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positively identified. Like someone already mentioned,
you have to know if your rubber is in fact natural
rubber (and what kind of rubber it is), or if it's a
plastic synthetic. Whenever I need to cement something
(frequently some plastic thingy that I need to repair),
I usually just take it to a (plastics) shop, and let the
experts tell me what kind of cement I need for it.
Which glue is used to repair rubber?
Jeffrey Hurwit writes:
If you don't mind doing a little more research, and your
own simple chemistry, you could possibly make your own
(glue). Many rubber and plastic cements (eg. such as the
neoprene cement surfers and divers use to patch
wetsuits) are nothing more than some of the rubber or
plastic dissolved in an appropriate solvent. When
applied to the material to be bonded, the solvent eats
into and softens the surface, allowing it to integrate
with what's dissolved in the solvent. As the solvent
evaporates, the whole thing becomes bonded together.
So all you need to do is find out what is the solvent
for latex. If a shop that sells plastics and/or rubber
can't tell you, a chemistry prof at your local
university possibly could. A science librarian at a
college library could also possibly help you find out.
Tony@morgan.demon.co.uk (Tony Kidson) writes:
As an ex-chemist, I believe that Xylene is a good
solvent for this application.
Bill Lemieux writes:
Best-Test paper cement is a _latex_ based cement
available at art stores. Any other cement you can find
that contains latex as a binder, and heptane as the
solvent, will also work. You will also need to buy some
Bestine cement thinner. Thin the cement about 1:1- it
contains too little solvent as it comes in the can.
The basic operation is to clean both surfaces of your
seam (allow about 1/2" overlap for seams in most
material, perhaps 1/4" in only the thinnest latex), then
apply cement to both surfaces, and allow it to dry for
several minutes. Allow to dry in free air, without a
fan. Seam is ready to join when cement no longer appears
glossy, typically at_least five minutes. Do not attempt
to join immediately.
After joining the seam, use a narrow roller, such as a
nylon or wooden ink brayer, also available at art
stores, to roll the seam under high pressure. This is
necessary for a good strong joint.
Now the problems:
1. As soon as you put cement on the latex, the solvent
will swell the surface, causing a lot of curling.
This is impossible to prevent with any glue that
will make a decent joint. To make the latex
manageable, especially on curved seams, make a
clamping jig that is considerably longer than the
seams you'll want to glue. It can be made of wood,
or angle iron, so long as it will provide even and
complete compression, the length of the seam. Now,
clamp one end of the seam at one end, and stretch
the seam until it is straight, then close the jig
on it, holding it flat and stretched out. Too much
stretch will make the seam curl over. Now do the
same to the mating edge, and glue as above. I never
said it would be easy.
2. Heptane is incredibly bad for you, despite the fact
that it smell very nice, as solvents go. Use only
in a well ventilated area, and keep a fan (on slow)
at your back, to carry the fumes away from you.
Failing that, get and use a respirator mask that
will remove organic solvent vapors.
How to actually perform the act of repairing rubber/latex?
an68270@anon.penet.fi (Rubber Lover) writes:
The real trick invovles holding the seam together while
you glue the patch in and also in keeping the patch from
curling after you apply the cement. Here's how I've done
it repairs for over 25 years now...
You'll need to get rubber cement (Elmer's, etc.), rubber
cement thinner, acetone, drafting tape and pure talc.
Place the torn spot face up on a flat surface and work
the split area closed along its original lines. When the
tear is aligned place a strip of drafting tape over the
tear area to hold it togther.
*** NOTE ***
Use drafing tape instead of masking tape!!!
Drafting tape looks just like masking tape but
has a greatly reduced tack to it (it ain't as
sticky!).
Now place a strip of tape over your patch material (on
the shiny side) and you may now cut (with scissors) a
patch that will exactly cover the area to be repaired (I
always give about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch of coverage on
either side of the tear).
Next, lay the patch over the area to be glued and apply
a very small piece of tape to keep it aligned (Like a
hinge). Now lay the patch over to expose the gluing
surface. It helps to put some waxed paper under the
patch so that you don't slop glue onto areas not to be
patched. Pour some of the acetone onto a cloth and clean
the areas to be cemented. This includes the patch as
well. Do this in a ventilated area.
Thin a small quantity of the rubber cement by about half
with the cement thinner and apply it to both surfaces
(patch and patch area). Wait about two minutes or so
until the glue has dried (maybe longer) and then gently
roll the patch over the tear area.
Wait a few minutes before removing the tape but DO
remove the tape!
Sprinkle the patched area with talcum powder to kill the
tack of the remaining cement and voila'. Away you go.
Does sweat damage latex?
Yes and no. Sweat in itself contains body oil that like other oils
slowly disintegrates the material. But it needs time to perform
its corrosive deed and thus a simple rinsing with a mild dishwash
soap will clean it enough. Left to itself, the oil with either eat
through the material or cause it to harden and become fragile. But
the sweat from a days wear will not even begin to do any damage
before you remove the garment and rinse it, and thus may be
considered 'harmless'.
How do I measure the length of my feet to find the correct shoe size?
Tina H. writes:
Sitting on a chair, wearing your usual hosiery or socks,
place your foot on a plain piece of cardboard. Have
someone hold a different piece of cardboard vertically
at the heel, then draw a line where the two cardboard
pieces meet. Then hold the cardboard at the end of the
longest toe. Draw a line here as well. Now remove your
foot and measure the distance in centimeters or
millimeters between the two lines. Now consult the shoe
size conversion table in the next part of the FAQ.
How do you measure the height of a heel?
CyberQueen@cdspub.com (JoAnn Roberts) writes:
There are at least two different ways that manufacturers
measure the height of a heel.
The most common method is to measure from the base of
the heel to the point where the heel first meets the
sole, i.e. the inside edge of the heel. The height is
measured in eighths of an inch.
The other method used is to measure from the base
straight up the centerline of the heel until it
intersects the sole. This gives a slightly higher
measurement than the first method.
In either case, the actual increase in your height is
greater because you get elevated by the amount at the
back of the heel.
Also, the larger the shoe size the easier it is to wear
a higher heel. It's got to do with the triangle formed
by the heel height and length of the shoe. A smaller
size has a much steeper angle for the same heel height.
These answers are not definite nor complete. If you've got a better
answer (in your opinion), do send it to me along with your reason for
it. This is a section where your input is needed, so if you feel you've
got the answer or corrections/expansions to the answers to any of these
questions - send them to me!
2. Corsets 101.
------------
The following was written by Ms. Margo in response to a
letter from dq861@cleveland.Freenet.Edu (R. Thomas Haden),
both of whom has very kindly given me permission to publicise
it. If you find any errors or omissions in this segment,
please do post a follow-up. It will be appreciated.
The corset is a very old garment. If we use the term to loosely
describe a garment meant to constrict the waist of the wearer, then
there are examples of corsets depicted on statuettes from Minoan Crete
dating to approximately 1600 B.C. The corset as we know it today, with
its stays, busk, and laces, came into general vogue in the mid 1700's
and reached it's height of popularity at the turn of the century and
began to decline in the 1920's with the invention of camiknickers, the
forerunner of the modern teddy, and brassieres.
At the height of its popularity the corset was available in many
specialized forms. There were tennis corsets, swimming corsets, hip
corsets, electrical corsets, abdominal strengthening corsets, men's
corsets, training corsets (complete with crossing shoulder straps and
attachable thigh-high boots, to prevent the young trainee from removing
her corset), and amazingly, maternity corsets. There were several
magazines exclusively devoted to corset culture. Most notably among
them was "The Wasp", published in London. It was felt that corsets not
only molded a Lady's body, but also her character. It compressed her
waist, raised her bosom, flattened her stomach, rounded her hips,
straightened her back, lifted her head, shortened her steps to an
appropriate 12" gait, kept her from being wild and tomboyish in her
behavior, and "instilled a properly submissive attitude."
Where or whom would you recommend for custom work?
B.R. Creations
Post Office Box 4201
Mountain View, California 94040
U.S.A.
B.R. Creations is run by Ruth Johnson. She is very dedicated to
corsetry and makes the best corsets on American soil. (Actually,
she produces some of the only ones, but who's quibbling.) Her
corsets are meant for daily wear are very durable. She also
produces a corsetry newsletter that comes out four times yearly.
Her color catalog is $7.00 for the U.S. and Canada, $10 for
overseas. The Corset Newsletter (6 issues/year) is $18.00 for the
U.S. and Canada, $24.00 for overseas.
Several months ago, my fiance' and I purchased a Vollers corset (Deep
Waist Nipper). At the time, it was 4 inches smaller than her waist. She
has, however, recently lost weight to the extent that when fully laced,
the corset fits her normally. Rather, there is no body modification at
all.
You are correct about the 4" of reduction from the normal waist
measurement for a first corset. But given that she has now lost
enough weight that the corset no longer causes any body
modification, I would recommend a new corset with a 2" decrease
from her current laced waist.
Where would I go for a custom-job, and would we have to appear in
person, etc?
While it's wonderful to be able to be hand fitted for a corset, a
perfectly fitting corset can be made from measurements. B.R.
supplies an order form that specifies the measurements necessary
for the properly fitting corset. If you have a tape measure, you
can get a well fitting corset.
What are the customs for having a made-to-measure corset done?
Choose the style that you like from the several that they offer in
the catalog. Choose a fabric that suits your tastes and projected
uses for the corset. On request B.R. will supply samples of the
satins, brocades, cottons, leathers, and metallic leathers that
they use for their corsets. Choose any trim options that you wish,
such as satin or velvet edging, lace or ribbon overlay, rhinestone
trim, satin lining, or extra garters. Depending on the style and
fabrics you select, a custom made corset costs $150.00-$350.00
U.S. Measure carefully, and order your corset. It will take about
6-8 weeks to be made by hand and will be sent to you by post. If
you have any questions, contact them by mail or phone. They are
very knowledgeable and willing to help you.
What should the reduction measurements on the corsets be? I know that
4" for a first try is pretty standard from talking to makers, but how
does one get into advanced work and how far can one go?
Yes, a 4" reduction from the natural waist is recommended for your
first corset. (Before you start serious corsetry training, it is
recommended to lose excess weight.) When one trains down to the
point that the corset no longer fits snugly, a new corset should
be ordered with a reduction of 2" from the current laced waist.
The first 6" will go fairly quickly, but as a rule, further
reductions go much more slowly.
As you go further into waist training, you find that adjustments
have to be made in the lifestyle, especially in eating habits.
Meals will have to be much smaller and more frequent. Since the
corset compresses the intestines rather severely, a large heavy
meal will cause discomfort at best and serious pain at worst. It
is recommended to have 5-6 light meals, rather that the 3 large
meals most people eat, and to let out the laces a few inches
before eating - retightening an hour or so later. Since the
success of the training depends on the amount of time that a
corset is worn, rather than how tightly it is laced, sleeping will
be altered to include sleeping in the corset. Eventually only a
few hours a day for washing will be spent without the corset.
Rapidly lacing to a very small waist will appear to have the
quickest results, but it is the easiest way to actually harm your
body. It is much better to lace the corset snugly, but not
uncomfortably so, and wear it for a longer period of time.
How far can you trim a waist over time?
There are three schools of thought on how small a waist can be
achieved with tightlacing. One school says to target a waist that
is 10" smaller than the starting waist. So a woman with a 28"
waist could aim for an ultimate goal of 18". The other school says
that the waist should a fraction of the bust. The starting
reduction should be 3/4 of the bust measurement, a moderate
reduction should be 5/8 of the bust measurement, and the minimum
reduction for a decent Lady should be no less than 1/2 of the bust
measurement. So our woman with the 28" starting waist who has a
36" bust (approximately a 34B bra size) would start by aiming for
a waist of 27", train down to a waist of 22 1/2", and go no
smaller than a waist of 18". This method has the advantage of
working for a visually balanced figure. The final school says to
target a waist that is at the same size, or slightly smaller than
the measurement of the upper thigh. This method has the advantage
of being sensitive to the person's body 0weight and percentage of
body fat. If weight is gained or lost then the waist can be
targeted relative to the thigh measure.
The world's smallest waist belonged to Mrs. Ethel Granger
(deceased). At her ultimate her waist measured just 13". This took
a lifetime of work to achieve and she lived to the ripe old age of
77. However, her figure was so modified, with her lower ribs
collapsed, that few would find it attractive.
I've heard about serious back problems that are associated with
corsets, are there ways that these can be prevented that allow the fun
of corsets to be enjoyed?
If you have a properly fitting hourglass corset, then the amount
of pressure that is put on the lower back is reduced. A wasp-waist
or S- Curve corset will put more pressure on the spine and bend it
at severe angles. An hourglass or pipe-stem corset is designed as
a small hemisphere above a larger hemisphere, connected by a short
stem. A wasp-waist corset is designed as a small cone over a large
cone. An S-Curve, Gibson Girl, straightfront, or "ice cream cone"
corset is designed like an ice cream cone with the ice cream stuck
on the wrong end, with a small cone over a larger hemisphere.
These types of corsets have had various periods of popularity. To
properly wear a wasp-waist corset one must begin training in
adolescence, to prevent the rib cage from growing normally.
However, some tightlacers do wear them. But a properly fitting
corset should not be painful to wear.
My ASCII art skills are minimal, but I will attempt the drawings:
Hourglass:
( )
( )
( )
( )
( )
( ) <-----Normal Waistline
( )
( )
( )
( ) <-----Normal Hipline
( )
( )
Wasp-waist:
\ /
\ /
\ /
\ / <-----Elevated Waistline
/ \
/ \<-----Normal Waistline
/ \
/ \
/ \
/ \ <-----Normal Hipline
/ \
/ \
S-Curve:
\ /
\ /
\ /
\ /
\ /
\ / <-----Normal Waistline
( )
( )
( )
( ) <-----Normal Hipline
( )
( )
To keep the pressure on the lower back to a minimum have a well
fitting corset; this will help to support the body rather than
crimp it. Do not overlace it; pull the laces snug and tight, but
not uncomfortably so. If the compression is painful, unlace the
corset and start again. Do not lace it too rapidly; lace it snugly
and if necessary tighten the laces after the corset has been worn
for a few hours. Do not try to lace the corset tight in one pass;
tighten the laces in stages to allow your internal organs time to
adjust to the compression. Lace from both ends to the middle
pullers rather than from top to bottom; this will help to keep the
laces from sliding and also help to keep from overlacing the
bottom of the corset relative to the top. Do not try to force
positions that the corset will not allow. Especially harmful to
the back is bending forward from the waist. Instead, bend the
knees and reach down. Keeping your body in good shape will also
help to strengthen your back. You might want to start a regime of
"crunches" (not straight leg sit-ups) or other exercises that
strengthen the muscles of the abdomen and lower back. Eventually,
you'll feel more comfortable in your corset than out of it.
I can't find very much information on corsets. All help and any
knowledge you wish to give to me are appreciated!
I would recommend "Body Play" magazine to you. It is put out by
Fakir Musafar and almost every issue contains something about
corsetry or body modification. There is a nice series on corsets
that begins with issue #3. The Fakir is sometimes too much into
the Shamanism of body modification for my taste, but he is very
knowledgeable and writes well. There is also a nice article on
corsets in an S&M context in "Sandmutopia Guardian", issue #11.
Body Play
c/o Insight Books
Post Office Box 2575
Menlo Park, California 94026
U.S.A.
Subscriptions (4 issues/year) are $45.00 U.S. and Canada, $55.00
overseas. Back issues are $12.00 U.S. and Canada, $14.00 overseas.
Sandmutopia Guardian
Desmodus, Inc.
Post Office Box 410390
San Francisco, California 94141
U.S.A.
Subscriptions (6 issues/year) are $24.00 U.S. and Canada, $35.00
overseas. Order back issues from:
RoB, Inc.
24 Shotwell Street
San Francisco, California 94103
U.S.A.
3. Corsets - Embracing a labour of love.
-------------------------------------
The following was written by:
THOMAS B. LIERSE
PRESIDENT, LONG ISLAND STAYLACE ASSOCIATION
(AVOCATIONAL VICTORIAN AND EDWARDIAN CORSETRY)
Copyright (C) 1992 by Tes Staylace
Corset training is, by its nature and intended outcome, a "labour of
love". Without commitment, all efforts will fail.
One must remember the three components of successful figure training:
Diet, exercise, and the proper selection and use of the garment. The
diet component is interpretive: Other than the fact that special
attention should be paid to the waist area muscles, any regimen which
reduces body fat is satisfactory. It is important to remember that fat
exists on the inside of your body, as well as the outside, and hinders
the proper transit and relocation of internal organs during tightlacing
(It also simply takes up space, and the goal of corset training is to
reduce mass). Six meals, rather than the customary two per day, is
suggested. Obviously, these meals should be small, and consistent with
comtemporary healthy diet recommended.
Your first corset should be purchased in a size that is four inches
less than your measured girth; that is, CLOSED. The importance of
having your corsets professionally fitted, especially for training
purposes, cannot be overemphasized. Your comfort and health, to say
nothing of proper visual impact, DEPEND upon an exact fitting. In
addition, most chaffing can be avoided by wearing a properly sized
garment.
The key word in garment-size progression is "gradual". One wants to
treat oneself with love, and it takes TIME for a body to acclimate
itself to the strictures of tightlacing. These four inches should be
taken in slowly, day by day, or week by week if necessary. Once this
has happened, and one is comfortable, the next progression should be to
a garment a further four inches smaller--This may take two months or
six, depending on the trainee. The older corset should be used for
night confinement: One should almost ALWAYS be corsetted, except for
toilette ac- tivities. Never be without a corset for more than an hour.
If this is impossible, a wide training belt should be purchased--organ
and lower rib displacement is the goal and the body reacts well to
consistency. However, one must NEVER be uncomfortable, especially when
sitting (in a straight-backed chair, of course!).
You must pay special attention to your skin: The wearing of a corset
will of, course, deprive healthy skin of proper exposure to air
(oxygen). This will tend to dry it or, at times (depending on the
wearer) cause chaffing, especially if perspiration is present. Thus, it
is important to apply moisturizing oils or lotions to the skin at every
possible opportunity, followed by talc, especially if one has a
tendency to perspire excessively.
Care must also be paid in keeping the garment clean, as oil and
chemicals will tend to shorten its life. One of the more popular
devices used for such purpose is a sheath made of a material commonly
referred to as "bathing suit" cloth; these spandex-like tubes can
easily be fashioned and worn underneath the corset. Of course, you must
have a clean one for every new corsetted day! While many like the idea
of pretty lingerie underneath, be aware that corset pressure will tend
to stretch and/or rip delicate fabrics (the spandex tube, however, will
shrink to accommodate your ever-smaller stays!).
Efficient ways for donning your stays include the lacing bar, and
laying prone on the floor. Both these methods allow the waist to
contract to its smallest circumference, permitting easier application
of the garment. Also bear in mind that it is possible for you (with
practice) to put on your own corset, without assistance, after you are
down to your desired girth. However, it is recommended that you employ
a SENSITIVE partner to help you during training, as the rigor can be
demanding. Remember that only the person inside a corset truly knows,
from moment-to-moment, the effects of the lacing.
A well-made corset will be sold with an insert, generally made of the
same material as the garment itself, which will fit under the lacing,
to prevent binding of the skin as the laces are pulled closed.
So far as choice of materials for a corset, one will find that various
types fulfill various requirements. For instance, a leather corset will
mold easily to the body and breathe, while a latex or hard rubber
garment will induce perspiration, which, for some, provides an
excellent way to spur on weight loss. However, the average person will
find a cotton or coutil garment (perhaps with an overlay of brocade or
silk to add spice and sexiness) to be quite satisfactory. One should
just keep in mind that most garments, regardless of material, require a
"breaking-in" period of several wearings.
Most corsets come with cotton lacings. I recommend they be replaced
with the stronger (and less bulky) nylon version.
A well-constructed garment, especially one made for training, will have
double-stays (the sprung-metal rods sewn into the corset vertically at
regular intervals all round). In addition, a strong cloth "ribbon",
usually sewn into the interior, should circle the corset horizontally
from the lacingstay to the frontbusk (a busk being a much wider stay
which anchors the front hook-and-eye clo- sure). This feature
strengthens the corset and aids in the prevention of tearing.
Those who value posture training while preparing for a small waist
might also consider optional shoulder-straps. These will hold the
shoulders back and, thus, the head erect. Of course, a matching laced
"neck-corset" achieves the same end with more aesthetic quality.
The effect of a tightly-laced corset is further enhanced by the wearing
of high-heeled shoes, even while training. These tend to thrust the
body forward, providing a visually pleasing balance to the your picture
of loveliness.
A tiny waist is a wonder to behold - exotic artistry of the female
form; the end-result of such diligent training is highly satisfying.
But the pride of knowing that one is capable of the self-discipline to
accomplish such a feat is reward unto itself!
4. Jessica - Wearing high heels for an extended period of time.
------------------------------------------------------------
Through a friend on the net I heard about this now 24 year old woman
named Jessica who's been wearing 4"-5" heels for the past 10 years or
so, more or less non-stop. I got in touch with her and she didn't mind
sharing her footwear experiences with us. I've edited some of her
replies to my queries into a whole which follows below - mostly in her
own words:
I started wearing them when I was about 15. I started and
refused to wear anything else because I wanted to get used to
them. After about a year it was difficult to flatten my foot
so I just wore heels always instead. After about 3 years I
couldn't wear anything lower than 4" or it would really
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