've tried to clear it since but the pulp is so
thick that it almost immediately clogs my racking cane. Any ideas about
how I can rack off the pulp?}

One way to eliminate the larger portions of pulp would be to pour the
must through a plastic window screen. You can rapidly clean the screen
each time it becomes clogged. Further filtering can be accomplished by
sending the wine through a mesh pulp bag, but this mesh does clog very
fast and is harder to clean. The finer pulp will settle out quite
rapidly after fermentation seizes. The ultra fine particles require bulk
storage for a few months.

The best way is to use the mesh pulp bag and using it to scoop the pulp
out of the wine, then squeezing the liquid out by hand; this therefore
will require the immersion of WELL SCRUBBED and sanitized forearms
directly into the wine and squeezing by hand.

G56. WHAT IF I DON'T HAVE ANY YEAST NUTRIENT?

{Does anyone know what I can add to my musts so that I can avoid having
to use yeast nutrient?}

You could add extra fruit, but you'll only get so far with it. After a
while there will be limits to what the yeast can do without the proper
nutrition.

You could add grape concentrate, which will help out a lot since it's
the most balanced of all fruits for winemaking.

You could also try adding a bit of a "fruit punch puree" you make in
your blender by taking a large variety of fruit and making a puree,
separating it into cup portions & freezing it all. There should
particularly be lemons, for the ascorbic acid which will avoid browning
and whose peels will add the glycerine and other oils, as well as
bananas, which will provide a relatively neutral rounding out of the
body for the wine. Each batch of a particular fruit wine you make can
have a cup of this puree added; it will have quite the variety of
nutrients in it for fermenting without overwhelming the dominant fruit
if you make a couple of gallons or more at a time.

G57. ARRESTING FERMENTATION

In order to stop a fermentation while a wine is still sweet,

A) Place the batch in a refrigerator set VERY cold, or;
B) Place it outside in the winter;
C) Add a clearing agent, sulphite and sorbate and;
D) Filter when clear.

Or:

E) Add a spirit (brandy, vodka, etc) to increase the alcohol content to
18% - 21% alcohol. This creates an environment in which the yeast can no
longer survive; or
F) Use a sterile filter to remove all yeast from the wine.

{Is there an alternative to adding sorbate to prevent wine from
refermenting after sweetening?}

Several alternatives are available.

A) Increase alcohol content to 19% or higher. (Not satisfactory for
table wine).
B) Pasteurize the wine to 180 F at bottling time. (Wine quality
suffers).
C) Deliberately stop fermentation by chilling the wine and remove the
yeast. Restart fermentation and repeat process several times. Each new
generation of yeast consumes micro nutrients until the yeast cannot
reproduce. (Long, tricky proceedure.)
D) Use a sterile bottles and corks and a sterile rated (less than 0.45
micron) filter at bottling time. (Sterile filtration is easy with proper
equipment. Keeping bottles and corks sterile is not).

You may also consider fermenting dry, and adding the sweetener (sugar)
when served. For the home winemaker, this creates a stable bottle which
will store without danger or refermentation and can avoid all chemical
additives.

G58. REMOVING CORKS FROM BOTTLES

{Do you know how to get corks out without breaking the bottle?}

A) Straighten a metal coat hanger, and put a sharp bend (150 degrees) in
the last 1/2 inch. Just push it into the bottle, tip the bottle up so
the cork falls into the neck, and then gently pull the coat hanger out.
B) Get a piece of cloth, something like a hankerchief, or a lightweight
napkin. Stick a corner of it into the bottle, so it forms a 'V' like
cup. Move the bottle around until the cork is sitting inside the Vee of
the napkin. Start easing the napkin out, it should wrap around the cork
and start pulling it out. Now comes the fun (hard) part. You have to
pull really hard to get the cork out. As long as you don't have too much
napkin around the cork, it will come out, without breaking the bottle.
C) Tie a large knot at the end of the string and drop it into the
bottle; add water until the cork floats up to the neck and 'self
rightens' - then pull the string. The knot catches the bottom of the
cork and out it comes.

G59. Your friendly hydrometer

Hydrometers are calibrated to read pure water at 1.000 at typically 60F
or 67F. Typically you can take any tap water and expect to reasonably
find 1.000; if your tap water reads significantly from this -- but the
distilled water from your supplier still reads 1.000 -- it probably
wouldn't be a good idea to use your tap water (but that's another
discussion.)

This is taken from the instructions sold with a hydrometer:

"This hydrometer gives an accurate reading when the temperature of the
liquid is 60 deg. F. The following tables show how to correct for
temperature difference.

 F     SG Correction
50.....Subtract 1/2
60.....Subtract 0
70.....Add 1
77.....Add 2
84.....Add 3
95.....Add 5
105....Add 7

Example:
Temp of must = 84 deg F
SG is 1.100
Correction figure is 3
Corrected SG is 1.103"

Contributors:

Don Buchan (editor), Tony DeVito, Eric Garrison, Brian Carty, Peter
Rosback, Rick Regan, David B. Gibson, Don Schiller, Dave Kehlet, Paul
Jean, Scott Arighi, Tamiko Toland, Victor Reijs, Philip DiFalco,
Richard Castle, Jack Ziebart, Morley, Christopher Sawtell, Brian
Hiebert, Greg Owen, K.D. Colagio, Mark Levesque, Anthony Hawkins,
Patrick J. Tierney, Bob Konigsberg, Tim Hodkinson, Michael Arthurs, Bob
Konigsberg, Klaus Oehr, Art Turner, Gary, Jacques Recht, Ronald
Elshaug, Bryan Johnson, Ronald Elshaug, Geza T Szenes, John Katchmer,
Warren Vidrine, Joseph Delaney, Dan Razzell, G. Trend, Matt Marshall,
John D. Trites, Tom Barnhart, Tom How, Giovanni Alfieri, Scott E.
Shull, Graham Skerrett, Harry A. Demidavicius, Roger Boulton, Andrew
Bennett, Jens P. Jaeger, N. Lalu, Dan Lutley, Charles Plant, Ed Goist,
John Dent, Lum, Frank Wetzel and many others on whose posts some
sections were based.

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