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 Mongolia Frequently Asked Questions Version 7 (July 7th, 2000)

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  consonant (or `initial') of the syllable had to be pronounced in a
  velar manner of not. The most important document written with Chinese
  characters is the Secret History of the Mongols. It was an achievement
  of the late 19th and the early 20th century to decypher the text and
  restore its original Mongolian shape. The problems linked to this work
  are manyfold: One has to understand Early Mandarin (the name of the
  specific form of Chinese used for this script) phonology, and one has
  to understand words which appear only in this text but no other
  source, not even the famous Hua Yi Yi Yu or Barbarian Glossaries,
  Chinese dictionaries of the Middle Ages dealing with a number of
  Central and North-East Asian languages.  The most promiment scholars
  contributing to the understanding of these texts were the Japanese K.
  Shiratori, the German E. Haenisch, the Japanese Hattori, to name just
  a few.

  Using Chinese characters for writing Mongolian had the big advantage
  that a message encoded in this system was obscure to a Chinese
  messenger but perfectly transparent to a Mongolian listener.  Despite
  this advantage of privacy, the system ceased to be used in the early
  14th century.


  3.8.3.3.  Mongolian Writing: Phagsba

  The Phagsba or Square Writing was developed in the 13th century by a
  famous Tibetan monk and scholar, Phagsba. Designed as the Unified
  Writing of the Yuan (emphasis through capitalisation added by OC), it
  combined the features of Tibetan (e.g., rich consonant inventory) with
  the features of Chinese (vertical writing direction) and Mongolian
  (additional vowels were provided). Despite its functionality, it could
  not establish itself properly and came largely out of use after the
  fall of the Yuan dynasty.

  The Phagsba or Square Writing is a valuable research tool because 14th
  century dictionaries give us a deep insight in the phonetics and
  phonology of Mongolian (and, by the way, Chinese) of those days.


  3.8.3.4.  Mongolian Writing: Soyombo

  Another writing the design of which was politically motivated was the
  Soyombo script designed by the monk and scholar Zanabazar in 1686. It
  is of intriguing beauty and complexity yet never really succeeded as
  script for everyday use. The only symbol of that script which can be
  seen literally everywhere is the Soyombo symbol. More about the
  Soyombo script and symbol can be found at the Soyombo Script page of
  Infosystem Mongolei.


  3.8.3.5.

  Mongolian Writing: Horizontal Square, or Xäwtää Dörwöljin

  Zanabazar created a second writing system which looks very much like a
  horizontal version of the Phagsba script, and indeed it shares the
  same Tibetan roots. Horizontal Square Writing has a close resemblance
  to many Tibetan characters, and similar to the Soyombo alphabet, it
  shows the same typical arrangement of short and long vowels, together
  with basically the same order of consonants.

  Only a few documents in Horizontal Square Writing have survived, and
  the script was never popularized.



  3.8.3.6.  Mongolian Writing: Tibetan


  In the last centuries, monks at the Gandan monastery in Ulaanbaatar
  used Tibetan letters to  write Mongolian texts, thus continuing
  Phagsba's and Zanabazar's tradition with simplified means: they did
  not create an extra alphabet which was based on Tibetan principles,
  they directly used the Tibetan letters to spell out Mongolian words.

  Documents surviving contain several Tibetan-Mongolian dictionaries of
  religous terms.


  3.8.3.7.  Mongolian Writing: Cyrillic

  In 1940, The then Mongolian People's Republic started using a modified
  Cyrillic alphabet which was extended by two vowel symbols, ö and ü,
  the female counterparts of [o] and [u]. The orthography of Cyrillic
  Mongolian is based on the Xalx dialect. Despite a few orthographic
  instabilities, the Cyrillic system is the major vehicle of written
  communication today in Mongolia; virtually all newspapers, book etc.
  are printed in Cyrillic letters. Since the system is based on the Xalx
  dialect, it is not as transparent for speakers from other Mongolian
  areas if compared with the Classical script; on the other hand, the
  clearly phonemical notation makes it easy to understand written
  materials read aloud, and it allows easy searching of dictionaries.
  Despite the strong political overtones around its inception in the
  1940s, the Cyrillic writing has proven to be useful and practical. Due
  to its structural similarity to Latin, the Cyrillic script could be
  integrated into the world of modern information technology (printing
  equipment, data interchange, computing, etc.)  which further promoted
  the solid standing of Cyrillic writing in present day's Mongolia.




  3.9.  Is Mongolian easy to learn?

  From the introduction about the Mongolian language we can draw the
  following conclusions on whether Mongolian is or is not easy to learn.

  Since it is an SOP language its grammar may pose problems to speakers
  of most European languages and Chinese. It should however be much
  easier for learners with a background in Japanese, Korean, Turkish,
  Manchu or similar languages.

  Since the assumptions on word classes ('parts of speech') sometimes
  differs thoroughly from most Indo-European languages, problems may
  arise in this field (When does an ``adjective'' need declension? Is it
  really what we call an adjective?).

  The pronounciation does not pose enormous difficulties.  Although
  there are no completely unfamiliar sounds for speakers of most other
  languages tutoring is strongly recommended during the initial phase of
  acquiring phonetics and phonology.

  The Classical writing system should be learned under a teacher's or
  tutor's guidance - it is sometimes a bit tricky to master it on one's
  own. The number of language training materials is not overwhelming,
  dictionaries are only available for a few languages (notably Russian,
  Chinese and English; but also German and Japanese. See the document by
  Christopher Kaplonski and Oliver Corff: SROMDIC - Suggested Readings
  on Mongolia - Dictionaries in Infosystem Mongolei) The final key to
  success is practice, practice, practice. Expose yourself to as much
  printed and audio material as possible.



  3.10.  Are the Mongolian dialects an obstacle for the foreigner learn­
  ing Mongolian?

  The language[s] in Mongolia and Southern Mongolia are virtually the
  same: Mongolian is spoken in Mongolia and Southern Mongolia, but it is
  spoken in its Xalx (Khalkha) form in Mongolia but spoken in its Chahar
  (Cahar) dialect form in Southern (Inner) Mongolia. Besides Chahar,
  there are other dialects: Alashan in the western regions of Southern
  Mongolia, and the forms spoken in Hulunbuir (eastern part of Southern
  Mongolia). Nonetheless, Chahar is the quasi-standard of Southern
  Mongolia.

  Differences can be found in lexicon, pronounciation and grammar. The
  differences in lexicon differs mostly in the realm of foreign loans:
  Chinese words are more popular in Southern Mongolia (e.g. biyanji for
  editor) which is redaktor in Russian-influenced Xalx; both try to re-
  introduce the genuinely Mongolian term nairuulagq.  Other words,
  especially of theoretical and political nature, are often formed after
  completely different roots.

  The pronounciation differs in the case that some sounds which were not
  separated in the Classical Mongolian writing (like z) are now
  pronounced like z in Mongolia and j in Southern Mongolia. This is a
  general rule which is influenced by the following vowel, i.e.  whether
  a i or something different follows.

  Grammar is occasionally distinct because elder forms are sometimes
  preserved in Southern Mongolian speech.

  In general, it is not too difficult to speak Xalx in Southern Mongolia
  since Xalx is recognized as the prestigious lingua franca of the
  International Mongol community. It is however slightly more difficult
  to understand Chahar if one has only enjoyed Xalx training.

  The differences are aggravated by the usage of different writing
  systems. Southern Mongolia keeps using the Classical Mongolian writing
  (which is very conservative, also for the grammatical endings of verbs
  etc.) while in Mongolia in the 1940s an extended Cyrillic alphabet was
  introduced. The extensions were necessary to accommodate the Mongolian
  vowels ö and ü which are usually indicated by two dots over o and u in
  transliterations.


  4.  Mongolia - Administrative


  4.1.  I want to study in Mongolia. Where do I establish contact?

  Contact your university. They may already have an exchange program
  with Mongolia without your knowledge. If this fails, contact your
  national academic exchange service (e.g. the DAAD in Germany or the
  JFPS in Japan).





  4.2.  Where do I establish first contact?  I want to work in Mongolia,
  e.g. teach a foreign language.

  Here as above it is recommended to contact your university or your
  national academic exchange service.  You are strongly discouraged to
  go to Mongolia posing as a foreign language teacher if you are not one
  for purposes other than teaching, e.g. missionary work. While in the
  beginning of the 1990s it was still possible to do so, anyone not
  being sent by an acknowledged academical institution or governmental
  body must now show certificates proving his/her qualification as a
  teacher.

  In addition, every foreigner staying within Mongolia for more than a
  month has to register with police.  In case of foreign experts,
  foreign personnel etc.  the employer or host will certainly assist.
  Not registering has consequences when leaving the country. Regularly
  you get fined (anything near USD100.--) and you may risk missing your
  plane/train. You may even appear with your nationality and name
  spelled out in full in a newspaper article.  Not registering is not
  worth the trouble.





  4.3.  I want to study in Inner Mongolia. Where do I establish contact?

  The answer here is the same as above. Only one difference must be
  observed: Politically being a part of China, all programs dealing with
  Inner Mongolia are usually in the Chinese section or department.




  4.4.  Where do I establish first contact?  I want to work in Inner
  Mongolia, e.g. teach a foreign language.

  The answer here is the same as above. Only one difference must be
  observed: Politically being a part of China, all programs dealing with
  Inner Mongolia are usually kept in the Chinese section or department
  of the exchange organization or university.




  4.5.  I want to travel to Mongolia. What kind of travel documentation
  do I need?

  You must obtain a visa at a Mongolian embassy or consulate. (See below
  for a list of embassies / consulates). In order to obtain a visa for
  stays of one month or longer you must produce an invitation issued by
  a) a Mongolian private person or b) a Mongolian institution. This may
  be a university.

  It is principally possible to apply for a visa directly at the airport
  Buyant-Uxaa, at least when flying in from Beijing. The applicant
  should carry an invitation (see above) and is usually only granted a
  stay of one month. Two passport photographs are required and USD 50.--
  are levied.

  Once you have entered Mongolia various regulations on registering with
  police may apply depending on the length and nature of your stay.
  Registration is mandatory when staying for longer than one month.  It
  is more than highly recommended to observe the registration procedure
  since you may risk being denied exit from the country upon presenting
  your passport at the airport without the proper police registration
  stamps. You also risk being fined somewhere in the area of USD 100.--
  upon exiting Mongolia when disobeying the registration rule. You may
  even risk being mentioned in a newspaper article on foreigners
  violating Mongolian laws (like: Önöödör, Jan. 6, 2000, p. 6: Gadaadyn
  79 Irgän juram zörqjää).

  Persons staying on official visa (category ``A'') should turn to their
  official host (university, government ministry, etc.)  for assistance.
  For details, ask your Mongolian embassy when receiving the visa.

  The registration is done at the National Civilian Information and
  Registration Centre (Irgädiïn Mädäälliïn Bürtgäliïn Ulsyn Töw,
  abbreviated IMBUT) in the North of Ulaanbaatar at Zuun Aïlt. Every
  taxi driver knows this place name.

  Registration requires paying 500.-- Tugrik at the bank counter (Golomt
  Bank), ground floor. Then proceed to room 303 on the third floor,
  exchange your payment coupon against a form to fill in (asking your
  name, host institution, address in Mongolia, etc.) which must be
  filled in and handed to another counter in the same room. Do not
  forget to bring your passport and one photograph with you. The
  assistance of a Mongolian friend or colleague is invaluable in case
  language capabilities are overstretched when filling in the Mongolian
  form, which features, by the way, a question concerning the
  applicant's Mongolian language skills.



  4.6.  I want to travel to Inner Mongolia. What kind of travel documen­
  tation do I need?

  You need a visa issued by the authorities of the People's Republic of
  China. Once in China (and Inner Mongolia) you'll be requested to
  register at a hotel etc. by using the forms available there. Various
  other procedures may apply depending on length and nature of your
  stay.




  4.7.  I want to travel to Buryatia. What kind of travel documentation
  do I need?

  You need a visa issued by the authorities of the Russian Federation.
  Contact your local (usually former USSR) embassy.




  4.8.  I want to travel to Kalmykia. What kind of travel documentation
  do I need?

  You need a visa issued by the authorities of the Russian Federation.
  See above.




  4.9.  Where is the nearest embassy / consulate of Mongolia?

  There are not so many Mongolian embassies and consulates.  Most of
  them are accredited for several countries. The following list is very
  incomplete and remains to be completed with the readers' help.

  Since it is helpful to use a travel agency's services when applying
  for a visa this list contains also some information about travel
  agents. If you miss your favourite agent here then you can send the
  address to Infosystem Mongolei. The selection here is purely
  ``global'' (whatever is submitted gets published).

  Please note that the addresses, telephone numbers etc.  could not
  always be verified and counter-checked. They may be subject to change
  without notice. The editor of this FAQ tries to maintain all
  information in a state as correct as possible but relies on the
  contributors' accuracy.

























































  Mongolian Embassy in Australia
  There is no embassy in Australia. Australia is
  covered by the Mongolian Embassy in China, Beijing.


  Honorary Consul in Austria
  Mr. Johannes Stiedl
  Anhofstr. 65-67
  A-1130 Wien
  Tel.: ++ 43 1 8773353
                   1724
                   5661


  Mongolian Embassy in China
  No. 2 Xiu Shui Bei Jie
  Jian Guo Men Wai District
  Beijing
  Tel.: ++ 86 10 6532 1203
  Fax : ++ 86 10 6532 5045


  Mongolian Embassy in France
  5, Av. R. Schuman
  Paris
  Tel.: (+33) 1 46 05 30 16    or
        (+33) 1 46 05 23 18



  Mongolian Embassy in Germany
  Siebengebirgsblick 4
  53844 Troisdorf
  Tel.: 02241-402727


  Außenstelle der Mongolischen Botschaft in Berlin
  Gotlandstr. 12
  10439 Berlin
  Tel.: 030-4469320
                 21


  Honorary Consul in Hong Kong
  Mr. Kwok Shiu Ming
  4 Sommerset Toad, Kowloon
  Hong Kong
  Tel.: ++ 852 338 9034
  Fax : ++ 852 338 0633


  Honorary Consul in Italy
  Mr. Aldo Colleoni
  viale XX Settembre, 37
  34126 Trieste
  Tel.:  040-362241
  Fax    040-363494
  telex  461138 CONMON1.


  Mongolian Embassy in Japan
  Pine Crest Mansion
  21-4, Kamiyamacho
  Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150
  Tel.: 03-3469-2088

  Mongolian Embassy in New Zealand
  New Zealand Embassy and Ambassador in Beijing are
  credited for NZ foreign affairs to Mongolia, while
  Mongolian embassies in Tokyo or Beijing handle
  matters between Mongolia and NZ. See China.


  Mongolian Embassy in Poland
  Ambasada Mongolii
  ul. Rejtana 15 lok. 16
  Warszawa
  POLAND

  Tel./Fax: +48-22-484264


  Mongolian Embassy in the United Kingdom
  7 Kensington Court
  LONDON
  W8 5DL
  Tel: (0171) 937 5238
  Tel: (0171) 937 0150


  Mongolian Embassy in the USA
  2833 M Street, NW
  Washington, DC
  Tel: 202-333-7117


  Honorary Consul in Switzerland
  Stephan Bischofberger
  P.O.Box 173
  Limmatstr. 35
  8005 Zürich
  Fax : ++ 1 272 7924
  Tel.: ++ 1 272 4005

  According to the Swiss electronic telephone directory ETV,
  Mr. Bischofberger seems to be in charge of a travel
  agency named `Discovery Tours'.



  * Selected Travel Agents *


  Mongolian Tourism Corporation of America
  A joint venture between Zhuulchin
  and an American travel agency.
  Princeton Corporate Plaza
  1 Deer Park Drive, Suite M
  Monmouth Junction, NJ 08852
  Tel.: ++ 1 908-274-0088


  NOMADIC EXPEDITIONS
  (This one seems to have contact with Zhuulchin, too)
  Princeton Corporate Center
  5 Independence Way, Suite 300
  Princeton, NJ 08540


  BOOJUM Expeditions
  14543 Kelly Canyon Road
  Bozeman, MT 59715 USA
  Toll-Free- US and Canada  1-800-287-0125
  Tel.: ++ 1 406-587-0125
  Fax : ++ 1 406-585-3474
  Boojum@delphi.com
  boojum@mcn.net

  BOOJUM Expeditions has two URL's:
  http://www.boojumx.com   or
  http://www.gorp.com/boojum/boojum.htm


  NOMADIC JOURNEYS Ltd
  P.O. Box 479
  Ulaanbaatar 13
  Tel/fax:  +976 1 323043
  Which can be reached from June to mid September every year.
  In the winter period reservations for tour operators and
  groups are with Jan Wigsten in Gotland:

  Eco Tour Production Ltd
  Burge i Hablingbo
  620 11 Havdhem
  Gotland, SCHWEDEN.
  tel 0498 487105
  fax +46 498 487115
  e-mail: janw.nomadic@gotlandica.se


  Nature Tour, PO Box 49/53, Ulaanbaatar
  or Baga Toiruu-10, Mongolian Youth Federation Bldg, Room 212
  Tel: 312392
  Fax: 311979

  They arrange for jeeps and drivers for those wanting to
  explore the country. Also, they run a ger hostel near Hara Horen.
  Mykel Board stayed there. It's somewhat expensive (about USD
  50.-- a day) but includes all meals and local sight-seeing.



  Beyond the range of the official state travel agency Zhuulchin there
  are now numerous private agencies operating in Mongolia. Their
  addresses are occasionally hard to come by but a good source is the
  World Tourism Handbook.



  5.  Mongolia - Tourism


  5.1.  How to travel to Mongolia?

  The principal ways to Mongolia are by train and by air.  The capital
  of Mongolia, Ulaanbaatar, is connected via the Transmongolian Railway
  to China and Buryatia. In Ulan Ude, capital of Buryatia, the
  Transsiberian Railway (leading from Moscow to the Russian Far East,
  Khabaravosk, Nakhodka etc.) connects to the Transmongolian Railway.
  Trains from Moscow to Beijing run once a week in each direction and
  take about five days for the whole trip.  There are also `local
  trains' between Irkutsk (Ärxüü) and Ulaanbaatar which take about 24
  hours one way.   Similar local trains run between Ulaanbaatar and
  Beijing.  Since the Transmongolian Railway sports only one track this
  is a bottleneck for railway traffic which results in these one
  train/week schedules.  Prices for train tickets vary between USD 200
  and USD 500.  It is not possible to state any exact amount because
  prices fluctuate, the currency exchange rates vary daily and pricing
  policies create different price tags depending on where the tickets
  are purchased.  The second feasible way to enter Mongolia is by air.
  Air transport is available between Buyant Uxaa (the international
  airport of Ulaanbaatar) and Beijing as well as Irkutsk, the latter
  with a weekly connect flight to Moscow (or should I say, it's a weekly
  flight to Moscow with a stop-over in Irkutsk?). These lines are served
  throughout the whole year. In summer, there are additional flights to
  Huhhot (Inner Mongolia) and Japan, the latter being served on a
  somewhat irregular basis.  Past experience has shown that these links
  were just chartered flights without a genuine ``schedule'' in the
  sense of the word. There are about four to six international passenger
  flights per week connecting Ulaanbaatar and the rest of the world.
  Links to other Central Asian regions are under consideration or
  offered on a seasonal basis such as a flight between Almaty /
  Kazakhstan and Mongolia. A new route has recently been opened between
  Buyant Uxaa and Seoul, Korea (spring 1996). The latest developments
  (fall 1996) include an air link between Buyant Uxaa / Ulaanbaatar and
  Germany, Berlin Schoenefeld (code SXF - important because there are
  two other public airports in Berlin: Tegel (TXL) and Tempelhof (THF)).
  The flights are scheduled on a weekly basis (Sunday: OM135 goes to
  Berlin, OM136 returns to Ulaanbaatar). There is a stop-over in
  Shcheremetyevo/Moscow and occasionally a fuel refill in Nowosibirsk.
  Prices for the return ticket start from appr. USD 700.-- (in winter)
  when bought in Berlin.

  Only the prices on the Ulaanbaatar / Beijing route are fairly
  constant: around USD 200.-- for a one-way ticket.  For almost all
  other destinations there are wildly varying ticket prices depending on
  where the ticket is bought and whether the client is entitled to
  special reductions (like being an official student at the Mongolian
  National University).




  5.2.  What kind of accommodation is available in Mongolia?

  In Ulaanbaatar there are some big hotels. One of them is a monument to
  Soviet-style luxury and lavishness: The ``Ulaanbaatar Zoqid Buudal''.
  Located next to the central square, it is ideal for travellers with a
  not so restricted budget. Price tags start at USD 60.- (or so) and the
  two dining rooms are frequently used by external guests when every
  other supply of food in Ulaanbaatar collapses. The next important
  hotel (near the Bogd Gegen Palace) is the Bayangol which was
  thoroughly revamped in 1992. Similar standard. The ``Chinggis Khan
  Hotel'' in Sansar (a district name in Ulaanbaatar) has been ``due to
  open soon'' since 1991 but did not do so until 1995. It used to be
  ``under construction'' and was temporarily managed by the Holiday Inn
  group, a Korean group (Lotte, I think) until it was finally taken over
  by a Mongolian enterprise. It offers good Western food and is
  virtually empty so that you can enjoy a very calm meal there. Service
  used to be good in the opening year as part of the personnel was
  trained in Munich, Germany, but has deteriorated significantly
  recently.

  Small hotels for the traveller with a tight budget include the
  ``Stroitel'' (Russian: construction worker) which is north of the Ix
  Toïrog (Great Ring) Road close to the smaller monastery. A Mongolian-
  Chinese joint venture is the ``Manduhai'' hotel near the Ix Dälgüür
  (Department Store). Clean rooms, simple furniture, but nice atmosphere
  and acceptable price tag. Other private hotels keep opening with the
  rise of the private sector. These offer similar prices (sometimes
  starting with USD 10.-- / day for a complete little flat) but the
  situations keeps changing so it is difficult to give names and
  addresses here.  New hotels open constantly; a nice choice is the
  ``Flower Hotel'' which is the former ``Altai Zoqid Buudal''. It is
  under Japanese management now.


  In the countryside the situation looks different. In the tourist spots
  there are ger camps with a complete infrastructure (restaurant gers,
  shower facilities etc.)  and they are quite convenient because they
  ensure a minimum of reliability for the traveller. Some of these camps
  are still operated by Juulqin while new camps are operated by private
  companies. Once leaving the tourist paths the situation again looks
  different. It is possible to ask at people's homes (= gers) but one
  may be turned away (already too many people staying there). Prepare
  for a long demarche to the ``neighbour'' (maybe 50 or 100 kilometers
  (30 to 60 miles). Never, never forget to bring a reasonably useful and
  valuable gift. Useful and valuable gifts include tobacco, vodka, snuff
  bottles, snuff tobacco and other objects.

  When staying at somebody's gär then stick to the following minimal
  rules regardless how friendly people may appear to you:


  1. Check carefully whether your potential host is capable at all of
     accommodating another guest. In order to find out, you can check
     for the number of family members, the situation of the animals,
     etc.

  2. Never stay longer than one day.

  3. Never refuse ceremonial offerings of tea even if it is salty, etc.

  4. Roll down the sleeves of your shirt/coat no matter which
     temperature it is. If it is summer and you (and Mongolians) wear a
     t-shirt, then pretend to roll down your sleeves symbolically when
     being offered food and drink.

  5. Never accept any offering of food, drink etc. with your left hand.
     Both hands is best.

  6. If there is only a well, not a river nearby, never abuse it as a
     bathtub. Water in general and wells in particular are precious in
     this country.

  7. When bringing your own food or drink never forget to offer it to
     everybody. Never attempt to munch your biscuits secretely. If you
     can't resist eating your own biscuits then wait until you are on
     the road again.

  8. Perhaps last in this list, but not least: Show due respect to the
     dogs and animals of your host. The dog will only respect you if
     advised by his master to do so.  Mongolian dogs are no pets!



  5.3.  What kind of transport is available in Mongolia?


  5.3.1.

  Transport in Ulaanbaatar


       ``In UB, you can walk, ride the bus, or flag down a private
       vehicle and negotiate a price. No taxis. I was fairly insu­
       lated from that, as my cousin has a car. But I did a lot of
       walking anyway, because I like to walk and the city is a
       convenient one to walk in. Most of the hotels are near the
       center of the city, as are many of the sights. The exception
  is the big market, which runs on Wednesdays, Saturdays and
  Sundays - it's a bit of a hike from downtown.'' (Quoted from
  Peter Crandall's Mongolia Travelogue)


  Besides that, Ulaanbaatar sports numerous public bus lines which are
  usually more than crowded but offer about the cheapest rides in the
  world even though the prices went up by a factor of 100 from 1991 to
  1995: In 1990, a bus ticket was 0.50t, while in September 1996 it was
  50t.  Bus tickets are now priced 100t.

  Peter Crandall's observations on taxis are superseded by end of 1999.
  There is now a taxi service with bright yellow cabs of Korean origin.
  The company, City Taxi, can be reached with the telephone number
  343433 and accepts reservations at any time. The price per kilometer
  is 280t. Most drivers have a mobile phone. It is helpful to record the
  driver's phone number in case the reservation desk does not answer.

  Flagging down a private car is certainly recommended for all ad hoc
  transport in Ulaanbaatar as it is faster than calling a taxi first.
  The kilometer is charged with 300t.

  It is always good to know the words for left, right and straight ahead
  in Mongolian (züün gar tiïsh, baruun gar tiïsh, qiïgäärää) when
  directing the driver. Ulaanbaatar does not have many named streets,
  and addresses are usually given by land marks (see the MobiCom address
  above which was given as ``behind the Central Post Office''), or in
  the case of residential buildings, by district and building number.


  5.3.2.

  Transport outside Ulaanbaatar

  Travelling to the country requires going by MIAT, the national air
  line carrier, or renting a jeep. MIAT flights are fairly irregular
  (usually only once a week per direction) and may be cancelled
  completely for lack of gasoline or bad weather. It may happen that you
  take a flight to Uws and cannot return for 8 weeks. Renting a jeep is
  fairly inexpensive and usually includes a driver who is indispensable
  because this man usually knows the way in the endless steppe. He also
  has the technical skill to cross rivers, sand dunes etc. A ``Camel
  Trophy'' - commercial-like driving style may ruin vehicle and
  passengers.

  In the areas closer to Ulaanbaatar (within a 500-km or 300 miles
  range) there are busses available. Their departure takes place in
  front of the Museum of Fine Arts downtown Ulaanbaatar.




  5.4.  Which season is recommended for travelling?

  Summer is beautiful but short. Winter is not recommended if you go
  beyond Ulaanbaatar. Living conditions and road conditions are at least
  uncomfortable, nutrition and all related resources become too scarce.
  Storms in winter are especially dangerous for hikers outdoors, and
  even a short sightseeing trip in the close vicinity of Ulaanbaatar,
  like Zuun Mod with its famous monastery Manjshiriïn Xiïd, might yield
  one or the other frost bite.

  A good start is in May. It is still cold but the overwhelming beauty
  of spring, the mild fragrance of blossoms and the fresh smell of water
  offer experiences which one will never forget.

  5.5.  What are the points of sightseeing, museums etc.?

  Mongolia is a country rich in natural beauty which includes a wide
  range of different types of landscape on her vast territory.  From the
  Gobi desert in the south to the pristine waters of Lake Xöwsgöl in the
  north, from the grasslands of the east to the Altai mountain range in
  the west there is something for every traveller who loves nature.

  For those interested in culture and religion, there are numerous
  museums in Ulaanbaatar:

  ·  Natural history museum,

  ·  geological museum,

  ·  hunting museum,

  ·  historical museum: the former revolutionary museum - it now hosts
     an extensive exhibition focussing on the years of reform, 1989-1991
     and a beautiful collection of Mongolian garments,

  ·  fine arts museum: with some fine pieces of religious silk painting
     --- thankas,

  ·  Choijil Monastery: located in the centre of Ulaanbaatar, this
     former monastery is now the home of the priceless sculptures
     crafted by the famous monk, politian, sculptor and philologist
     Zanabazar;

  ·  Bogd Khan Museum: the palace of the last dynastic ruler of
     Mongolia; and

  ·  municipial museum: the first seat of the Revolutionary Party in
     Ulaanbaatar, now sporting a collection of exhibits related to the
     history of Ulaanbaatar as well as a display of diplomatic gifts
     from former socialist brother states.

  The universities have some permanent faculty exhibitions which are
  often worth visiting. Most Aimag capitals have their own local natural
  history museum. Xar Xorin has a temple museum about Chingis Khan and
  the buddhist oriented spiritual history of Mongolia. This list does
  not claim to be complete.

  Main points of interest outside Ulaanbaatar include the former Capital
  Xar Xorin (Kara Korum, or ``Black Fortress'', derived from the word
  ``xäräm'') and Manjshiriïn Xiïd in Zuun Mod, Central Aimag.

  Only two or so of the over 700 monasteries survived the Stalinist
  purges of 1937/1938.  One of them is the Gandan monastery in
  Ulaanbaatar which recently underwent major reconstruction, and the
  other one is situated within the walls of the Xar Xorin compound.

  Manjshiriïn Xiïd is the monastery dedicated to the protector goddess
  of Mongolia, Manjushri. The ruins of the monastery, situated in a
  valley at the south slope of Bogd Uul mountain, are a silent witness

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