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There are many FAQ's available for this group.  For a complete
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==========


                              Health Care Issues
                                       
Author

   Cindy Tittle Moore, cindy@k9web.com
   Copyright 1995-1997.
   
Table of Contents

     * Prologue
     * In General
     * Administering Medicine
     * Allergies
     * Aging
     * Bathing
     * Dental Care
     * Disease Transmission (Zoonoses)
     * Ears
     * Food
     * Incontinence
     * Neutering
     * Overheating
     * Puberty
     * Skin Problems
     * Temperature
     * Trimming Nails
     * Vaccinations
     * Vomiting
     * Worms
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Prologue

   Considerable information herein is summarized from Carlson & Giffin,
   authors of a home veterinarian handbook. I would like to thank them
   for their informative and accessible information. Any mistakes made in
   the summaries are my responsibility and not Carlson & Giffin's. I
   believe that I am within copyright laws by using summarizations (no
   direct quoting, except for the toxic plants section), my own
   organization of the material, and precise acknowledgement where
   relevant.
   
   This article is presented for informative purposes only, and should
   NOT be used to "replace" normal veterinary care. Rather, the
   information included is intended to allow you
     * to be aware of potential problems,
     * to be able to prevent some of these problems, and
     * to know when to take your dog in and what to tell your vet.
     _________________________________________________________________
   
In General

   Your dog cannot tell you when it feels sick. You need to be familiar
   with its normal behavior -- any sudden change may be a signal that
   something is wrong. Behavior includes physical and social behavior;
   changes in either can signal trouble.
   
   If you familiarize yourself with basic dog care issues, symptoms to
   look for, and a few emergency care treatments, you can go a long way
   toward keeping your dog healthy. Never attempt to replace vet care
   with your own (unless, of course, you are a vet); rather, try to be
   knowledgeable enough to be able to give your vet intelligent
   information about your dog's condition.
   
   You should know some emergency care for your dog. This is beyond the
   scope of the FAQ, as you really need pictures or demonstrations. Check
   a home-vet book and ask your vet about them. Some of these include:
     * mouth-to-mouth resuscitation
     * CPR
     * temporary bandages and splints
     * inducing vomiting
     * a good antiseptic for minor cuts, scrapes, etc.; povidone iodine
       and similar antiseptic cleansers are recommended
       
   There are a number of good books that cover basic care for dogs. These
   include:
   
   Miller, Harry. The Common Sense Book of Puppy and Dog Care. Bantam
   Books, Third Edition (revised) (1987). ISBN: 0-553-27789-8
   (paperback).
   
     Includes a section on practical home care, listing major symptoms
     you should be alert for, and listing general criteria by which you
     can determine a dog's overall healthiness. Discusses major diseases
     and problems, gives sketches on what may be wrong given certain
     symptoms.
     
   Taylor, David. You and Your Dog. Alfred A. Knopf, New York (1991).
   ISBN:0-394-72983-8 (trade paperback).
   
     Taylor gives flow-chart questions to consider when deciding if
     symptoms are serious or not. Not as comprehensive as other care
     books, but a good start in understanding what you need to look for
     when your dog seems off. Includes illustrations of many procedures,
     such as teeth cleaning and nail trimming. Informative discussion of
     reproductive system, grooming, and dog anatomy.
     
   An *excellent* resource that details all aspects of health issues for
   dogs, and one that every conscientious dog owner should have is:
   
   Carlson, Delbert G., DVM, and James M. Giffin, MD. Dog Owners's Home
   Veterinary Handbook. Howell Book House, Macmillan Publishing Company,
   866 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10022 USA (1980). ISBN: 0-87605-764-4
   (hardcover).
   
     This comprehensive book is a complete guide to health care of dogs.
     It lets you know when you can treat the dog, or when you need to
     take it to the vet post-haste. It lists symptoms so that you may
     inform your vet of relevant information about its condition. The
     arrangement of the material facilitates rapid reference.
     Illustration of key procedures (pilling, taking pulse/temperature,
     etc). Lists poisonous substances, including houseplants. A must
     have home veterinarian handbood.
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Administering Medicine

   There are many devices to aid in administering medicine. In
   particular, pill plungers are effective and available by mail order. A
   syringe with no needle is good for liquids. Ask your vet for some
   other ideas.
   
  Pills
  
   (summarized from Carlson & Giffin)
   
   Open your dog's mouth and drop the pill down as far back as you can,
   on top of and in the center of the tongue. Close the dogs mouth and
   hold it shut while stroking the throat until your dog swallows. If it
   licks its nose, chances are that it swallowed the pill. Giving it a
   treat afterwards helps insure that the pill is swallowed.
   
   You can try hiding the pills in a treat, say cheese or peanut butter.
   Pill plungers work well, also.
   
  Liquids
  
   (summarized from Carlson & Giffin)
   
   Tilt the chin up at 45 degrees, and place the neck of the bottle into
   the cheek pouch, between the molar teeth and the cheek. Seal the lips
   around it with your fingers and pour in the liquid. Large amounts can
   be given this way. Hold the muzzle firmly while the dog swallows.
   Bottles, syringes and eyedroppers can be used. Your vet can help you
   out here.
   
  Eyedrops
  
   If you must administer eyedrops to your dog and it resists, try the
   following trick: stand behind your dog and hold the eye open to
   administer the drops. You don't appear as dominating this way.
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Allergies

   Dogs can get allergies just like people do. However, symptoms involve
   skin problems rather than respiratory distress. Check the skin
   problems section over for possible clues toward allergies. A common
   culprit is fleas, but dogs can be allergic to many other things,
   including some types of food commonly found in dog food.
   
   A good way to have your dog's allergies tested is with an ELISA test.
   Your vet should know about this test and be able to have it done at
   your request.
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Aging

   Although aging is irreversible, some of the infirmities of an older
   dog may in fact be due to disease and therefore correctable or
   preventable. It is important for any dog over six years of age to be
   examined thoroughly every six months.
   
   In particular, you want regular blood work done on your dog. For
   example if kidney function declines, you want to know so that you can
   switch to kidney-sensitive diets.
   
   A recently published book is
   
   Hampton, John K. Jr., PhD, and Suzanne Hampton, PhD. Senior Years:
   Understanding your Dog's Aging Process. Howell Book House. 1993. ISBN:
   0-87605-734-2.
   
  Behavioral changes
  
   (summarized from Carlson & Giffin) Older dogs are more complacent,
   less energetic and curious. They may be forgetful, and sleep more.
   Crankiness and irritability are common. They are less tolerant of
   changes in the environment; in particular you may wish to have someone
   come by and check the dog at home rather than kennel it when you leave
   on vacation. Older dogs in hospitals and kennels go off their feed,
   become overanxious, and bark frequently.
   
  Physical changes
  
   (summarized from Carlson & Giffin)
   
   Loss of muscular tone and lessened activity may result in the neck and
   body becoming more bulky, but the legs more thin. Resistance to cold
   is impaired and older dogs should always have a warm and draft-free
   bed. Arthritic dogs may need a padded surface on which to sleep.
   
   Moderate exercise helps keep the joints supple, and should be
   encouraged, but not beyond its ability to do so. Also, some
   conditions, such as heart trouble, may necessitate restraining it from
   exercise. Toe nails will require more frequent trimming. Stiffening
   joints may make it more difficult for the dog to keep its genital and
   anal areas clean. The skin may dry out and require some care to keep
   it clean and less dry.
   
   Loss of hearing and sight may occur. Tooth and gum disease is fairly
   common. Kidney failure and disease is more common (look for increased
   thirst and other symptoms of kidney failure). Incontinence (mostly in
   older spayed females, treatable with estrogen) may appear.
   
   An older dog needs less calories; the food must be of high quality so
   that it still gets the nutrition it needs with fewer calories.
   
  Geriatric Vestibular Disorder
  
   Common in older dogs, apparently something happens neurologically in
   the connection between the brain and the inner ear (sometimes
   infection, sometimes inflammation). Very little is actually known
   about it, but it does tend to subside after about a day or so.
   Unfortunately, the dog is generally unable to eat or drink, as it is
   completely disoriented.
   
   Dogs rarely show any enduring effects from such an episode other than
   sometimes their head leaning or tilting to one side.
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Bathing

   You may need to bathe your dog on occasion. The main thing to remember
   is that dogs' skin is more delicate than humans. It is much more prone
   to drying out when you wash it. Human based shampoos are formulated to
   remove all the oils. You need to get one formulated for dogs that will
   remove dirt but not the essential oils for the coat. Dogs that are
   frequently bathed may require some supplements (such as Linatone or
   vegetable oil) to keep their skin and coat healthy.
   
   A condition called impetigo may result from not rinsing all the soap
   out. Other general problems, such as fleas that prefer dried-out skin,
   may occur.
   
  Procedure
  
   (summarized from Carlson & Giffin)
   
   First, groom your pet to rid its coat of any mats or knots. Bathing
   will not remove these and in fact will worsen them. Plug its ears with
   cotton to prevent water in the ears. To prevent soap-burn in the eye,
   smear the eye area with a little vaseline, or administer a drop of
   mineral oil in each eye.
   
   Wet your dog thoroughly. Using a nozzle and spray is much easier.
   Using a shampoo formulated for dogs (the pH balance of human shampoos
   is wrong), lather and rinse its head carefully, keeping soap and water
   out of its eyes and ears. Lather and rinse the rest of its body.
   Relather and rinse any other areas that had stubborn stains.
   
   Rinse your dog *thoroughly*, and then rinse it again, even beyond when
   you think you've got all the soap out. Try adding Alpha-Keri bath oil
   (one teaspoonful per quart water) to the final rinse for coat luster.
   Do NOT use vinegar, lemon, or bleach rinses; they are acidic and will
   damage the dog's coat and skin.
   
   Dry your dog gently with towels, and keep it indoors until it is
   completely dry to avoid chilling.
   
  Dry shampoos
  
   Dogs with very oily coats may benefit from "dry-cleaning" in between
   baths. Calcium carbonate, talcum/baby powder, Fuller's earth, and
   cornstarch are all effective. They can be used frequently without fear
   of removing essential oils or damaging the coat and skin.
   
   Apply the powder, then brush out, against the lay of the hair, from
   the bottom up (toes to head) with a soft bristle brush. Then brush the
   whole dog normally to get all the powder out.
   
  Tar
  
   Do not use petroleum solvents, which are extremely harmful, to remove
   the tar from your pet's skin. Instead, trim away excess coat
   containing tar where possible. Soak remaining tarry parts in vegetable
   oil overnight and then give your dog a complete bath.
   
  Sap
  
   Sap (especially pine tree sap) often must simply be trimmed off.
   However, some people have had success with Murphy's Oil Soap.
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Dental Care

   Owners that practice good dental care with their dog will reap many
   benefits in the long run.
   
  Typical problems
  
   The most common cause of bad breath is excessive calculus and plaque
   deposits on the teeth. Bacteria live and feed in the plaque and
   produce gum and bone infection, pain, and bad breath.
   
   Calculus is a crusty collection of food particles, minerals, and
   bacteria that forms at the teeth-gum borders.
   
   Plaque formation eventually leads to gum disease, mouth odors,
   receding gums and bone destruction and infection. The rate at which
   plaque forms in your dog's mouth is mainly due to genetic
   predisposition, but can be slowed by daily oral hygiene using
   antiplaque liquid or gel and/or pastes and regular professional
   cleaning and polishing.
   
   Pyorrhea (inflamed and infected gums) of the teeth is often the cause
   of kidney infections and endocarditis in older dogs. The pressure on
   the gums and infection of the teeth is quite painful to your dog.
   
  Preventive steps
  
   An antiplaque liquid or gel (Chlorhexidine) can be applied to the gum
   tissue with a cotton ball or swab. As an alternative, a soft bristle
   toothbrush or finger brush can be used with a non-foaming enzymatic
   toothpaste manufactured for dogs.
   
   Treatments should be done daily or at least every other day, depending
   on the current problems. Only a few areas are particularly susceptible
   to plaque and calculus formation. The areas of greatest concern are
   the canines and upper back molars (side facing cheeks).
   
   Chlorhexidine penetrates gum tissue and prevents bacterial growth,
   plaque build-up, gingivitis, and bad breath. In addition to the
   canines and molars, look at the front incisor teeth and brush away any
   accumulation of hair and food at the gum line if present.
   
   To remove existing calculus deposits, your dog will require short
   general anesthesia and your dog's teeth will be cleaned with dental
   instruments along with an ultra-sonic machine that vibrates the
   calculus off the surface of the teeth. Calculus from under the gum
   tissue is carefully removed using a hand scaler. Finally, the teeth
   are polished to reduce purchase for new deposits. This can often be
   done when the dog is under anasthetic for other reasons, such as
   neutering.
   
  Cavities, etc
  
   Dogs do not commonly get cavities. When they do occur, it is more
   often at the root of the tooth rather than at the crown. Cavities can
   lead to root abscesses.
   
   Abscessed roots often cause a swelling just below the animal's eye.
   Generally, tooth extractions are needed at this point.
   
Disease Transmission (Zoonoses)

   Zoonotic diseases are those that can be transmitted from animals to
   people.
   
   (summarized from Carlson & Giffin)
   
   Any worm infestation has the potential of causing problems in humans.
   Standard hygienic precautions will avoid most of these. Things to
   watch for: babies getting infected when playing near or on
   contaminated soil or feces, working in the garden without gloves.
   
   Rabies, toxoplasmosis, brucellosis, and tetanus (lockjaw) can all
   affect both dogs and humans. Again, simple hygienic precautions will
   avoid most problems.
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Ears

   Your dog's ears should be clean, slighly pink-gray and have no odor.
   Problems with the ear to watch for include:
     * Red, irritated skin
     * Dirt or wax build up
     * "Coffee grounds" (rare)
     * Discharge
     * Foul odor
     * Frequent head shaking, or scratching/pawing at ear(s).
       
   The most common problems with ears are ear infections (yeast or
   bacterial). Ear mites are actaully pretty uncommon in dogs. In any
   case, any of the above symptoms are grounds for having the vet check
   your dog's ears out.
   
   Ear mites are treated with medication. Sometimes a reapplication is
   needed. Some people have gotten rid of light infestations by cleaning
   the ear out and then coating lightly with baby oil or mineral oil.
   
   Ear infections are a little harder to treat, usually requiring daily
   ear drops for a week or so, weekly drops for some time after that.
   Some dogs prone to ear infections need to have ear drops on a regular
   basis. Drop-eared dogs are a bit more prone to ear infections, as
   prick ears normally allow more air circulation.
   
   An easy home remedy to *prevent* ear infections (will not cure an
   existing one) is:
   
     2 Tablespoons Boric Acid
     4 oz Rubbing Alcohol
     1 Tablespoon Glycerine
     
     Shake well. Put 1 small eyedropperfull in each ear. Rub it around
     first, and then let the dog shake. Do this once a week and you
     shouldn't see any ear infections. It works by raising the pH level
     slightly inside the ear, making it less hospitable to bacteria.
     
   To clean out an ear that's simply dirty (some buildup of dirt and wax
   is normal, but excessive ear wax may indicate that something else is
   wrong), take a cotton ball, dip in hydrogen peroxide if you like
   (squeeze excess out) and wipe the dog's ear out. The canal is rather
   deep, so you will not injure your dog so long as you only use your
   finger to probe the canal. Clean all around the little crevices as
   best as you can. Use another cotton ball for the other ear. Be sure to
   dry the ears out thoroughly.
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Food

   There are many dog food formulations out there, ranging from
   inexpensive grocery-brands to expensive premium food. You should find
   out what suits your dog best: while many dogs have done just fine on
   dog chow, others do much better with other foods such as Nature's
   Recipe, Iams, Pro-Plan, etc.
   
   The theory behind the more expensive foods is that they are more
   digestible and contain less "bulk" and "fill." Hence, your dog will
   eat less in volume (and thus the extra cost of the food is somewhat
   offset) and excrete small and firm stools. You may need to experiment
   to find out how your dog does on different brands. Dogs vary in their
   individual reactions.
   
   Food should be fed once or twice a day. Put the food down and take it
   up again after ten to twenty minutes regardless of whether your dog
   has finished eating it. This discourages "picky eating" and lets you
   be certain of exactly how much food your dog is eating. Frequently, a
   problem is first indicated when your dog's feeding goes off, so
   scheduled feeding like this (rather than free feeding) will tip you
   off to potential problems right away.
   
   The larger or younger your dog is, the better multiple daily feedings
   are; simply divide up each day's portion into individual feedings.
   Fresh water should always be available, and changed at least once a
   day.
   
  Vegetables
  
   Many dogs appreciate vegetables. In particular if your dog is fond of
   munching on the grass, you can often alleviate this by feeding
   vegetables to your dog. Stick with fresh, raw foods: carrots, broccoli
   and cauliflower stems, apple cores, etc are popular. Stay away from
   potatoes and onions.
   
  People food
  
   Feeding your dog "people food," i.e., table scraps and such is a poor
   idea. First, you may encourage your dog to make a pest of itself when
   you are eating. Second, feeding a dog table scraps is likely to result
   in an overweight dog. Third, if your dog develops the habit of gulping
   down any food it can get, it may seriously poison or distress itself
   someday.
   
  Eating problems: gulping, etc.
  
   For a dog that gulps the food down so rapidly that gas is a result,
   you can slow down the rate of eating by putting large, clean rocks
   (3-4" diameter) in the dish along with the food.
   
  Home Cooking Food
  
   Cooking food for one's own dog is a trend that is increasingly
   popular. It is controversial, with some adherents claiming every kind
   of benefit possible and detractors pointing out problems. Whatever
   position one takes on this concept, it's clear that for the dog owner
   who wishes to proceed with, thorough research must be done. Tracy
   Landauer has kindly supplied a good overview. Please note that
   improper attention to the nutritional requirements of your dog will
   make him quite sick. This is not something to undertake lightly or on
   a whim:
   
   For anyone considering switching over to a raw diet, do your homework
   first; don't just jump in blindly.
   
   All of the books below should be available at either Amazon.com or
   Direct Book Services. Most folks start with the Pitcairn book. The
   first Billinghurst book spawned the unfortunate acronym, BARF (Bones
   And Raw Foods). Kymythy's book is also very easy to comprehend and use
   - she even includes charts and blank grocery lists. Goldstein's book
   is an excellent read.
     * Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats, by Dr. Richard
       Pitcairn, DVM
     * The Holistic Guide for a Healthy Dog, by Wendy Volhard
     * Reigning Cats and Dogs, by Pat McKay
     * Give Your Dog a Bone, by Ian Billinghurst (Australian vet)
     * Grow Your Pups on Bones, Billinghurst
     * The Natural Remedybook for Cats and Dogs, by Diane Stein
     * The Complete Herbal Handbook for Dogs and Cats, by Juliette de
       Baircli Levy
     * The Ultimate Diet, by Kymythy Schultze
     * The Nature of Animal Healing, by Martin Goldstein, DVM
       
   Wellpet is an email listserv dedicated to natural pet care and diets;
   warning, it's a high-traffic list, but for starters, their web site
   has a lot of the basics and great FAQs. Their web site would be the
   best place to get basic info about feeding raw and why. It's an
   inexact science, be warned. Subscription info there too. See
   http://www.listservice.net/wellpet/welcome.htm.
   
   There's also a discussion group on OneList called rawdiets, and
   another email list called K9 Cuisine.
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Incontinence

   The most common occurrence of incontinence is in the older spayed
   bitch. Most often this is due to a hormonal imbalance and as such is
   easily treated in one of two drugs. The traditional way is with doses
   of DES (estrogen). Typically, the dosage is varied until the
   incontinence stops, and often the dosage can be later reduced
   altogether. Another method of treatment is with phenylpropanolamine
   (PPA, brand name Dexatrim) which tightens all the muscles.
   
   DES replaces the hormones, restoring the hormonal balance. PPA works
   independently of the hormones and as such, may introduce new problems.
   Both drugs are known to cause problems and side effects, although
   typically, the level of dosage that DES is administered at for
   incontinence will not cause problems. At high dosages, DES is thought
   to be linked with breast cancer and obesity. Since PPA tightens all
   muscles in the body, it can potentially cause serious side effects,
   especially with the heart. There is speculation that PPA is often
   prescribed at dosages too high for dogs. In humans, PPA is not advised
   when thyroid levels are low; this might also be a problem with dogs.
   
   Which drug is safer for your particular spayed bitch depends on the
   particular dog and her particular veterinary history. What's best for
   one dog might be bad for another, depending on what other veterinary
   conditions or susceptibilities she has.
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Neutering

   If you are not planning to breed your pet or put it to stud service,
   or your dog's breeding days are over, you will want to neuter it.
   There are a number of health benefits associated with neutering, for
   either sex.
   
   Technically, the general term for either sex is neutering; bitches are
   spayed and dogs are castrated. However, general usage is that bitches
   are spayed or neutered and dogs are neutered.
   
   Neutering is *not* a solution to behavioral problems; training is.
   However with some dogs it can alleviate some factors that make it more
   difficult to train. But you cannot expect to neuter your dog and have
   it turn into an angel without any work.
   
     Tip: let your dog eliminate before taking it in and again after
     getting it back. Many dogs, especially crate-trained dogs, will not
     eliminate in the vet's kennels during their stay.
     
  Castration
  
   Dogs are castrated. A general anesthetic is administered, the
   testicles are removed (oriectomy) and several stitches are used to
   close it up. The scrotum will shrink and soon disappear after
   castration. You will want to neuter the dog around six months of age,
   although dogs can be neutered at any time after this. For example stud
   dogs are typically neutered after they are too old to breed, and they
   suffer no ill effects. Some clinics may use a local anesthetic
   instead.
   
  Spaying
  
   Bitches are spayed; this is an ovario-hysterectomy (uterus and ovaries
   are removed). She must be put under general anesthesia. A large patch
   of fur will be shaved (to prevent later irritation of the incision)
   off the lower abdomen. You may have to take your bitch back in to
   remove the stitches. From a health point of view, the earlier the
   bitch is spayed, the better. Ideally, she should be spayed before her
   first heat, this reduces the risk of reproductive and related cancer
   (e.g., breast cancer) later in life considerably; not to mention
   guaranteeing no unwanted puppies. The most dramatic rise in risk of
   cancer occurs after the second heat or two years of age, whichever
   comes first before spaying. After that, while the risk is high, it
   does not rise further.
   
  Post-op recovery
  
   You will need to watch to make sure your dog does not try to pull out
   its stitches, and consult your vet if it does. You might, in
   persistent cases, need to get an Elizabethan collar to prevent the
   animal from reaching the stitches. Puffiness, redness, or oozing
   around the stitches should be also reported to the vet. Some stitches
   "dissolve" on their own; others require a return to the vet for
   removal.
   
   For further information on how neutering may affect your dog, see the
   section on neutering in Assorted Topics.
   
  Cost
  
   The cost can vary widely, depending on where you get it done. There
   are many pet-adoption places that will offer low-cost or even free
   neutering services, sometimes as a condition of adoption. Local animal
   clinics will often offer low-cost neutering. Be aware that spaying
   will always cost more than castrating at any given place since spaying
   is a more complex operation. Vets almost always charge more than
   clinics, partly because of overhead, but also because they often keep
   the animal overnight for observation and will do free followup on any
   later complications. Larger animals will cost more than smaller ones.
   
   Pet Assistance has a program to help you locate low-cost neutering.
   There may be an 800 number, but the San Diego number is 619-697-7387.
   They can refer you to a veterinarian in your area who will perform
   low-cost spaying or neutering. Other low cost/coupon assistance:
   1-800-321-PETS; Pet Savers Foundation at 1-800-248-SPAY. Most vets
   honor these coupons.
   
  Effect on behavior
  
   There is an extensive discussion on the effect neutering has on a
   dog's behavior in the Assorted Topics chapter of the FAQ. In summary,
   no one really knows, and for every example presented, a
   counter-example can be made.
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Overheating

   Dogs are not as good as people in shedding excess heat. You should
   take general care during hot and summer weather that your dog does not
   get too hot. Make sure shade and water is available and that there is
   some fresh air. DO NOT LEAVE YOUR DOG IN A CAR on a hot day! Cars heat
   up much more quickly than you think and that one inch or so of open
   window will not help. If you park in the shade, the sun may move more
   quickly than you think. A water-filled pump sprayer can help keep your
   dog cool. But your best bet is to prevent overheating.
   
   Heatstroke is indicated by some or more of the following symptoms:
     * rapid or heavy breathing
     * bright red tongue
     * thick saliva
     * vomiting
     * bloody diarrhea
     * unsteadiness
     * hot, dry nose
     * legs, ears hot to touch
     * extreme: glassy-eyed, grey lips
       
   Wet the dog down gradually using cool, not cold water. Get it out of
   direct sunlight. Give it a little cool water to drink at a time. Cold
   compresses to the belly and groin helps. Get the dog to the vet. A dog
   that has had heatstroke before can be prone to getting it again.
     _________________________________________________________________
   
   Puberty
   
  Bitches
  
   In general, a bitch can start her first estrus, or "heat" between the

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