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(rightly or not) attributed to the sire, so your dog's reputation is
at stake with each litter he sires. You should be reasonably confident
that the proposed breeding will result in good puppies.
If the owner of the bitch is a novice, are you prepared to assist with
advice on whelping and puppy care? These people will expect you to
have the answers. Sometimes entire litters of puppies are dumped on
the stud dog owner when the bitch's owners can no longer cope with
them because they didn't realize what a responsibility caring for a
litter involved. Are you ready to take care of and place your dog's
offspring if this should happen to you?
Are you prepared to deal with cases where you are certain your dog is
not the sire of the puppies but the bitch's owner insists that he is?
Or if the owner of the bitch insists that you must have allowed a
mismating to occur when she was boarded with you? Disputes of this
sort can become very ugly very quickly.
_________________________________________________________________
Genetics
_If a purebred dog of breed X mated with a purebred dog of breed Y,
both meeting health standards for their breed, is there a better
chance the offspring would be healthier than a same breed mating
because the gene pool is larger?_
In terms of health alone the first answer would be that in breeding
two healthy dogs it shouldn't matter if they're the same of
different breeds, you're apt to get healthy pups. But this doesn't
take into account the question of recessives. Suppose you breed two
dogs of different breeds that both have the same incidence of a
recessive health problem. The pups would have the same odds of
having that health problem as purebred pups of either breed. On the
other hand, suppose the two dogs were of breeds that have no
recessive health problems in common. This would reduce or eliminate
the odds of the puppies of having the health problems of either
breed. This is the classic explanation for the theory of first
generation hybrid vigor. The resulting pups should not be bred
though, since they'd have a good chance of having the recessives
from BOTH breeds, so the grandpups would be inclined to be worse
off than the purebred offspring of their grandparents. An excellent
set of articles dealing with "hybrid vigor" can be found in
_DogWorld_, Jan 1997 by George Padgett DVM. Another _very_
important point to keep in mind is that when a purebred carrying a
genetic defect is crossed with another breed or mixed breed, the
"bad" genes do NOT "go away" even though they may not be expressed
in the offspring. If crossed with another dog carrying the same
defect, the offspring of that breeding _will_ demonstrate the
defect.
_Purebred dogs have all these diseases, though! It seems that you
never hear about mixed breed dogs with problems._
Responsible breeders try to identify genetic diseases their dogs
might be carrying and to eliminate them by careful breeding. It is
ironic, though not surprising, that their efforts to identify and
weed out genetic problems have lead some to cry "look at all the
genetic diseases purebred dogs have!" A moment's careful thought
will lead you to the conclusion that mixed breeds carry the _same_
harmful genes (their parents, or their parents' parents, _were_
purebreds, after all). The differences are
* with some recessive disorders (though not _all_ genetic defects)
the disease is less likely to be _expressed_ (though it can still
be inherited by offspring)
* you have lesser likelihood of ever identifying or eliminating any
harmful genes your mixed breed may be carrying
Also, if you stop and think about it, many mixed breeds are simply
not tested for most problems. When they get older and limp, it's
just considered old age, although it could well be hip dysplasia.
When they get older and start to go blind, it could be PRA, but the
owners are unlikely to test for this. It's not that owners of mixed
breeds are bad, by any means, but they are not looking for possible
inheritable problems, either.
_When you breed two different breeds together, what kind of variation
can you expect?_
Pfaffenberger's book has some interesting data on this. He did some
experiments with four different breeds. They were dogs of
approximately the same size, but very different physical appearance
AND behavior. The results he saw in the first and in subsequent
mixed generations are pretty interesting.
Let's look at a common crossbreeding: "cockapoos" (which are _not_
purebred dogs, nor registered with any registry). These are crosses
between Cocker Spaniels and Minature or Toy Poodles. The dogs
actually vary quite a bit, some being more poodle like than others,
and some being more cocker like than others. However, they are
generally all a small sized, buff colored shaggy dog. If you breed
two cockapoos together (not generally done), you get an even wider
variation of dogs -- some look like Minature Poodles, others like
Cocker Spaniels. The reason for this is the recessive genes hidden
in the first cross that came out in the second generation. This is
actually a visual example of why "hybrid vigor" doesn't hold.
_What is outcrossing?_
Outcrossing is where the sire and dam are totally unrelated,
preferably for three or four generations. The true form of an
outcross is between two entirely different breeds because in
reality the members of most registered breeds come from a common
ancestor (althought it may be many, many generations back). It is
very rare for outcrossed puppies to be uniform in appearance.
Usually there are a very large ranges of sizes, coats, colors,
markings, and other distinctive characteristics. Outcrossed litters
are generally heterozygous, and do not reliably reproduce
themselves, so even the nicest puppy in the litter may not later
produce the best puppies.
Outcrossing is generally used to introduce something new to a line
-- a better head, better colors, better front, etc. Usually the
puppies retained from these breedings are bred back into the
breeder's original line to standardize them back into the line's
general characteristics and reproducibility -- with the one desired
characteristic. The tricky part is that other characteristics may
come along for the ride!
If you are dedicated enough, you can eventually continue breeding
by outcrossing alone (but don't expect instant or quick results).
You should pick dogs that complement eachother well and are similar
in general appearance. This is a long hard road to eventually
developing a line. Through outcrossing, many health problems can
quickly be eliminated (or just as quickly added into your
breeding), but usually you do sacrifice some show quality and
producibility.
You have to remember that dogs that appear totally healthy may be
carriers of genetic problems. To find this out, test mating is done
to a dog that is affected with the genetic problem (resulting
usually in puppies that are both affected and non-affected
carriers) or by inbreeding to a related dog that also doesn't show
the signs of being affected (usually littermates are used) this
will usually result in some puppies free of the problem, some
puppies as carriers, and some puppies affected if both dogs carry
the problem gene (this is not as accurate as breeding to an
affected dog, but you are less likely to have to put all the
puppies down).
There are variations on outcrossing. A "true" outcross could be a
dog that has totally unrelated dogs bred together throughout the
pedigree. This is very rare. On the other hand, "linecrossing" is a
form of outcrossing where dogs from unrelated lines are bred to
produce a new line. The sire and dam are usually very linebred from
their prospective lines and the resulting puppies are varied in
appreance, some looking like the sire's line and some looking like
the dam's line and some looking like mixtures of both lines.
_How about line breeding?_
Line breeding is when the sire and the dam are distantly related:
e.g., grandsire to granddaughter, granddam to grandson, second
cousins, half cousins, uncle to niece, aunt to nephew..... The
general strategy is that there is a common ancestor that is being
doubled up on both sides. So the desired dog appears several times
in the pedigree.
This is probably the most common strategy in breeding purebred dogs
(and in developing new breeds, for that matter). Though this
method, new genes are slowly introduced and unwanted genes are
slowly replaced. The actual rate varies by how strongly you line
breed. It sacrifices little overall quality in terms of show
quality. Usually the puppies are rather close in general
conformation. The only problem with this method is that it often
takes several generations to get poor genes out, (or adding desired
genes in) resulting in many puppies that have the same genetic
problems (or virtues) that their parents have. And then because
some breeders are more interested in winning, they do not place the
affected puppies on spay/neuter contracts. This is both a blessing
and a curse for the breed. If the breeder is very careful, affected
pups can be used wisely to prevent loss of quality, but still
remove the affected genes by only breeding the affected pups to
known non-carrier relatives. This way the breeder can again try to
"edit out" the bad genes. It takes longer this way but less show
quality is lost in the process. This process results in dogs that
will often reproduce their same level of quality. This is refered
to as reaching homozygous litters (more genes of the same kind
apparent in the puppies).
Inbreeding and linebreeding really differ only in degree.
Linebreeding is less likely to cause harm than inbreeding.
Inbreeding is not for novices. Knowledge of genetics and the breed
is required for success. For good results it must be well-planned
and breeders must be ready for whatever problems it presents.
_And inbreeding?_
Inbreeding is where the sire and the dam are closely related:
mother to son, father to daughter, sister to brother, half sister
to half brother, cousin to cousin. People disgree about the exact
point at which inbreeding becomes linebreeding. Inbreeding is the
quickest way to find out what poor genes are in the line and what
dominant characteristics are in the line.
Although many people are disgusted with the idea of this family
incest, it is an extremely useful tool for diagnosing what genes
are present. If the genes for bad eyes are present, but hidden or
resessive, this will bring them out to their full extent. If there
isn't any bad genes, then the puppies will be of very close
uniformity and very able to reproduce themselves (theroretically).
This is a homozygous breeding. The resulting puppies will have a
lot of genetic material that is the same as their parents and
grandparents and will be close genetically to each other.
Inbreeding doesn't introduce new genes and does not eliminate bad
genes that the line already has. It only shifts them around like a
rubix cube. This often results in litters with high show potential,
if the quality was high to begin with. It shows you what recessives
you have lurking in the dogs' backgrounds -- _both_ good and bad.
But there are drawbacks. Besides the possibility of bad recessives,
inbreeding exclusively will eventually lead to infertility. It's
like a xerox machine. After so many copies, you have to renew the
ink. The same with dogs, you have to introduce new genes. No
reputable breeder will use inbreeding exclusively, and many
breeders simply never use it. Usually, you will only find: very
experienced breeders, ignorant breeders, and puppy mills making use
of this technique.
Inbreeding increases the chance that a gene obtained from the sire
will match one obtained from the dam, both stemming from the common
ancestor(s) on which the individual was inbred. Thus, inbreeding
tends to make animals homozygous rather than heterozygous. The
inbreeding coefficient measures the resulting increase in
homozygousity. All breeds have a given degree of homozygosity the
mating of two dogs from the same breed would not produce a
recognizable specimen of the breed!
Inbreeding increases homozygosity and decrease heterozygosity. So
it can duplicate both desirable and harmful alleles, both of which
can be unsuspected in the line, and may appear. Inbreeding does NOT
create anomalies, it brings present anomalies to the surface. Even
when the anomalies are present, inbreeding might not reveal them.
However, once revealed, then the breeder can do something about
them in the next generations of breeding.
An increase in harmful recessives is undesirable but it is not a
major drawback if they are identified early. The effect of
inbreeding on major polygenic traits is greater. Generally, traits
that are highly inherited (ie largely additively controlled) are
not adversely affected by inbreeding but, traits under non-additive
control, especially those tied to dominance and thus not of high
heritability, are often markedly harmed by inbreeding.
_OK, how do pedigrees figure into this?_
Remember that it is difficult to spot unaffected carriers. When an
affected dog shows up, its pedigree is often examined for likely
carriers. For example, PRA is a common problem in many breeds.
There are dogs that come down with PRA that have a certain ancestor
in common. That ancestor may then be considered a possible carrier
and line breeding on him is avoided. This is a simplistic picture,
obviously, since it's possible for an unaffected non-carrier of PRA
to come from an unaffected carrier that came from an affected dog
(therefore the affected dog is in the unaffected dog's pedigree).
If a general blood test is ever developed that shows the presence
of the recessive in an unaffected dog, then much more accurate
breedings may be done; currently this is only possible for Irish
Setters.
There is rarely only a single problem a breeder is trying to screen
for. Suppose a suspected carrier of PRA is known for producing
excellent hips. A breeder might therefore introduce that bloodline
into theirs for the hips, and be willing to have the possibility of
PRA show up in the line. In screening out one problem you might
have to accept the possibility of another appearing.
Examining the pedigrees also lets you know what percent of ancestry
the dogs share (since the relationships are often much more complex
than simply cousins or aunt/uncle, the degree of common ancestry is
often given as a percentage instead) and decide whether or not it's
acceptable given your current goals.
_What are like-to-like matings and compensatory matings?_
Like to like mating implies the best to the best and the worst to
the worst where the worst is not used at all. For most breeders,
like to like matings are between dogs which resemble each other
greatly and so similar type dogs are bred. These dogs may or may
not be closely related.
The pups resemble their parents because of the genes in common with
them. If those parents resembled each other their progeny would be
even more like their parents. This tends to make the population
look more uniform, however there is little increase in prepotency
from this technique.
Compensatory Mating: This unlike to unlike mating is used by
breeders to correct for a defect in an animal by mating it to
another animal that might correct for the defect. The system is
basically simple but the breeder must identify faults and virtues
and it requires breed knowledge. The pedigrees of both dogs should
be examined carfully to try to identify the ways in which the dogs
differ and what the expected outcomes could be. A correct dog and
not one who errs in the opposite direction is required. That is, if
you want to improve structure, look for a dog with correct
structure and not an overbuilt dog. This technique often results in
only one or two pups with the combination desired.
_But this is all very vague and complicated!_
Yes, it is. There are no easy answers, and there are different
things to consider in every breed. This uncertainty with respect to
genetic inheritance is exactly the reason that breeding is so
difficult to do right. It helps immensely to have a "mentor",
someone who is familiar not only with the breeds, but the lines
your dog belongs to -- advice from such a knowledgeable person is
often extremely valuable.
If we knew everything about genetics, we wouldn't _have_ problems
with our dogs any more. We'd eliminate Hip Dysplasia, PRA, heart
problems, thyroid problems, seizures, etc. within a few generations
if we knew everything. Unfortunately it's an art that few people
are actually very good at.
_________________________________________________________________
References
"So you want to use your Dog At Stud?" From the Literary Spot, the
newsletter of the Central MD Dalmation Club 12/89 via Retriever
Believer, the newsletter of the Labrador Retriever Club of Southern
California 8/91.
Tucker, Kathy. "Why are you Breeding?", printed in various
newsletters.
Whitney, Leon E (DVM). _How to Breed Dogs_ 384 pg. Many case studies
on breeds, breed crosses for dominance studies, Myths and fallacies
about breeding dogs, inheritance of traits (such as temperament,
health, intelligence, and abilities).
Wilcox, Bonnie (DVM). "Things to Think about Before Breeding Your
Dog." DVM, printed in various newsletters.
Willis, Malcolm B. _Practical Genetics for Dog Breeders_. Howell,
1992. 228 pgs with appendix for calculations -- several graphs,
charts, and pictures.
Willis, Malcolm B. _Genetics of the Dog_. 417 pgs with breed specific
information on many breeds -- plus several charts and graphs.
_________________________________________________________________
Breeding Your Dog FAQ
Cindy Tittle Moore, rpd-info@netcom.com
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